Lmackattack

not that this will help much with why your truck is feeling sluggish but at work I drive a 2002 355/370HP with a mack 9 speed/4.17 and it will easily out pull all the other trucks with 350 macks/10 speeds. the 10 speed is just a horrible trans in my opinion. the gear spacing is poor in some gears and fine in others where a 8LL, 9 speed, 13 or 18 seam to have better spacing and faster shifts allowing the engine to keep pulling in the rpm range in likes. I never liked a 10 speed

Thinking of installing 2 load lights on the rear wall of the granite I drive. Looking to remove the current light seen in the picture and drill a hole to recess a load light in its place Then do the same on the driver's side. Hopeful I dont need to remove the cab back interior as I can feed wires thru from outside. Are there any braces in the rear wall structure that prohibit cutting a hole in these part of the cab?

If you are staying local with your truck and you have a mack dealer near you, you will be fine with mack rears. If you are over the road you might consider eaton or Meritor simply for parts availability when out on the road. Also If your truck has a dump bed or other body mounted to the frame know that mack rears have to come out from above where others can slide out from under the truck. that can make a big diffrence in servicablity reasons. If you do go with mack rears I strongly suggest to avoid going with Macks automatic powerdivider. Get a manual power divider and manual full locking main diff so that the truck has good traction with the air ride. Mack rears are good but I kinda lean towards off breed just for parts cost reasons. Mack seams to be the highest price for parts out of all the truck mfg out there. then the parts shortages that seam to come with Mack. not sure if other mfg have the same issues but I know Pete never had issues getting me parts where Mack often did. Im in chicagoland so We have just about every dealer ship around here plus parts warehouses

I have noticed that as well. No one can tell why some may have it and others dont.

the springs are definatly thicker than my 34k. the no transverse rod has me scratching my head. I thought 38k and above used them? this truck sees only a few hundreed miles a year and I have no clue the history of it.

And while were here can you ID the rear rating? It looks like a welded axle im thinking 38K?

Thanks Guys the mechanic put them in. and the bottom caps seam to tighten down fine on the spring. I have seen most of the 38k and higher camelback have these installed but the younger mechanics said they never saw them on the Macks they worked on.. This truck is kinda odd as mack doesent show them on the build sheet and the rears look like 38K or heavier but I honestly dont know what rating they are. It doesent have the transverse rod which I thought all 38k and above had at least one rod on the rear rear axle? I do know the aluminum caps dont use them but I think they were only used on 34K camelback like my 77' western has

This truck did not have the black t.Blocks in the end caps. We bought an atro kit that came with them. Is it safe to install the t blocks To help prevent side to side movement? Some of the mechanics said they've never seen them.However I have. This is on a roll off truck.

How hard is it to convert from an automatic mack power divider to a manual activated power divider. 2002 CV713, 4.17 mack rears on mack air ride. The current auto power divider does not engage. Truck has 155k and its already worn out. It gets stuck leaving paved gas station parking lots if you stop on the apron. Don't even get me started how it does in the easy basic off road. And fyi 😎 I'm not interested in hearing why the mack automated power divider should work good. In a perfect world they work great.However, we're not in a perfect world. This is a dump truck and it should have reliable traction be it spring or air ride. Every spring ride mack i have driven or owned with the auto power divider failed prematurely or was out performed by a manual activated divider on air ride. Thats why I would like to know if its just swaping the input housing and its components and cutting a new drive shaft length or if a thru shaft has to be replaced as well. Thank you

Well im at it again. My passenger door Is on the fritz again. Another New latch and new catch. Thats twice in 10 years and the truck has only moved a handful of times. It was like this when I bought it and has never improved even with new parts Door shuts around frame perfectly but I only get one click and then it rattles like crazy. If I slam the door it might rotate the latch to get 2 clicks maybe once out of 50 trys but you have to slam it and then it won't open unless you bang on the inside with a rubber mallet. I have tried adjusting the catch in the door frame but it only gets worse the more I mess with it and then the door can pop open when driving because again it only gets one click and not 2 when shutting it. I think my catch was not installed in the door frame when this truck was new? What can I possibly be missing?

I think my water pump is slowly dying? Weep hole is wet and I hear a whine that keeps getting louder the longer i run it.,So I figured I'd replace it as the current one was bought used 20 years ago. I plan to rebuild it but for a test I bought this pump on Amazon for about $150 and going to give it a shot. Hope to install it next week and see how it holds up. RAREELECTRICAL Water Pump https://a.co/d/9S2YtW2 Just wondering if anyone has used these with any luck.

I currently have a factory reman 631gc50106x Is there a modern replacement Turbo that will work for my application. I would assume there is a more efficient turbo to replace this old dinosaur

Haven't gone out to the store yet. Was going to pick your guys brains first to hear any real life opinions on the cl75 or any other options I may have

If they make a better modern clutch that simply replaces a CL75 I'm all ears. But just don't want to have to swap flywheel or other expensive parts if it's just to get a higher rated clutch if it will never see more than 1200 ft lbs

I have not considered anything because I literally know nothing about what clutch fits or can be retrofitted. I'm just trying to keep it simple as this truck will never see more than 285-300hp. I just want a bolt on and go. If there is a reason to swap flywheel I will but if it's not necessary I wont. I