h67st

1 hour ago, harrybarbon said:

Yes Orville did make the sleeper cabs for all the Eastern US truck manufacturers, by modifying the new bare metal day cabs. which the manufacturers sent to Orville plus new panels and parts as required. Orville did the complete extension and painted the bare cabs, the painted cabs were then sent back to the manufacturer for completion.

I have copies of Orville original factory pictures and hand written notes, by one of the ex serviceman who worked at Orville after WW2, of how they extended the cabs.

Problem is that I cannot post attachments, I have asked what I can do but no answers.

You have the attachments saved as .jpg files? Are they under 1 mg (1000 kb) size? If they're too big most photo software will let you resize them smaller. If so you should be able to drag and drop into the "attachments" box. If you can't, you could try a different browser. I usually use Firefox but it doesn't work well with photo files so I switch to Chrome so I can attach photos.

On 9/18/2021 at 6:27 AM, 1961H67 said:

Great Job your doing on the H Model,, It’s good to see someone restoring one , you really don’t see that many ! I have had a H67 for years, it was bought new here in North Carolina, then some friends of mine got it in the 70s to pull a lowboy, I got it and painted it and did a “ Half “ Restoration, I stretched it and made a rollback, I still use it , if there’s something I can help you with , let me know, ( It looks like you know more about a H then me , Great Work) ! I know a guy that has 2 that needs restoring, not sure what his plans are . 

It's good that you still use it, so many are sitting back in the weeds rusting into the ground. Thank you!

This one's got headers on it so I'll bet it's really fast.

On 9/14/2021 at 7:51 AM, steve s. said:

You're doing a great job, truck looks excellent. Would you be willing to share the part numbers for the cab jack repair parts? My H 63 jack is bad, and I haven't been able to identify it. You might have noticed in the Mack owners manual that it states that the cab should be supported by something other than the hydraulic system when working under it. I usually stick a 4x4 underneath for that purpose. It fits nicely into a small slightly dented area under the cab, where I guess others before me did the same thing. It would be a shame to scratch up your nice new paint that way, but maybe you could come up with a better idea. 

Sure! My pump is an Ausco DP-148, the kit number is 02275 from Lazzar's. They also have diagrams of the assembly on their website. The vee packing for the cylinders is VS10004X112. I got them locally but there are websites that sell them. You're right on the safety prop, it could save your life if something gave out.

30 minutes ago, Draggin Wagon said:

Give me advance notice on test run and I'll ride the old Draggin Wagon up and run interference for you.

Fuzzy Buzzard said that  

Great! Still have a long way to go, many hoses, wires, lights, seats, etc. to install.

You also could have used the name Large SUV.

That is a fine-looking truck, and the workmanship is flawless.

On 9/14/2021 at 5:07 AM, tjc transport said:

the posted link is for the 27 AC. 

Whoops! I changed the link, sorry about that!

In SW Ohio...looks to be a tractor, seems like there aren't many AC tractors out there. $47,000--big money.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/895229057750833/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Integral sleeper in Danville VA on FB marketplace. He calls it an Orrville sleeper; did Orrville make the sleeper cabs for the B models? Looks like a good candidate for restoration, asking $4,500.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/536859097762073/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

I've got an 18 year old Bolens (MTD) lawn tractor I bought from Lowe's; it's a 20 hp with 42" mower deck. I was changing the oil and found this crack in the frame. I was going to just replace the tractor but I don't put many hours on it and it's in surprisingly good shape...the only thing I've ever done to it is change the belts and blades. My brother had a John Deere LA135 and this Bolens is actually heavier and better built than his. I cut and drilled a piece of flat bar, that should take care of it.

I like this truck, it's got the sleeper, bulldog, and it's a good looking rig. Of course, like most Smith Miller models I can't afford it ($2,500).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284446292322?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&autorefresh=true

6 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

I understand the desire to paint under the various attachments for corrosion control, was wondering why, instead if just painting these spots for now you didn't paint the entire frame and THEN put the attachments back on. One advantage I suppose to doing it that way is if you want all the bolts painted in concert with the frame.

I painted my chassis mostly together, but now I'm bolting on battery box, cab jack, etc...of course I end up scratching the paint and the bolts aren't painted. If you paint it apart, you can spray in all those tight spots but then you have to assemble it which is a different problem.

Where did you get the chrome center caps...did you have those chromed?

10 hours ago, mowerman said:

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo my god,,,,i havent seen one of those in years,,,as a kid,there was still quite a few of them around.......painting always makes you feel good,its like your own personal pat on the back,for all your preparation efforts...excellent.bob

When I was a kid back in the 70's my dad's drivers would wire up the wig-wag so it wouldn't bother them, I would get in the trucks in the afternoon and take the wires off. They were probably pissed at me!! It's funny how your perspective changes from when you're young to when you've been around a while.

Great attention to detail! I sure like to see your photos when you post them.

They did use smaller dogs on the ash trays, but with yours being so rough you may be correct that it's a knockoff. I have a couple small dogs and they are very smooth.

In the US, most commonly called a trolley valve or Johnson bar.

You don't see many of those FWD with the "large car" style hood on them.