MACKTRUCKS4

When I pulled the tranny out of my RW, I did not have to remove the floor pan. My truck has a E9, I don't think the pan has to come out for the E6 either. The superliner cabs sit a lot higher on the frame.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...tem1c18412e26 If someone is looking for a nice superliner camper, this would be it!

You won't see any new Macks for Penndot. I heard they lost the contract for any more trucks. Does anyone out there know for sure if that's true?

Anyone looking for a nice b-model truck needs to check this out. http://www.town.swan...5-3C0B277B9495}

When I changed my transmission from a 9 sp. to a 12 sp., I had to move the round support bar that goes across the top of the transmission from cab mount to cab mount. The holes were already there. I don't know if that is the mount you are talking about, or is the cross member that holds the air ride cab mount in the way? My truck has an E-9.

Do you know where the CL chassis came from? I was watching one on BigTruckSalvage that sold for $8,600 that needed a cab and hood. The truck was in Maine and had 1,100,000 miles on it. Thanks, Mike

I had an older V-8 that I did that to and it worked. I already tried that by taking them apart to clean them with no luck.

I need a hood for a superliner I'm building. 1988 with square headlights. I was looking at Jones Performance. Did anyone every buy one of their hoods? I was wondering how they fit. If anyone one has an OEM they would like to sell, please contact me.

I have all the dynatard parts and want to sell them. I sent you a PM.

Air filter gauge is showing 10 on hard pulls, (I don't think that is high). Red line is 30 on the gauge. Stats are new. About three weeks ago, a clamp between the turbo and cooler broke, blowing the tube off. I did notice a small amount of oil in the tube. I wonder if there is enough oil in the cooler to block the tubes up? Causing lower boost. As for the fan test, do you put the cardboard between the rad. and the fan? and does that direct the hot air to the fan hub? do you rev the motor up?

Now my truck is starting to run hot. My V-8 Superliner is acting up. On long hard pulls, the temp. goes up to 220 with the oil temp reaching 230. When I level off, the water temp. comes down to 200, but the oil temp, takes a lot longer. I changed the clutch fan because I could not hear it lock up when it should. I still can't hear it lockup with the new one on. I do run dual open stacks so it is loud, maybe I just can't hear it. Does anyone know how to test the clutch fan? Maybe I have an oil cooler problem? The motor is fresh, pulls hard, pyremeter never goes past 1000. Turbo boost hits 27lbs. at max. The motor is turned up to around 650Hp. but never gave me problems of heating up. Lately it has bin using a little anti-freeze. No outside leaks, no signs of where it is going. Oil shows no sign of water in it. I think maybe I have a cracked head or a blown head gasket. I am going to do a exhaust gas check on the anti-freeze to find out for sure.

Awhile back I had my cam reground in my 1994 E-7 400, one of the lifters went bad. The motor had a Dynatard on it and I replaced it with a Jake. From what I gather that cam was ground for a Dynatard from the factor. Now the problem I have is seems the Jake does not work like it does on my 2000 V-MAC III, which was built from the factory. It seems to work as good as the Dynatard did, which was not that good. I set the valves as I should for a Jake, but when I turned over the motor to go to the next valve in order, I went back to the other valves that I already set, and it seemed they were really loose ( like they were going to make noise, but they didn't) I was wonding if the valves should be set differently? I went over the valves twice to make sure I did them right and I'm sure I did. Could the settings on the Jake be tightened up to make the Jake work better? Like say .060" I have the setting on the slave piston set at .080" as per Jacobs installation chart. Oil pressure is 30lbs @ idle and 60lbs. @2000RPM. The Jake I used was a new set-up, so I don't think it needs to be rebuilt. Model is a 680B

I will be there on Saturday for sure. I might get talked into taking my superliner down, don't know yet.

We tested the anti-freeze for exhaust gases today and the test came back negative twice. Turbo has about 20,000 miles on it. The water pump was replaced about 50,000 miles ago. We will pull it off to check it. Does anyone know how much clearance should be between the impeller and the housing? Than if all else fails, we will pull the radiator out and have it cleaned.

Pyrometer peaks out at 1000 on the hardest pulls. I forgot to mention, the clutch fan was replaced and now you can hear the fan kick in around 195, but that did not help. The heater does blow hot. We checked for any leaks outside the head gaskets, none were found. No water in the oil. Belts are tight.

A friend has a 79 R model 10 wheeler dump, with a 1984 300 2 valve with a tip-turbine. Lately it's bin running hot on hard pulls. Radiator looks good, changed thermostat, coolant looks good, and we put a gauge on the intake to see if there was a leak. Boost needle is steady up to 20 pounds but when it passes 20 going up to 25, the needle starts bouncing all over the gauge. Is this a sign that there is a leak? or should we look somewhere else? This truck never ran hot before. I first thought it was the gauge, but it is steady up to 20 pounds and after that , starts bouncing.

Thanks for all the tips. GreenGiant2- I got the cam reground, resurfaced 11 lifters and bought 1 new. I put everything back together a few weeks ago, what a messy job. I think if I do it again, I will roll the truck on it's side so I can work on it from the sides instead of going under the dripping motor. LOL Total cost was around $600.00 for everything. Better than $2,100.00 just for a new cam and lifters!!!!!!!!!! Trucks runs good.

Looks like it's time to replace my turbo on my V-8 Superliner. I have the pump turned up and now I want to put a bigger turbo on it. Does anyone know what to put on it as far as size, make , and where to get it? I run the truck every day so I don't want to get too carried away, something that will live on the street. Maybe one step up from stock.

Mackpro68, what is this keyway you are talking about? I have a 2000 RD, 400 that I put superflow injectors in to give me 490Hp. It does run hot in the hot summer days. What is involved with putting it in? Is it a stepped key that you put in place of the stock key? Changing the cam to crank timing. What would you ask for at the dealer for part number?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-Mack-Magnum-end-Dump-Truck-no-box_W0QQitemZ200443416062QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCommercial_Trucks?hash=item2eab5bcdfe This truck just sold on ebay. I don't know how this one slipped by under the radar!!!!! WOW $3,500. Maybe the pictures will help.

Oh yah!!!!!, I had more oil on me than the oil pan did. The best thing to do is remove the pan and let sit a week to let all the oil drip off.

I did mine in the truck. I used lubriplate grease, very thick. Worked just fine. A little tough getting up inside, just had to keep turning the crank to get room. I tried to borrow the magnets from my locale mack dealer but they were using them, go figure.

I pulled my cam out of my 94 E-7 and mailed it yesterday to Camcraft. They are in SC. I talked to Charles and he said $250 to regrind my cam and weld 1 lobe. Also $13 to resurface each lifter. One of my lifters lost the hard-facing which is welded to the lifter. Really not lost because I found it in the oil pan. I priced out a new cam and lifters which came to $2,100 plus $99 a core for each lifter that is no good. Big savings. Shipping was $40 one way. I have to buy one new lifter which is $126 plus a core of $99. WOW!!!!!!!! Charles has about 250 mack cams waiting to get reground. 2 days shipping. 1 day to regrind and 2 days return shipping. If you can wait, this is the way to go. He needs the part number because he has some cams in stock.

Thanks, 1987 RW, V-8 pushing 650 Hp. 12 speed. Both Rd's are 490 Hp. I love my horsepower.

Talked to Charles today. He wasn't much help with a bigger cam. He said I will have to get the cam out and take it from there. He needs the part number off the cam. He said he has a friend at Mack that will be able to help him with what cam has more lift and duration. A regrind is $150 per lobe and $60 to weld a lobe. They do all the cam repairs for Mack Corp.