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ducky698

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by ducky698

  1. POR-15 is a very good product but as Grant said it has no UV protection built in. It must be allowed to "gas out" before topcoating with a final color or it will do as Al stated; BTDT. I use a product called "Chassis Saver". It is just as good as the POR-15 but costs quite a bit less. It also doesn't "chalk off" near as bad as the other product when the sun hits it.

    Rob

    mine chacked off with in a month. its good stuff tho, had fun trying to get it off me! went over it with 2 pack so that chassis shouldnt have a problem

    Grant

  2. I think my "parts engine" has that setup also but I'll have to look. Won't be back to the shop till this afternoon.

    How long before you will be in Chicago again?

    Rob

    Hi, i will be there in a couple of months or so. will be for good next time, just have to get this thing together and running for the boat trip.

    am heading to melbourne tomorrow in a B double, will be back home next sunday.

    Grant

  3. It looks as if you may need to get the stub shaft and gear that is driven from an existing gear. I don't know if the original cover is sealed with a plug that can be removed, or is blank that would require boring for a support bearing, retainer, and seal.

    Rob

    I have mack Australia onto it now, they said that system wasnt set up here, and to just run it straight off the crank. I think I prefer your system. hopefully they can find something?

    Grant

  4. Trent,

    Replacing the roof panel is an ordeal from what I've been told.But one you'll be glad you did,once your done with it.The guy that painted my truck says he'd rather replace a roof, than to try and straighten/repair it.He also warns against Por-15.It's a good product but not to be used before final painting is done,unless its far away from the sheet metal to be painted.He experianced this first hand while painting a beautiful vintage Dodge wagon for a customer.The guy had painted his inner fenders with POR-15.When the painter went to shoot the outer fenders,the paint ribboned as if somebody poured brake fluid on it.It was the fumes coming off of the POR-15 that screwed the paint up.The customer had to take the inner fenders out, then painter then was able to repaint the outers with no problem.I guess its just the volotility of the POR-15 that messed the paint up.Just a hint, by no means am I saying POR-15 is a bad product,it just has to be handled with some thought. Al :thumb::mack1:

    Hi, my chassis is painted in por15, it has no UV protection at all, then I painted over it in 2 Pak

    Grant

  5. I've never had an 866 apart so don't really know. I'll look into the service manuals for an exploded parts breakdown this afternoon.

    Rob

    Hello, the book I have shows a heap of parts, but doesnt say if I can just pop the cover off and put it all on. I would expect that is the case? if not I may have to run a small pulley off crank?

    Grant

  6. I recently came across a 1977 rs700l mack for sale. Originally had a 375 V8(long gone,now a 300)12 spd trans, camelback suspension and budd wheels.The truck is in decent shape but it does need rocker panels and maybe a door.Interior is still in nice shape as is the hood and the original front bumper.If i get it, the E9 setting in the corner of my garage would be cool under the hood! Has anyone put an e9 in a rs700??? Thanks!

    Hi, I will be doing the same when the 375 goes bang. rocker panels still available from mack, it comes with the under side section to.

    Grant

  7. Hi Grant, I told you wrong on the A/C drive. The 866 engine drives the compressor from the auxilary shaft on the rt. front of the engine. I confused trucks......

    Here are a few photos. Also the heater hoses pickup on the discharge, and inlet housing of the water pump. You can see this in the photos also.

    Rob

    Hello, I see, thank you, so it looks like I need a pulley, and a gear maybe? to run that air con. I assume its all ready inside the motor, I just need to get the outer drive assembly. would this be correct?

    Grant

  8. Lower rt. front of the engine driven from the crankshaft sheave. I'll grab you some photos in a couple of hours when I'm at the shop.

    Rob

    Hello, no worries, thank you, so it runs direct off crank shaft then?

    its getting there. I cut the cab brace off to, will make again with exhaust there, have sorted the exhaust out now.

    the bolts at back of cab, I take it there to mount the exhaust? there is 2 1/2 bolts on either side about 3/4 up the cab. I am running twin 5inch straight through stacks, 5 inch off engine and then into twin 5s.

    Grant

  9. Yeah that's right. You wouldn't want to kick a pretty girl in the ass when she bent over in front of you.

    Rob

    Hi, they look really good, well done. we have a trimmer here who cant seem to get his stitching straight, you have done well.

    Grant

  10. If I can add to this.

    R700s could sit as tall as a standard 600 or they could be slightly higher with the use of diffrent mounts to get the cab higher off the frame. Most of the 700s I see sit at the same hight of a 600. The mid-late 70s RS/RL have diffrent hoods so dont look at them for measurements.Consider if you want an air to air intercooler in front of the radiator. you will need about 3" to fit the intercooler so plan on moving the rad back a little. you will need to bend the gear levers to fit in the cab and the cab floor will need the holes for the sticks under the dash closer to the fire wall. If you want air cab suspension. secure the radiator to the frame with steel rods to hold it steady. dont use the old style "x" brace.

    sounds like you have your hands full!!!

    Trent

    Hi, hands are to full, i have run exhaust out side, then under chassis and back in, how ever that may change yet?? I have little room below chassis cross member and drive shaft to get a bend on the Y section and have it not bang and clunk, I am having another play tomorrow.

    Grant

  11. Here's a few more photos with the hood closed from all angles.

    Rob

    Hello, thankyou for the info, it looks like the hood is fine then, I didnt like how it sat above the chassis, it seemed to far back. my biggest drama is I am using frame rails from a flintstone 69 model, a bogie drive from a 1975 F model a front spring and shackle assembly from a 1975 F model aswell as the 866 engine, the steering box and cab are from a 1989 R model, so I have bits from everything and the hood is from a 1974 R700 and a 20speed gearbox from a Kenworth.

    but its getting there, this forum and everyone on it has helped tremendously.

    regards Grant

  12. more......

    Hello, thats an interesting measureing stick you have there. they are the same, its in the correct spot., the hood sits above the chassis tho, not in front of it. thought it may be to far back but maybe its not?

    thankyou for the pics and info, I now no the cab is correct, so the hood must be ok to.

    Grant

  13. XXX oversize hey, mmm nothing wrong with XXX :) yes milimtres is fine thanks, will measure today, the holes I have used for cab mount ar as per your pics, just the hood sits over the top of the chassis at front.

    this may be correct, but with out a R700 or superliner kicking around here its a bit hard to take a look at another one., plenty of R600s, but no R700s, I have like 20cms at front of cab to turbo on 866 engine.

    I see the hood mounts are off the radiator, will avoid that design I think?

    thankyou for the measurements.

    regards Grant

  14. Hi Grant, I'll snap a couple photos tonight for you and put dimensions along with them. What type of hood hinge arrangement are you using for the opening? Does it use small tie rod ends, or flat hinge plates? I have both at the shop. Do you prefer metric measurements, or inches?

    Rob

    Hello, i will probably use tie rods, have to make all of it, i have the pics you sent before of cab location, wich is i assume the same bolt holes as what i have used, but whe you go to front of the truck the hood tends to sit over top of the chassis, not in front of it. there is also alot of room behind engine to cab, appeared to be to much?

    Grant

    post-2194-127470674398_thumb.jpg

  15. mine was only 4 inch so it fitted between the rail and fuel tank , when i decided to do my stacks i wanted 5 inch but i mesured everything up i found it wouldnt fit.if it was a prime mover it would becuase the y piece could of gone above the rails behind the cab wich would be a better setup as mine is mounted directly in the muffler there is a split second delay between the stacks when i put the foot down. , what gearbox are you using because my mack box is the perfect shape on the drivers side for the muffler to be mounted beside it.

    Hello, its a 20speed spicer. am not sure if my cab is in correct spot either, will put a post in cab section for that. I hope it is, as its going to be a pain to shift.

    regards Grant

  16. Hi, thanks for the help, yes room is tite, my tanks are longer than that to. I will take some pics tomorrow. I have an air start tank that sits under the truck, its a great tank, and gets it off the side of the truck, now I have room problems for exhaust, and also how to get it to come out to the Y section to go into 2, plus do I mount the exhaust on or off the cab?

    regards Grant

  17. Hello Guys, what route does the exhaust take on R model when there is 4 fuel tanks and a air start tank under nieth? how much clearance should i give the exhaust? I am running them up either side next to back of cab, between cab and sleeper, but how does one get it to this place? I was considering, out of engine, over chassis, then go under chassis and pop back in next to gearbox on right side then go directly above drive shaft and over chassis to the stacks, but room is tite, how much room would you allow as minimum clearance?

    regars Grant

  18. Gday Grant, im an hr or so south of Adelaide. only grafton i know is in nsw, but not 100%sure if theres another. local wrecker has a 600 but is just as stuffed, i got air tank and a xmember off it yr or so back but rest is near usless, having said that im not sure about what dash its got?? i guess trouble with getting your old one over is its probably in same state as mine. ill try local mack dealer for panels but whenever ive gone there for say a radiator hose for C motor they scratch around for a while to find old book then someone to make sense of it, i think they reckon a 96' model is old. will try em anyway but first will cut out areas and see where and how bad it really is.

    once again thanks for info, dont know if youve done any more to yours but put some pics on if you have, would be good to see.

    cheers ellis

    Hello, here is another pic. there from a book from 1977 but it will give you an idea of how the parts are laid out.

    post-2194-127331983159_thumb.jpg

  19. Gday Grant, im an hr or so south of Adelaide. only grafton i know is in nsw, but not 100%sure if theres another. local wrecker has a 600 but is just as stuffed, i got air tank and a xmember off it yr or so back but rest is near usless, having said that im not sure about what dash its got?? i guess trouble with getting your old one over is its probably in same state as mine. ill try local mack dealer for panels but whenever ive gone there for say a radiator hose for C motor they scratch around for a while to find old book then someone to make sense of it, i think they reckon a 96' model is old. will try em anyway but first will cut out areas and see where and how bad it really is.

    once again thanks for info, dont know if youve done any more to yours but put some pics on if you have, would be good to see.

    cheers ellis

    Hello, give Matthew Hendry a ring, he is at a Mack dealer on the Gold coast, they will ship no probs through TNT his number is 07 5596 3972 he is on the ball with the old stuff.

    pic attached of cab

    post-2194-127331964234_thumb.jpg

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