Mackpro

If it’s to the point of vibration and shake under a load pulling a hill we automatically pull all 6 injectors and cups , it comes in a kit

Also , at least your truck is a 2014 , injectors are available your yours . One of our 2008-2009 MP8 has be waiting for injectors since first week of August . They are finally supposed to ship out today but still have no tracking number. I believe there are 5 different MP8 injectors not counting common rail engines.

I vote cups as well. Unless no other visible leaks or damp spots in the fuel piping it’s always cups. Only 4 other things I have ever seen cause hard starting. 1 , fuel pressure relief valve that screwed in front of head . The updated one is really rounded on the end , the old style is flat all the way out to the end , takes a 7/8” wrench to replace. Yours being a 14 should have the new one . I had a 13 year model with the old one a couple weeks ago though. 2, fuel filter stand hand primer pump leaking when you pump on it. 3, tandem pump leaking at weep hole. The power steering pump and fuel supply pump are bolted together and there is a weep hole between them , if this is really wet or fuel dripping them it can cause hard starting , usually on trucks with 650,000plus miles. 4 , plastic fuel line connector at filter stand transition. The plastic fuel line from the fuel tanks quick connects to a fitting on a bracket on the filter stand. I’ve seen the factory zip tie the fuel lines so tight that in a hard pull the engine tilts and it pulls the fuel line back slightly and sucks air . Also a cracked plastic fuel fitting at fuel tank that was cracked by running over a deer. Now after all that is said. If your engine starts but dies after a few seconds then it could be leaking reman injectiors or a bad oil control valve for the engine brake .

When going from 350 to 460 on any ETECH style engine will at least require turbo and injectors. If it’s the first series of ETECH then the cam key will need to be replaced with a off set keyway or it will overheat in the summer. Also some of the ETECH 350 has a smaller vibration damper on them. Mack made us put the bigger damper on even if we bumped it to 400 HP. The CCRS and ASET series all use the straight cam key way regardless of HP rating. Yours being a 2002 could have either the regular ETECH or the CCRS engine. One way to tell the difference is regular ETECH has a plastic push on fuel return line coming off either the very front or very back to the cylinder head and goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the RH side of the engine block above the air compressor. I can have my guy pull up the build info and engine type . Just need the last 6 of VIN . Remember the ETECH . CCRS and ASET engines are just 11 liter engines. Comparing a 400 ETECH to a 400 CAT or Cummins are to wildly different animals.

Not as bad as the injector/cup issues in the MPs but close. At least the got close to getting the cam issues resolved. I was doing 3 cam jobs a week back then but I was barely 30 then . Id do good to get 2 done a week now.

The original fuel supply pump on the first couple of years on the ETECHS did have a key-wayed steel gear and never gave any problems. My favorite engine was the 2002 CCRS 427 . Now if I could get it with the Powerleash engine brake would be even better. I wish they would have bumped the displacement another 70-75 cubic inches and got it to a 13 liter and making a easy 500-525 HP

Manual trans or Allison or Mdrive?

Wow , I didn’t know that . The one I built was probably back in 2009

I tried that on a rusty Volvo the other night . I could not get it to clear. Had to pull the turbo and of course both bolts in the turbo broke off. Spent the rest of the night drilling and tapping the holes. At my old work I built a jig to bolt the turbo to so it would fit it in the drill press to drill out broken bolts, it was handy.

X 1000%

You talking about the EGR valve to EGR cooler elbow pipe? Sometimes I just had to walk away after trying to get that thing to seal after 5-6 tries. We made a couple of specialty tools to install and pressure test the connection.

Start with the simple stuff , battery cables being tight . Anything the bed Company added on the batteries ( electric tarp motor cables) . Is the engine dying or just derate/dead throttle pedal?

When the coolant got low the floating ring slid to the bottom of the expansion tank where it got stuck . After refilling with coolant the floating ring was still stuck to the bottom of the tank and now sets off the low coolant alarm. My theory at least. With low coolant codes I’ve had mostly wiring issues ( CHU mostly due to the way the wires are run) and faulty sensors coming in second. Only a few sticking floating rings . Another weird issue ive seen more than once. Driver puts DEF in the fuel tank, DEF eats up injector cup o-rings and now you got fuel in coolant/coolant in fuel. With a little DEF mixed in with the fuel and coolant it physically swells up the expansion tank and makes it look over pressurized.

That’s good that your ECM’s have the current software in them, it really helps in most cases. Mack always had us do the “Snap throttle test” where we would take the exhaust pipe off the back of the turbo and quickly floor the throttle pedal and you should only get a small puff of smoke for a second then clear. Large amount of smoke or continuous smoke could be EGR/turbo/boost issuses

No new bulletins on the P200200 code for common rail engines. There are bulletins for this code on the pre-common rail engines. Mainly making sure the software for the EMS and ACM are up to date and that the DPF filter is not passing any soot . Did you have the filters cleaned while they were off? What did the soot level drop to after regen? If the soot level dropped after regen, drive the truck 40 miles then reckeck soot level , did it rise only 20-30% or jump back to 90-100% or more. The PM sensors are junk and have been junk even after 4-5 updated sensors. This sensor only checks for soot passing through the DPF filter. Will not derate engine . Doing a regular (soot) regen, at about the 75% complete mark , the outlet nox reading will be about 1/3 of the inlet. For example 900ppm inlet vs 300ppm outlet.

On your truck all the sensors and sending units are wired to the engine ecm ( EECU) or vechicle ecm ( VECU). The EECU and VECU send the info on the high speed data link to the dash cluster. There are no individual wires from the sensors/sending units to the dash cluster/guages .

We have nothing that old in our scrap/ junk/ wrecked bone yard out back . We have 3 trucks down now due to no parts available. I’ll ask around and see Monday if anything is available at my old work

Theses were 600,000 mile trucks

I looked at 2 different wiring diagrams for for a 2003 CCRS engine and got two wildy different answers. One shows the wake up wire and one didn’t . None of the PIN numbers matched each other on the power and grounds so I’m of no help.

There is a “wake up” wire from VECU to the EECU. I’ll see if I can find the PIN numbers

If your EGR is deleted I wouldn’t go above 440 HP. Export MP8 engines with no EGR /DPF or DEF we’re limited to 440 HP. The Mexican Volvos running around here are D13 (same as MP8). They have EGR but no DPF/DEF and they are at 465HP. The fully deleted 445-455 and 505’s around here have suffered from cracked/chipped exhaust valves which wiped out the turbocharger as well. I’ve personally replaced 3 cylinder heads/turbos on deleted MP8’s .

I was thinking same thing , use the ASET AC turbo actuator air supply filter/filter base to ensure clean air the the AHI. This is so important now because AHI modules are on a 3 month back order.

I was just thinking of the camshaft on the way to work. While the hollow pressed together camshaft is nice and saves weight . We have had to replace one in of our early common rail engines. Maybe machine them for a keyway so the lobes wont slip. I like the new set up with the lightweight camshaft because it does away with the big camshaft vibration damper/balancer at the rear. This allows more room for repairs on things like upper timing cover R&R and camshaft timing .

You have the electric viscous or the air fan clutch? If air , fuse 41 in the fuse box out on the fire wall supplies 12 volts to solinoid , the ground returns to J1 pin 9 as you said . The J1 connection is the top connector on a CV as the engine ecm is on its side. Fuse 41 also powers the pto and torque limit harness on to of the trans, as well as the freon high pressure switch

As FJH said , a true high pressure common rail fuel system. Put the high pressure pump where the optional REPTO PTO goes as I rarely see this used. Make the EGR valve and cooler easier to remove/replace. A separate air filter for the AHI as no one changes their air drier cartridge anymore and this the cause of 90% of AHI failures. More/better insulation on the chassis wiring harness. Re-program to where the engine won’t won’t derate when a ABS fault occurs.