JoeH

Minor point to make on this: as the power steering pump on these is mounted directly to the engine, either bolted to the timing cover or bolted onto the back of the air compressor, the reason for the 15w40 is incase the power steering pump seal fails it doesn't blow ATF into your engine. As a dealer employee I bet you could imagine the warranty headache this would cause if the engine seals failed because ATF got in there from a bum vendor add-on.

Need more people like this in Congress. Trouble with making her VP, some lefty tart is going to fill her role in Congress.

Scoring it you more or less guarantee it's going to break, unless your driver is smooth. But if you have a problematic driver like my brothers seemed to be you gotta do what you have to do...

Emergency knob is probably the right spot for the switch. It should kick the lights on in an emergency braking event. Your truck was set up for a trailer so you have 2 or 3 knobs, whereas mine had always been a straight truck til we slapped a 5th wheel on it as a yard truck for retirement. We ripped the lift axle out from under the truck and repurposed the "down" switch through a tractor protection valve to run the trailer airlines.

1980 dm686sx Low air buzzer is one of these 2^^ I think this one is Service brake lights^^^ T'd into the parking brake knob there's the parking brake light switch.^^^

Don't think so, buzzer is gonna be an aqua green thing in the glove box.

You just score a ring around the axle shaft near the hub, and now if it breaks it's guaranteed to break where you scored it. If it breaks deep inside, you have to pull both axles if it's gonna get towed so you don't spin the differential around and pick chunks up and eat a rear. Just a lot cheaper and faster repair to have the break at the hub.

It creates a weak spot out by the hub, so they break there instead of breaking all the way in. A lot easier to replace an axle broken at the hub than deep inside.

I'm sorry to hear about your dad's diagnosis. Sometimes life hits hard and all at once.

Haven't heard from you in a bit, how are you making out?

I'd expect there's enough room between the differential and the axle tubes that the bits of axle would fall into the oil, but it's been a very long time since I've had a differential out of one of these.

My one brother managed to break an axle on our dm686SX!!! Those shafts are thick!! He was starting out on a hill, and decided he would use the parking brake to hold the truck while he got the clutch ready. Only he misjudged, the parking brake takes about 5 seconds to release on ths truck. He went all in on trying to go and.... Roadside repair.

Not sure how you're gonna get the splined piece out of the differential without pulling it... That's a pain.

Depends where it broke. Out at the hub or in at the differential? If it broke by the hub you should be fine to pull the pieces and shove a new axle in. Note the differential sits off to the right on Camelback suspension so the axle shafts are different lengths left vs right. Also the spline count and axle thickness can vary depending on your specs, so I'd just go to the dealer for one most likely. My dad used to score the axleshafts a little out by the hub. Then my older brothers moved on to other careers and now we don't have to score our axles anymore.

2002 has the Left Side Redesign, (started in 2001) the EECU is on the intake manifold on driver side of engine. VECU is on the passenger seat kick panel, it's common for the windshield seal to fail on R models and let water in to cause VECU issues. How are your batteries? What does the voltage do when you crank? EECU shuts off at 9.5 volts, so weak/failing batteries will result in a crank/no start situation. What blink codes do you have? Key on, cruise control off, press the set/decel cruise rocker down. Hold til lightning bolt blinks, then count the 2 digit code it blinks to you. Repeat set/decel request until codes start repeating themselves. Example code: 9-5. Share the codes here and we can point you in the right direction.

Fortunately there's enough of these engines running in my area that the parts guys at my dealer rarely have a problem. If they do they'll just email you the parts diagram to help pinpoint what you're asking for.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/235504211686?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 And here's the part number you seem to be looking for.

https://www.heavydutypros.com/mack-left-hand-axle-bracket-12qk43p2.aspx?utm_medium=paid&utm_keyword=&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=16494479656&utm_network=x&utm_placement=&utm_source=&utm_prodid=170860&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_-GxBhC1ARIsADGgDjv60Be6aAlc9Gqgq6tJ8RfAmGjeqoPiwLY7E73_1G4R7C3n1IuWQ3saAgOvEALw_wcB Mack Axle Stop. Part number doesn't quite match yours, there's a front/back/left/right.

Mid 1970's til they discontinued the R model in ~2001. If the DM continues passed 2001 then they used the dash til the end of the DM.

I know my Mack dealer just got a new parts computer system. The new system only shows current part numbers, it doesn't show obsolete numbers. They have to go through three more steps to look up what obsolete numbers transfer to. Or some dumb excess of work. I wonder if that's why they're telling you you have to buy a full set of lifters or pushrods, they're working with an awful system and can't figure out how to pick out the part number for just one rod or lifter.

You have to order a full set?? Can't order 1 or 2??

An ENDT"B" engine I think would have Mack's Dynatard camshaft. Not sure how the Dynatard worked.

Yea you can run it without engine brake. Where did you get the cam?? I'm a little perplexed that you bent/destroyed a pushrod and wiped a lobe. Be careful adjusting the valves, they have to be done "by the book"! One cylinder at a time. A colored marker on the damper wheel is a big help to see the timing marks and which cylinder numbers you're at...

Number sounds legit. Try it at your local Mack dealer or pull one at a junkyard.

That's a sharp looking engine. I love the colors, just hate the association to MP engines.