Lmackattack

I saw two things this week that made me laugh.. first was a truck that was making a right. 30mph, about 300' before his turn He put his right signal on. As he got close to his turn he moved over a little to the left so he could make his swing. Car behind him was going to Gun it past on his right but he swung right and the car slammed into his trailer tire/ICC bar. trucker did not even see it happen and kept going on his way. No damage to the trailer but the car had a F*&ed up bumper and hood from the ICC bar. the other was last night. Driving down a 55mph 2 lane road last night when I see a firetruck heading my way with all 350+ of his bright LED lights flashing. I slow down and move right. pick up truck that was following about 1/8 mile behind me never slowed for the fire truck so after the fire truck passed me I just pulled back out infront of him (doing about 15 mph coming off the side of the road) That guys had some real good brakes and his horn was really loud almost as loud at that fire truck! I was going to ask him where he bought them but he seemed a little mad for some reason?

Rob not sure if this will help but When I removed the manual box and installed my power steering box I just used my trucks stock draglink/pitman arm. the output splines of the new power steering box were the same for the stock pitman arm. After installed it was pointing to about "6 o'clock" when the wheels were pointed straight. I did not need to source diffrent parts for the swap. Basicly you need to check if the draglink from the Valueliner is the same length as the one on your RL? the only thing I can think that would make it diffrent is that you may have a diffrent front engine support and rad support and the new box may be located a few inches +/- of where it normaly bolt to. on my RS I had to drill 2 or 4 new holes (cant recall)in the rail and add 1/2" washers to 2 of those holes because of where my engine/rad mount was at. Luckly my mount had indents in them to note where to drill holes for a power steering box. I can get pics if it helps Trent

give it a chance... one of "our very own" is trying to get this show off the ground. I think it will do good if they can keep the public intrested. I do think the guy hosting is a little hyper but he at least has the ability to communicate "our" intrests to the genral public. Personaly I would like to see more specific details such as a in cab ride of what its like to back into a hard spot in traffic. or what its like to get cought at a red light when you just got cut off by a car. Something that shows how hard it really is to drive a truck. If you can get these shots in a movie truck it just shows what real truckers have to deal with. I did like the comments about how the EPA is killing everthing and how much it has hurt trucking. just my .02 hope it will continue.

They guy that gave me my first trucking job recently bought one of the LTL9000 and uses it for his tractor trailer end dump. always like the look of them!

Welcome to the site john Regarding your truck let me try R Rmodel W Western S Steel frame 7 2 (these numbers noted weight and engine family) 1 L lightweight componets ST six wheel tractor or semi tractor (IIRC the notes changed around a little)

well thats good news. lets cross our fingers

my first and only convention was back in 05' at Auburn IN (north east part of the state) when I came around the corner and saw over a thousand trucks I started acting like I had just seen my first set of boobs! you know the feeling...dumb stare, drool running out your mouth, almost driving over people. The east and midwest draws a big crowd of mixed trucks. West coast is all Paccar for the most part.

Was hoping to go with the RS700 but we will see what work has planned for me....

Phil at Global Truck Traders came thru with the alum air tank I needed for my RS700L. tank was in said condition and in my hands 2-3 days later. Thats service! Great price and will do buisness with him again. thanks again Phil!

I also used Phil to sorce some parts. He contacted me after I placed an Ad here looking for an air tank. he was a big help. parts were in hand 2 days after He called me. Thanks Phil!

I have never pulled a RV with a Semi but I would think a spring ride truck would be kinda harsh on the trailer. I would be more worried about the contence inside. I think a air ride hitch and lower the tire press would do the trick to soften the shock. when I bobtail to truck shows I sometimes lower all the tires to around 40psi and it reduces the bounce a little.

looks like alot of maintance is needed to keep them operating correctly. also looks like it would be easy to get hurt or mess up with the starter button LOL.... that first truck hauling the "Load" of top soil...Ummmm, my spread pan holds that much.. LOL

those guys are faster than some of the 22'End dump guys I see around here. LOL

I see alot of them used out west but recently seen a few here in IL. Mostly dumpsters on both the truck and pup. Not sure if they are dropping off empty dumpsters or picking up loaded or both? Makes sence to be able to drop or grab 2 when the truck is out tho....

LATE 70S-EARLY 80S MUST HAVE BEEN MOVING PRETTY GOOD TO GET THE STONES OVER THE HOOD!!! THATS TO BAD BUT GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT...

ONLY IF THEY ADDED 6+ INCHES TO EXTEND THE CAB WALL BACK FURTHER!!!!.

yep seen that happen on my truck but my joints were taking grease so I thought they were ok. Then one day I went to the pit to get a load of sand. pulled up on the scale and could hear a creaking sound. Got off the scale and felt the u joint and it was hot to the touch. Drove it nice and slow to the yard 5 miles away. it was smoking hot by now. but that helped push it out!

I was afraid of that. IMO the 2 part seals are junk...untill you need to replace a leaky one then they are nice that you dont have to pull the trans! LOL

1977 285 tip turbine...Thinking about pulling the pan soon to check the rods and mains. Never had it off yet. Truck holds 30 psi of oil press at warm idle but it never gets above 45 psi when its warmed up running down the road at full RPM. Cold start it slowly comes up to 60 psi and never higher. just dont like that low of press as all the other macks I drove held about 55 psi running down the road. Will likely replace the oil pump while in there also. Wondering if the rear main seal can be replaced with the pan off? is it a 2 part seal. I cant recall and its been 10 years the last time I did a rear main. at that time the trans was off and the engine was apart...

Your correct David. I will have the braces ready to install after a few mods are made so they clear everthing. I also need to weld tabs to the radiator cage to accept the braces. I will be useing R model braces with the rubbers to soften the shock. the upper "X brace and hood rest bump rubbers will be removed and rollers installed. Hood already has the channels for the rollers to ride in. Really not to big of a swap. was just waiting to find afordable used Mack parts for the job. This Truck really rides hard bob tail or loaded. Harder than most R models I have driven. Its got a 206" WB but likes to buck over small bumps. Hopefully the air ride cab will sofen that. All the superliners I drove with camelbacks rode pretty good bob tail with the big single bag. With a trailer I thought they rode very well and still gave a positive feel to the truck.

I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS!

thanks for that info. Looks like the CH (non sleeper) will work for my RS700L Im making a air ride cab set up out of used CH parts and my stock RS700 parts. Just needed to know what hight the cab should sit and if the hight was about the same. THANKS AGAIN

anyone know if the superliner and CH cab air ride bags are close to the same bag size and ride hight?. Im looking at a CH bag set up if It will work. I think the Superliner has a 7" ride hight... what does the CH ride at?

Happy Birth day Barry. thanks for all you do for us

The 2" gauge covers I used are United Pacific #20550. The larger tach and speedo covers are United Pacific #20554. Fyi...If intrested they have a part number for the bezels with visors... Some of my newer gauges had a wider lip so I had to use a Dremil sanding wheel to remove a little plastic meterial from the inside of the covers. Some fit just perfect? The ones I had to mod do fit tight over them now and a dab of clear silicone (allowed to dry before instaled) around the inside of the cover allows then to grab the gauge nice and tight. The tach and speedo also fit tight I did nothing to them.... hope that helps Trent