ducky698

just wondering and looking for some advice....Anyone ever put an air cleaner on driver(L)side on a RB? I know they did in Au and I think R700 was duel breather too, but that differnt hood and cab firewall. just thinking out loud!!

an RB? which model is this? I make a left bracket for an R model air cleaner, I am putting two on mine.

Grant

Grant, for some reason my brain mixed up your tank dimensions. So 168 liters then? Little small for an air start tank, they are usually 227 liters and up. Those tank dimensions sound like it belongs right behind the fuel tanks along the frame rail.

Hello, i havent checked the litres, the one that sits on outside, thats 227Litres is it? pic attached of this one, its come from a ch

Grant

As close to the starter as possible. I have seen them mounted behind the fuel tanks, in front of the fuel tank on the drivers side (right hand drive). Some companies here in the US have mounted a long small diameter tank vertically behind the cab( the now defunct CF comes to mind). Keep the hose short and you will have less problems.

Hi, this is a proper cf starter tank that goes undernieth, will snap a pic today, I have all the brackets, but nothing seems to fit any where, have pulled all the brackets off it now and will have a go fitting it up there, it sits close to tail shaft tho.

Grant

Hi, I have found an air starter tank from a CH Mack, its 58inches long and 15 inches in diameter, where exactly does this sit? i know it sits inside the chassis, but where?

Grant

I see one small problem..

Hi, now that i am back from melbourne again. have put another album in solely for pics of rebuild, i have to find the pics of chassis coming down, before i put pics of it going back together.

fitted 6 of the 8 tank mounts today. will be able to carry 1600 litres of fuel. am fitting two air tanks also, plus starter tank and oil tank for pto.

Grant

We need a few pics of this project!!!!

wow .. thats a project LOL!! i wish you luck with it. thats alot of things to get lined up right. It sounds like you will be better off making some of the mounts rather than trying to get the diffrent parts to work for you???

regards

Trent

Hi, thanks, its getting there. the cab mounts may be ok, i will pop cab on and see where the sub frame i made sits, hopefully it sits high enuf to miss front cross member.

I am also making a rear cross member, one that has a ring feeder set up on it to shift dollys and road train trailers around the yard, the drive shafts are getting made now, the radiator is getting rotted out to. i spend about 2-3 hours a day on it most days, tomorrow will do a full day so should have the track rods in and rear cross member made???

Grant

If I recall correctly a R700 mount is a little diffrent than a 73+ RS700 mounts. as the later RS cabs sat higher above the fram than early models. same with Valueliners as those cabs also sit higher. As rob said the RS600-valuliner and later RS700L all had straight rails. the diffrence could be the mount or where the mount holes were drilled. I think most of the later cabs used the same style but they could be a little diffrent depending on the model of the truck. simple way to check cab hight is to look at the back of the cab. if the cab rear wall is about flush with the top of the frame rails. that could be a standard R model. if it sits about 6" above the rails the cab is "raised". Early Fuel tanks also used the front or rear or both cab mounts as a support so that may come into play? are you converting a R600 to a R700?

Trent

Hi, interesting. yes am converting a 69 flintstone r600 to a 1970s r700, i have a cab off a 89 model, chassis is 69 model, motor is 866 from an f model, gearbox is 20spd, diffs are f model so is front suspension, the cab mounts are from a 75 r600 so its a bittsa, I may look at making some cab mounts i think??

Grant

The earlier model R models have a glove box as the fuse an breaker panel is located forward of the passenger's knees behind an access panel. I believe in 1985 this was relocated and the panel was put in the glove box.

I have both if you need photos.

Rob

Hi, bolted cab mounts on today. are there difrant height mounts? the pic from you shows cab sitting above chassis, this one looks like it will sit almost on chassis, am using R600 mounts with spacers behind them till a proper set turn up. the mounts i am using are from the water truck in album.

Grant

The earlier model R models have a glove box as the fuse an breaker panel is located forward of the passenger's knees behind an access panel. I believe in 1985 this was relocated and the panel was put in the glove box.

I have both if you need photos.

Rob

Hi, I was actually thinking of putting in a glove box because i am fully redoing the wiring in the truck. am not bothered about the big cicuit breakers that were in it as they were old and messy, am doing it another way.

Grant

Hi, measured truck today, have mounts in correct spot now. just need to space them out an inch an they will be wide enuf for cab.

have started on the dash to, will be padding the plastic in black vinyl and then having the gauge area done in western red cedar wood grain, this process is powder coating used for house doors.

does the R models over there have a glove box?

Grant

I'm sure there's better info out there on the internet but here's the basic idea behind a power divider. The front differential has a set of spider gears directly behind the front yoke. This is what is called the inter axle differential or power divider. What it does is divide up the power to the front and rear axles. If both axles are on flat ground and there's no slippage both axles will get the same amount of power but if one axle is going over a hump or is slipping the inter axle differential will allow the axles to turn at different speeds. This setup allows everything to move smoothly without binding. The only problem is, the inter axle differential always likes to feed power to the axle that's easiest to spin. So if for example you were to put a jack under the rear axle and raise the tires off the ground the inter axle differential would put almost no power to the front axle and the back tires would spin in mid air but the truck wouldn't move. In fact all you really have to do is raise ONE rear tire because there is also a differential that divides the power between the left and right axle.

The "power divider" or inter axle differential divides the power between the front and rear axle equally but as the example shows when you have one axle with zero traction it will apply zero power to the other axle too.

When you flip the switch and lock the power divider a gear slides up and locks the driveline up so you send full power to both axles. Now, if you were to jack up the rear axle the front axle would get power and the truck would just drive right off the jack.

There's really no harm in locking up the power divider at any speed as long as all the wheels are turning the same speed but if you're spinning up an icy hill and either the front or rear axle is spinning faster the gear will grind and damage may result. The best bet in that situation is to let off on the throttle a bit so the wheels aren't spinning while you lock up the power divider.

Some trucks also have locking differentials that lock the left and right axles together. The same rules apply there except that locked axles will cause more binding when going around corners. This binding on turns will make the truck tend to want to go straight ahead. This can be a problem in icy conditions if for example you are trying to make a tight turn. The truck will start to turn well enough but as the binding increases the steering axle can sometimes break free and start to plow a bit. So you have to be careful and give yourself a little more room.

Using the regular power divider and most especially the locking axles will always cause a certain amount of binding on anything but straight roads so you try to only use them when necessary.

Jim

Hi, thankyou for the replies, it seems like an intersting bit of gear. we have a lot of muddy dirt roads here, just dont want to get bogged.

regards Grant

Grant, I snapped photos on both sides of the truck for comparison and left the camera at the shop. I'll get by later today and post but there will be a delay.

Sorry about that.

Rob

Which power divider? Is it Mack's automatic one, (does not require air), or an air shifter power divided? The Mack automatic power divider works well when in good shape but will only keep about 75-80% of driveline torque and keep the differentials together before breaking over. An air locked power divider does not slip until something breaks but should not be left engaged on a solid surface such as asphalt, or concrete roadways where there would be hardly any tire slippage.

Rob

Hi, its the air operated one. am glad they work well, as this thing may end up thru alot of dirt tracks.

Grant

Hi, does any one have a side pic of chassis around cab front mount area? I just need to confirm the location i have is correct. I have all ready swapped engine mounts around once to get them in correct spot, dont want to get caught with the cab

Grant

Hi, how well does the power divider work? read the manual on it, seems quite interesting but how well does it work?

Grant

thanks Noid93,any one else have any info? I am also looking for other suppliers for the trunnions and opinions of quality etc.

Hi, I have seen one down here that has been cut in half and welded, this was a replacement lower section. the truck was rated to 120ton and it never broke.

Grant

hi,

Most engines are on a 4 deg. tilt, I would use a protractor with a level and find out what your angle is. If you are not sure about the 4 deg. you can check the angle of the pinion flange on the rear axle, it should be the same as the angle of your entire drive line. if you have angles that don't match you will have a viberation issue later on. As a side note, on my r 700 v8 the fan doesn't line up with the radiator very well, appers the radiator is much higher than the fan, Fan runs directly on a shaft in the front of the engine. how does your fan run, on belts or direct?

Hi, the fan runs on belts. its a big heavy thing to. bet that robs some power. the angle does look out, will check the 4degree today. the chassis I am useing was a 6cyl chassis. the engine mounts,front crossmember, front engine mount are all from an F model that had the deaper rails.

Grant

I would imagine this might have something to do with it:

hi, other than the turning circle and the ease of reversing 2x 45 foot trailers up to the third they are bumpy things!, KWs are cramped, Volvos make you sea sick and freghtliners buck.

the price is about what we pay down here for a heavy duty prime mover.

Grant

The engine looks to have too much of a angle down in the rear.

Hello, thats what i thought. but if i lift it up the mounts dont line up. need to look at another one to see where its located.

Grant

Hi Grant, at a glance that looks about right. If you have R600 cab mounts they wont be wide enough because your chassis narrows back where R700 mounts go. R700 mounts are wider because the chassis is narrower back there. My new mobile is 0448 267 676. Regards Jeffro.

Hello, it wouldnt be narrower by much, have put them in both spots and it didnt seem to go in much, will find out how out they are I spose

my mobile has changed also.

regards Grant

Hello All, gt engine in today, found a notle mount with correct mounts on it, saved a heap of time! but is the engine sitting in the correct spot or is it leaning back to far? and on a 700 where do the cab mounts sit? I think i have them in correct spot??

Grant

Thankyou everyone for your help. I found a impellor and a new shaft here, just waiting on the spring seal from Mack.

Grant

Hi, got the impellor off today. I was correct, it locked up and had sheared the pin! problem is it has cracked the impellor in front of the pin. the shaft is not to happy either.

the bearing behind the timing cover case that the water pimp is driven by, are these fed by the oil system? or are they sealed? and is there any more sealed bearings on the front of this engine?

the water pump isnt available new there is it? part #316GC1151A it cross refranced to 316GC1151EX here.

Grant

Hi, neat truck. if its a 74 why has it got an early cab on it tho?

Grant

THANKS FOR THE HELP ROB; I'M ALWAYS LEARNING MORE AND MORE!! THANKS

Hi, mine was sand blasted, the soda guy ran a mile. cost me 750.00 aud to get chassis, crossmembers blasted. they came up like new.

Grant