h67st

The wheels I have are all pretty badly cracked, and I don't want to mortgage my house to get one recast. If anyone has a decent one they'll sell please let me know. Otherwise I guess I'll have to putty it up and paint it. If you have any tips on fixing the cracks, please post them.

Sounds like you're going to be in Exile!  😉

14 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Do you have a link or something, I  dunno what to look for for what page

Here's the link.

Western F model!! I'm jealous, you have a cool truck there. I'm glad to see you're giving it TLC.

That looks like a nice truck...if it runs good then $15k is a great price.

Just looking at the photos, it looks like some decent work has been done. Of course, you'd have to put some eyes on it to see how it really is.

I like the odd assortment of bolts in the scab plate, like they used whatever they had in their tool box drawer to put it together (and the soft flat washers).

2 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I bought a ratio adapter off ebay years ago.  Not expensive.

Using the numbers 6/13= .46

Try to find that ratio adapter?  Or close to it.

I got the 6/13 off a chart that specs which to use for which transmission and diff ratio. Do you suppose that was so you could just use a 1:1 adapter?

14 hours ago, mowerman said:

Speedometer shop they usually have everything you need although these days I don’t know where are you would find one good luck

On the Mack Museum website, the old truck parts supplier list shows Bob's Speedometer Svc. in Howell MI. There's also Deluxe Speedometer and Cable Svc. in Denver.

I need to get the 90 degree adapter for the transmission to hook the cable to; my parts manual tells me to use a 6T drive gear and 13T driven gear which I assume would be behind the yoke and I don't want to take that apart. I hate to buy a 1:1 adapter and find out it's wrong, I'm sure they cost a few dollars. Anybody got an idea how to figure out if I need a different ratio adapter?

14 hours ago, Bullheaded said:

I sthat a Silver 92 emblem I see on the twin steer? Wouldn't that be an obnoxious beast driving through town now!!! I love it!

Some of those mixers have low rears and lots of gears, with a Detroit you could really shift fast when you're empty going downhill!

Great to hear about their hard work! When I was a senior in high school, I went to school in the morning and worked in the truck shop at Cat in the afternoon. It was a great experience for me, I'll never regret it.

Now you can change the front letters to GMC (Got My Chain).

Do they look like this? AgKits has PAI gaskets for $6.62 each.

https://www.agkits.com/mack-exhaust-manifold-gasket-573gb257a.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqN3M5f659AIV2P6zCh1_eg1hEAQYAiABEgKexPD_BwE#.YaLmxbpOnIU

On 11/12/2021 at 10:26 PM, Zebo said:

I am looking for a passenger windshield for a cruiseliner.  Does anyone here m ow where I could find one?

You tried the sources that kscarbel and ws721 posted above?

Looks like a pretty nice truck, says it's a rare heavy spec unit. I'll bet it was pretty slow pulling a heavy load with that gas engine, but then again most trucks were slow in 1939.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154694354899?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

What you're saying about the one-way jack sounds right...you'd have no way to pull the cab back past the "over center" point if you did take it 90 degrees.

Watts had the chrome ones too but they were about $30 each.

These were pretty common back in the day, but I don't have any info on them.

On 10/27/2021 at 8:41 PM, D2Denny said:

H67st.  See your in the Johnstown area. Are you a member of the BVH and do you run with Don Martin and Dan Vaness a couple of the big time truck collectors in the area??

Larry   Since you switched over to air start do you have a schematic of the system? The H has an air starter and it won't hold air for 30 minutes. Have to start troubleshooting it. Might consider switching to electric if much cost involved in repairing what I have.

 

I'm a member of BVH but I don't get to all the shows, I've seen those guys but don't know them personally.

My air start system had some leaks, one thing I did was put a new ball valve on the tank outlet so when the truck is going to be sitting I can shut it off. Mowerman is right, you could look at the check valve...also soap the fittings or listen for leaks with a stethoscope hose.

6 hours ago, carlotpilot said:

why would floor pan replacement come into play where repairing a foot valve is the issue?

The foot valve is bolted into the pan, if the pan is rusted out there's nothing to hold the valve. Rick, I don't know your particular truck but pans are usually welded in.

On 10/23/2021 at 10:43 AM, D2Denny said:

Thanks for all your comments. Got a call into Tom Pierce on this. Been friends with him since his “Big John” restoration. Also no maxi conversion possible without major changes as the RA91 axle has the chambers directly below and up against the springs. 

I have the SWDL56 rears on my H67, it had the brake chambers up against the frame rails so I couldn't use maxis. I saw some trucks that had the spiders rotated one bolt hole to put the brake chamber below the frame rail, I don't know if this would work on yours but as long as your parking brake is in good shape you'll be fine with it.

Looks like it's coming along nicely! Good to have a helper.

I want to mount my air horn...the cab roof is curved so I will need a gasket that will fill a pretty decent gap. Has anybody found some foam rubber or something that will hold up long-term for mounting stuff to the roof?