ciw65

Just outta curiosity here, how come in Australia the E-tech came as a 470hp but in the states it was a 460??? Wonder if you could get a download to bump it to Aust. spec 470. Just a thought....

And yes, if your engine is running cold it will smoke! Sounds like the previous owner may have removed the thermostat too if he has done the rest of the work. Bad idea as your engine will never get up to operating temp with no thermostat, unless it's a day where it's 110 in the shade. No coolant running through the compressor can cause it to cook the head of the compressor and crack. Also with all the other plugs and blockages you run the risk of airlocks in the engine heads and block due to bad coolant circulation.

Yep, as stated, if your trans wasn't originally designed for a clutch brake, that is there is no machined flat face on the front of the seal housing on the input shaft, you have to use a countershaft brake, which goes on the pto cover plate. Last time I installed one, the modified plate came in the kit. Then it's just a matter of mount a small button type valve on the gearstick and running the air lines.

Our Quantum with an EA7-470 (think the A designates Australian spec) is being a pig yet again. Local dealer has washed their hands of it (can't blame them) and I have to tried to fix it. Has a complete lack of power, as it only does 95km/h (about 55 mph) flat out bobtail! The turbo barely makes a squeak and it's just so flat and unresponsive to drive it's ridiculous. To be honest it feels like the fuel lines and air filter are completely blocked(but they're not, done all those checks). Mechanically it's fine, had an in chassis rebuild in March and services and 2 top end checks and adjustments since then. Time to look at sensors, however not having a workshop manual or wiring diagram doesn't help. The co-pilot read out says it's at 100% engine load bobtail at about 1400 rpm and that matches where it stops pulling too, so I am pretty sure it is a bad sensor. But which one??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yep, doing just that. Took a peek only to see some know all sprouting off about the R model used in MAD MAX 2 being a V8 because it has 2 stacks and 2 air cleaners. I mean please........

Yeah speed, she's pretty close to the mark there, and if you want to save a bit of time looking, get on the fleetguard website and do a search by application, that is by truck make, model, engine model etc. I use it at work for queer stuff all the time, fork lifts and the like.

Much better. 10 outta 10. Nice subtle work truck look about it. I can see the Trident influence there. Be good to see them out here in Oz, one day, I hope......

It may have worked well in the US and Europe, but failed dismally in Australia. Examples are the Qantum, powered by the EA7-470 (same as the E7) with Eaton box and meritor diffs on Hendrickson HAS suspension. European cab and chassis, along with obligatory Euro-snot plumbing and 24volt electrics. Except the engine which kept ALL it's 12 volt electrics. Are we getting the picture here, bad, nasty hybrid. The other major catastrophe was the Magnum,(block of flats as we call 'em). Again French cab and chassis wrapped neatly around a Cummins Signature, Eaton box and all the rest as per previous effort. They were such a dismal failure, they are no longer sold here! P.S. Anyone want to buy a 1999 model Qantum, engine just had 2nd in chassis rebuild 30,000km ago, complete with factory fitted air leaks, cracking cab, cracked windscreen. All shockers replaced in last 18 months, all cab air bags replaced in last 2 years, most air valves rebuilt/replaced in last 2 years, new uni joints in last 3 months, L/H fuel tank has been welded at least 8 times, still leaks as per design spec., guaranteed no rust (plastic don't rust you see), new hydraulic lines on cab jack system 2 weeks ago, new cab ram last year (it bent), new gear linkage tube ( it bent too). Open to offers. See my picture gallery for scary pictures.

OK, cool, just wonder if I could get one registered and put a turntable on the back to do parcel express ......... and I do mean EXPRESS!!!!!

So what do ya reckon thaddeus, might start to see a couple emerging stateside now???

Ok, ask and ye shall recieve. Pictures from the drivers seat of the intakes.

Thanks for that. The air cleaner set ups were our little modification. The original was a single on its side. Yeah that road boss was something else. As I said K-19 @ 575, 15 sp overdrive and 44,000lb hendrickson rear end on 3.9 Rockwell SSHD's. He always wanted to get an aftermarket speedo because in his words "this damn speedo can't keep up with the truck!" As a tow truck it tared at 18 tonne which is about 39,600 lbs, but hell did it boogie.

This is getting ridiculous! Diesel here yesterday 18th April, 2008 is now AUD1.65 a litre. That's USD5.77 a US gallon!! how the hell is an owner driver supposed to make money with overheads like that!!!

One thing you should do if it's not already there is fit relay valves to the spring brake circuit. This allows faster actuating and release of the spring side of the chambers. When I restored my White 4000, I even put QR valves in the lines to ensure they actuated quickly. Nothing worse than thinking your park brake is on only to realise your still rolling a little. I have done a quick schematic of how you should plumb it all up if that's any help. I can't say what prices are like over in the US, but here in Australia 30/30 brake chambers are around $65 new each, relay valves about $120 and quick release valves about $25.

The "pink" '03 model has just turned over 1,000,000 km (600,000 miles) doing 3 trips a week of around 1,000km round trip, 620 km of each trip on the worst dirt road I have seen in a long time, the last 100km or so unable to go over 60 km/h (38 mph), pulling a double road train of acid tankers. The photos show the wear and tear. As for a blind spot, it's not that bad as the intakes line up pretty well with the "A" pillar.

Yeah as Rod said you need big volume of air at pressure to make it work. The air line from tank to starter is 1" inside dia. MINIMUM! You would need to join daisy chained air tanks with bigger size air line to stop any loss of flow. I can't recall any standard air tanks with 1" fittings or threads in them so that will kill that. The other bonus is that in the event of electrical failure, you can still start the engine with the solenoid valve and a pen! Yep a good old disposable writing stick stuck up under the valve will unseat it and allow a start. I have seen air start tanks mounted in the back of sleeper cabs on R models so they don't take up valuable space on the chassis.

Sounds like I might have to go bang some desks at our Volvo and Mack dealers. We are nearly 180 miles from the nearest one and I can't even get access to the website to look at tech publications. Why? " Because you're not an authorised dealer or workshop" is the standard reply. BUT, when it comes to fixing stuff these tossers have "never heard of", they are quite happy to talk on the phone and find out what took me 5 hours to diagnose and repair on my own WITHOUT a laptop and their software. All seems a bit one way to me.

At least you guys have a truck manufacturing industry over there. The only factories in Australia are Mack, Paccar (Kenworth) and Volvo, which are basically assembly plants. The partly assembled trucks are imported and finished off here. Except for Kenworth who import the components and assemble to order. See if you can find "Made in Australia" anywhere. LMAO. As for the economy, well ours isn't so bright either, heading the other way with inflation and cost of living spiralling upwards. Hopefully with the new Prime Minister things might settle a bit. Was amusing to see him in China last week telling a group of Uni students and the Chinese leaders exactly what he thought of Tibet and environmental issues. Not that they care I suspect. They'll just keep buying our coal and iron ore and churning out cheap exports. While their economy grows at a rate beyond belief, they won't give a s**t about long term problems it may cause.

Let me know what brand compressor it is and i can pm you the instructions for pulley bearing replacement. Is reasonably easy, you just need a puller that will use 2 5/16" bolts to pull the clutch off the shaft. As I said no need to de-gas.

Not sure about the original item, but I replace them with Sanden SD-7 compressors. They make a generic replacement for all different types of hose fittings. In Aus they are around 300 - 350 AUD. However, your problem sounds like the pulley bearing has seized, which can be replaced without de-gassing the system reasonably cheaply.