JoeH
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Everything posted by JoeH
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About $4.799 yesterday here in southeastern pa
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Personally I also don't see how popping the clutch bumps the shifter out of the gates...
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I don't think clutch linkage breaks when you pop the clutch. That usually breaks other things. Input shafts, crank shaft, output shaft, axle shafts, counter shafts....
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Pictures great. I wouldn't switch to a 2 stick, those are geared for the Maxidyne engines, which would be either an EM6 or an EM7. The maxidynes have an 800+ rpm power and, in which they make 90%+ torque from 1000-1200 all the way up to the governor. An E7-400 is nice but it doesn't have the broad powerband. Also the 2 sticks aren't designed for THAT much torque. Plus you'd be looking at having to replace the driveshaft due to different length transmission. And cutting holes in your floor for the shifters.
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Problem with most air ride is it doesn't compensate well going through bumps. Takes time for air to pass forward/backward, whereas the camelback seesaws instantly and averages out the bumps.
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For dirt stick with camelbacks. You can upgrade the rears to full lockers, but the used ones are rare and hard to find. Nothing will feel like your EM6 pulls. I'd fix the EM6. Get a parts truck. Going to 500hp you'll need bigger driveshaft and you'll have an easier time snapping axles. And more frame twist.
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Clean truck! Watch for vertical cracks in the frame where it starts to flare out to go around the transmission. We broke both frame rails on our 79 r686st. We used a donor frame for that repair....
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I'd fix that motor or buy a newer truck already set up with an E7. I wouldn't invest that much effort into swapping a different engine in, not worth potential fitment issues. Originally it had an ENDT675 non tip turbine 237hp motor. I assume it's single frame. E6 is just a newer version of the ENDT engine. Sometimes 2v sometimes 4v I believe.
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Generally cracks in heads aren't a good thing? Someone else can chime in. Cylinder liners are easy to get out, you just weld a bead vertically up the inside of the liner and it'll shrink as it cools. Should pop right out.
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Engine mount pedestal bolts to front of timing cover instead of the rubber donut style the E6 uses. Then bolts through rubber blocks to the backside of the cross member that spans between front spring hanger.
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What model truck are you running? RD? DM? The engine may be a little longer, but it is longer towards the front not the rear. The front engine mount and fan assembly are more compact to account for length difference.
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Truck in accident, no external damage, crank but no start
JoeH replied to Highroadhauling's question in Mack Truck Q & A
Fuel shutoff control? Is it a cable shutoff or air solenoid? On a mechanical truck if it won't start then you aren't getting fuel.... -
Just read it over, you'd switch from an em6 to an e7-454. You'd need to swap transmissions too, which may affect trans mounts and would definitely affect driveshaft length.
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What year and model is your truck? With the right donor truck you could pick up much of what you'd need. Mack used a lot of components over and over across multiple models and decades. What trans do you have? Might be prudent to switch to an EM7-300 if your current rig is a maxidyne.
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Which joint is "worn"? The forward one that mates to the pitman arm is adjustable, my dad just adjusted one of ours.
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Saw this old iron on vacation in the Scranton region. Cabover caught my eye, was rewarded by a couple other gems taking a doze.
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Sounds like curiosity saved the dog... Great find! Makes sense that a blown engine ate the turbo. We should have picked up on that tidbit and thought it through a bit better.
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My E7-350 peaks at 35 psi boost. If think a 400 would do at least that.
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I'm stumped on what afc stands for; is this the puff limiter system? I was thinking maybe the puff limiter system was hooked up wrong
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E7 low power help!
JoeH replied to Dtech's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
The rule on adjusting Mack valves is "follow the book to the T" -
truck shuts off while driving or idling.
JoeH replied to dirtys diesel's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
What are you working on? Probably fuse #42 is loose for the EECU. -
My Jake does the same on my 95 e7-350. Always get at least one head working on high, usually don't get the "low" setting head working ever.
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The other possibility is you're low on coolant, and for some fluke reason 1500rpms seems to cause a dip in water level, triggering sensor...
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In the event you don't have a crack, figure the charge air cooler system is good for 35 psi. Don't leave it on for too long if it's not leaking.
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Charge air coolers like to crack. You should see 35 psi of boost. Get a couple 4 inch PVC pipe end caps, put an tire valve stem in one, and clamp one end cap into each rubber hose on the charge air cooler. Hook up your tire chuck to the valve stem on the one cap and listen for leaks. My '95 E7-350 had a nice big crack down the front right side of the charge air cooler. Went from 1100+ degrees on the pyrometer at 22psi boost to -900 degrees and 35psi boost.
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