ducky698

thanks again for info fellas. i can see underneath my dash that its plated and bolted to what looks like whats left of the original. this cabs got rust everywhere, roof gutter, above doors and A pillars and below in same. i know anything can be cut out and rebuilt but is going to be a big job. called Moores wrecking in qld yest they have a flintstone tipper i believe in reasonable nick but theyre unsure how theyre going to sell it. ive still got a bit of work left on B then ill tackle this one. i just thought it would be more oringinal with flat dash, must admit was better for driving with this one but wont be using it that much in future. Also where can i get info on these flintstones, data, measurements, what chassis/ motors etc. Im in south aus for what its worth.

cheers ellis

Hi, I am in WA, Jeff will have all that info Im sure. your welcom to this cab, but shipping be atleast 500 I think? where in SA are you? theres a guy in Grafton SA, I think thats where he said??? has some bits, he was on ebay a bit. new panels can be bought thru mack, there is a pic of a front side section in my pics, that was 450.00 the lower sill is around 220.00, roof is 1000,00, gutter parts range from 200 to 800.00 an doors non gen out of the USA for about 300 each. another cab will be easier

regards Grant

Ellis, those measurements are for the early cab. You could find another cab if yours is badly rusted and you want a flat dash.

To put and old dash back in would be a cow of a job as the original dash is part of the cab and it would've been cut out.

If you can find a big cab minus the dash you can see the remnants of the old dash in the pressing and that would give you an idea

of what you'd be up against.

Jeff.

Hi, where is it rusty? the flintstone cab in the pics is not getting used, Jeff, Hi Jeff! got all the dash out of that cab, so the cab is just sitting there waiting for a home. I am using the later cab on my flintstone.

regards Grant

Im guessing your both right, looks like its had a later model cab put on at some stage, certainly wasnt for rust problem as this ones riddled with it. When you say cab is longer - how much longer and any other differences? has short steel handles like the b model at present.

ellis

Hello, there about 4inches longer, thats about the only difference I think? the steel dash cab was shorter with small hand rails and the plastic dash cab was longer with long hand rails, all rust repair sections are available for plastic dash cabs.

regards Grant

Hi, My 67 flintstone has got the larger wrap around plastic dash in it, first question did they ever come out with them in 67 and second how hard is it to replace it with a steel flat dash?

cheers

Hi, same here in oz, the 1973 cab was longer to, and had a long grab handle to climb up to door, i would imagine it would be a time consumeing exercise to convert back to a steel dash.

Grant

No problem at all if you want to store it here. As I said plenty of room. Are you going to replace the cab for the steering wheel arrangement or leave it as is? You sure went through a lot of work to convert it to go back.

Whatever you need to do let me know.

Rob

Hello, no worries, thankyou. will leave it right hand drive, dont want to put the steering wheel on the wrong side I have a ford coupe in storage there all ready, will be looking for somewhere in Dupage county for now, am also bringing a Ford ute over aswell.

Grant

getting ready to redo my exhuast manifolds on a e9. going to biger turbo and more fuel. has anyone extrude honed and jethot coated them. is there any gain in hp or cooler exhaust temp. this truck is used everyday its not a pull truck so im looking for durability. thanks

Hello, i have used a similar coating to this on some extractors I made for the Tumbler Bat car I built, I found the coating to work well and keep them cooler, also use the redline water wetter in cooling system to pull the temp down as much as possible.

Grant

Hi Grant, I have plenty of outside storage available. What were you needing from this part of the world?

Rob

Hello, slowly starting to pack here to move there. am looking for some where to put the mack until we find a decent place as its coming over to. we may have a place before it arrives but just in case. it would probly be the only triple roadtrain rated ttrick over there

Grant

:SMOKIE-LFT:It was actually quieter with 6" straight pipes than it was when I had it all in 5" wiith 2 resonator mufflers on it. I don't think backpressure is needed with them , I found it better without backpressue.

Hi, interesting, will have to see how much room is under cab, i have lifted it up a bit now and just working out where to run the pipes. hey Rob how much room you got at your place?

Grant

I had 5 inch out of the turbo through the Y pipe then ran 6 inch staight pipes, no mufflers.

hi, that must have been loud. i dont think i will go that big, i was tossing up between 4 an 5 inch, i am unsure what way to rout it as well.

do they like some back pressure or do they like straight thru, whats best on these engines for there performance?

Grant

Hi all, what size exhaust would be best for power on an 866?it will come out of turbo and be single to under cab where it will split into 2 then go up cab either side.

regards Grant

Probably burned off the fuel that was still in the lines and the pump gallery.

Was the throttle linkage jammed in the "wide open" position?

Doesn't sound like the rack is stuck, because with a stuck rack the shutoff control will have no effect.

.

Hello, no the rack is not stuck, the throttle is on idle and hard back with return spring, the only thing I can come up with is the fuel lines were draped over near the turbo and the return line dumped the fuel and it was sucked straight in to the turbo! I am pretty sure of this as the turbo inlet was wet. it could have been worse! its sitting there with left front wheel missing and could have been in gear

Grant

Hey Grant, That sounds like some of the stuff I get myself into. But I would not tell anyone. It just hurts the pocket book later. I'd send some goodluck over but, i'm fresh out of luck.

Hi, as long as it had some oil pressure she should be rite?? didnt run for that long it was just unexpected.

Grant

mike

Hello all, just added more pics of the slow progress, have fitted drive shafts and the under chassis air start tank! it now has the air start line on, and um well, firstly the engine has been turned over once in 18mths so the should be no fuel left in system and the fuel lines are draped over the motor! now I put start line on to tank, pressureize my new tank and thought I will give it a crank to just turn it over! great idea.... not! the dam thing started and brang itself up on revs to who knows what before I thumbled around looking for enginge stop under a blue tarp cover.

it must have ran for 20seconds at most then the question was ok it must have had fuel left in the lines, well fine but why did it rev? because the return line was right next to the turbo air pick up that I had just uncovered because the tape was breaking up that I had it sealed with, so what did this grumpy 866 do? it sucked the unwanted fuel straight in! the truck has no radiator, no water, lucky enough i left the oil in it, so I hope it picked that up!

dam thing.

Grant

Red dot I was working on the B when it was in production at the dealer here. We installed the roof mount as a kit and there was two braces that had to be welded in under the roof skin to suport the weight. There was a funky braket and idler mounted on the front timing gear cover of the front cover and it used a belt from the crank. If i remember it was not a good ideal. On my B i found a thin light metal pully that was same diameter as the water pump pulley and brased it to the water pump pulley and bingo. Used a R model compressor mount and a york compressor but have seen kits that had a braket that used a rotary compressor. I think that is better. I used a red dot condenssor and mounted it with its fan on top of the box that i have mounted using it as a camper.

Hi, I am fitting air con to an r model, am using the vintage air gen 2 mini system, its a nice kit and small and fits behind the dash.

http://www.vintageair.com/

regards Grant

Gday mate how are ya? It wasnt a Brambles truck, it came from Tassie. It originally belonged to Mt Foster Timber Co. There were 3 or 4 of them down there. I used the paint code that came back to me on this post and it looks really good. All Ive gotta do now is get it ready for Alice Springs in August. Are you coming across to it?

.

Hi. your off there to! a few from Perth are going to that. good luck with it.

regards Grant

Thanks bbigrig That cross over to a Power Steer P/N = HF64101 That's the one i installed.Thanks for everyone's help

hi, this is hfb 70 on an ozy mack.

regards Grant

Thanks mate, I will give that a go this week. As soon as it starts to come together I will get some photos posted. Thanks again to all who wrote back. Keep on truckin. Skip

Hi, do you know who owned it new? wouldnt surprise me if it was Brambles red, Geof may be able to shed some light??

Grant

Hi, welcome, this is a great board, you will enjoy it.

regards Grant, Perth, Western Australia

Does any one know if you can fix the fiber optic lights for the dash of an R model? I'm trying to get the little lights for the wipers, headlights, marker lights and so on. They look like they are lit by a fibre optic rope with a central 194 bulb. My bulb works, but I have no light at the ends of the rope.

Hi, there still available from Mack.

regards Grant

Call WAtts Mack because i saw the parts today on this site in the R model parts section for sale. A complete change over kit with delay control for about 575.00. The new air motor along is about 475.00 so this is a good price i think.

Hello, thank you. thats expensive, am going to try make one at the moment, think i have figured it out??

I need to relocate wiper motor and run an extra pivot point and can then use a wiper motor from a ford falcon 98 model, will get pics up when sorted.

Grant

Grant With the Budd Wheels there were 10 inner and 10 outer nut to hold Budd (Disc) style wheel on. Also there were left and right hand threads specific to each side these were also called stud piloted. The newer style Motor wheel Hub Piloted use only 10 nuts per wheel same either side. A big improvement over the Budd Wheels. I prefer Dayton ( Spoke ) wheels. Joe D.

Hi, i see. i have only ever seen spiders or just ten stud here, spiders are more common out here on trailers going north, they tend to keep dollys and trailers the same for going north and carry a couple of spares per trailer, prime movers tend to be either.

Grant

AMEN! I to was dumb and worked in a shop for years before I got smart and bought a truck LOL! different stud lenghts whether hub or stud pilot. Some 80's stud pilot hubs had a small lip(guide) that that would center the rims. You remove the "inner" studs and replace them with 1 peice hub pilot(studs). I did it on a '80 359 with 38k rears

Hi, what do you mean inner nuts/ outer nuts? how many nuts hold the 2 wheels on over there? 10 or 20? Im confused :)both inner and outer rim here is held on with ten nuts only, and there under alot of load when dragging 3x 45 ton trailers.

Grant

Hi, is there an electric wiper conversion available for an R model?

regards Grant

hey a RB688s, set back front axle, quarter fenders are mounted on cab, not full fenders on hood, if you go to my garage I have pics(cant fig. how to attach pics here)

Hi, i see, thats a valueliner here. its the same as the truck my cab and steering box came off, I had the drag link cut down to fit my axle. dual air cleaners will set thing off.

regards Grant

Nice looking bracket. I've got to do the same with two of my trucks as I want dual air cleaners too.

Thanks,

Rob

hi, its come up well. made from 4mm steel, the holes were plasma cut, all in all about 3 hours work. just put more pics up of the build, am half way thru making rear crossmember at the moment and still working out where to fit that big air tank.

Grant