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Posts posted by h67st
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On 4/24/2021 at 7:39 PM, Brocky said:
The Name Freightliner opposed to White Frtlnr started in late 1977 with the 1978 model year., due to the removal of the White dealership contract due to White Motor going belly up... I do Not know exactly when the Powerliner came out???
According to Freightliner, the Powerliner came out in 1973.
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The check valves are in the lift pump; if you replaced the whole pump that would fix them. My hand primer pump was bad, causing loss of prime but maybe you already replaced it. I found my leak by removing the lines at the fuel tank, plugging them off, and putting 10 psi air into them...fuel started seeping out of the primer so that showed where the problem was.
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I'm with you on the looks of the 10:00-20, I think the vintage look is cool. The lock rings and tubes are a hassle, but I'm still going to run them on my truck. I agree with others that radial steers/bias drives should be no problem.
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I'd hate to be in that thing in a wreck!!
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I put the cab on the other day, here's a video of the process.
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I had new bushings pressed into the front spring hangers for the cab pivot bar, of course the hangers didn't come out exactly square with each other once I bolted them on. I bought this handy sanding drum for my drill from McMaster Carr for $4.00, it made short work of ovalling the holes to get the bar to fit.
The bar is 1" diameter, but the center tube is 1-1/8" ID so I knew there'd be much rattling going on there. I looked around for something to fill up the space, an old plastic tailpiece from a kitchen sink drain filled the bill. I slotted it on my table saw to make it small enough, and it's springy enough to hold itself in place while I install the bar.
Here's the bar and cab brackets all installed.
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Unusual looking truck on ebay. Needs lots of work.
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Those panels look great! That's a really nice red, looks almost candy apple.
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That is an unusual scheme, no idea why they'd do that.
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18 hours ago, davehummell said:
You were lucky I went to two different injection repair shops and called all over the place and I found no help on my old 673 pump and injectors. I finally tracked down Keven All and I bought good parts from him. Your truck is looking very good.
Thank you! Yeah, I was actually surprised to find this shop...a couple of people I know recommended them. It's Purrformance Diesel in Fredericktown Ohio.
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21 hours ago, hicrop10 said:
What shade of red paint are you using,looks great.
Thanks! It's Axalta 77968 which is their match for classic Mack 400 red. I like it too!
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I meant to post these photos earlier...I had the pump and injectors rebuilt at a local shop, they charged $1,100 to rebuild the pump and $500 for the injectors. Looks like they paid a lot of attention to detail and the truck seems to run well (that is, without a load on it).
I painted a bunch of parts.
Some of those parts installed.
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On 4/7/2021 at 9:25 AM, fjh said:
Does anyone know why GM still makes GMC / Chevy same truck different trim ! Volvo/Mack Same truck Different Cab and hood!
Marketing strategies I guess! Its been going on for years firebird ,Camaro , chevlle/ boulmont just to name a few!
I think you're right about the marketing strategies--GMC advertises more of a "professional" angle, Chevy more like a personal truck. Pontiac aimed more toward comfort, Chevy the more basic cars. But as you say, same vehicle, different image.
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22 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:
We used to joke about the non-turbo 673s in the B-61s we had. Seems they would run about as fast downhill as they would uphill. Not very.
I read online a while back that a guy drove a 673 duplex back in the day, he said you needed all 10 gears because a toothpick would pull the thing down!
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I looked at my parts trucks, one of them had a pulley with a lot less wear. The belts sit up in the top of the grooves and vibrate less now. The part number on it is 302GC2187A; they are still available from PAI.
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13 hours ago, Joey Mack said:
is the back half a 2 axle car trailer?
Yes, that's right.
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This is one of the ugliest trucks I've ever seen; sadly someone put a lot of time into building it. It's got a Toronado motor/trans setup with front wheel drive... it may need some TLC.
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The 42000 at the end of the ad is probably the asking price.
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1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:
If you just sit the same belt in each groove and check how much it protrudes from the groove I think would give a good indication if the pulley is badly worn I would of thought, totall open to correction
Paul
The belts sit down into the sheaves on the WP pulley, the pulley is definitely worn. Anybody know a part number or where I can get a new pulley? I will definitely try to get a matched pair of belts--I've seen those in the past.
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Pretty dang nice looking truck; this photo is before bed was installed. I see it has a gold engine in it, and I like the sign on the left front tire in the ebay pictures. Asking $50,000 obo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133711225856?ul_noapp=true&autorefresh=true
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9 hours ago, mowerman said:
I also loose prime but I haven’t done anything to the lines (very ) old plus the primer leaks that engine sounds great no Smoke nice work bud thanks for sharing With us good luck with the prime issue . Bob
It actually does smoke but I had some round duct clamped to the exhaust pipe, carrying the smoke outside.
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On 3/31/2021 at 3:49 PM, Vladislav said:
Congrats on the first start!
Didn't you bother the injection lines so they kept fuel in the injectors? Looked like pretty easy start for newly assembled fuel system.
I primed it before starting...had to fill the fuel filter and pour fuel in the inlet line before the primer would pick it up. I'll have to check out the valves.
9 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:Old belts can definitely cause "flutter". So can off-center, bent or unevenly-worn pulleys (sheaves).
I put new belts on but the WP pulley is pretty worn...that may be the issue.
EM6-300L flywheel housing replacement
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
Before you remove the dowel pins, clean everything and install dry like Vmac3 says. Check the runout, if it's within spec you're good. If not, follow Vmac3's instructions. I had a bar made at a machine shop to bolt to the crank that held my drill good and square.