mattb73lt

The paint really came out great. I try to keep the cab covered when I’m not actually working on it, to keep the dust off. But, I can’t help looking at it. I try to be so careful working on it so I don’t mess it up. No rings or watches and try to pad everything, two hands on the tools so I don’t slip....

I saw that. Looks pretty used up, but could be a good candidate. It has an interesting transition between the cab and sleeper.

Congrats on getting it home. Looks like a great truck!!

I sent you one, too.

Details!! Lots of small things happening, brackets going back on, holes being refilled and progress!! Spent $130 on hardware, yesterday, nothing bigger than a handful of 5/16 bolts. Cowl vent doors are adjusted and finished. Chrome shop called, my lot should be back in about 8-10 weeks. So, finishing the doors will be a while. I have a tentative date around the beginning of April at an upholsterer to cut, sew and install the headliner and back wall. He did sew me up 22’ of matching windlace to go around the inside door jambs.

Nice barn find, literally!! Thankfully it was sheltered inside for all that time. That’ll clean up real nice.

I’ve been hunting for a good wiper setup to replace my dual air motors. They’re a pain, they leak, don’t park and drift across the windshield while driving. I’m pretty set on a pair of electric motors. They have variable sweep, two speed and positive park. The park can be set to inboard or outboard. Separately, there’s a module I’m buying that allows high-low, variable intermittent, positive park and will synchronize the sweep when operating. Trying to source it from West Marine in the next few weeks. They only real mod will be drilling the shaft hole out slightly to fit the larger shaft,

That’s got to be a great feeling, starting the assembly work. Really nice work and great workspace, too.

Last batch of red for the cab and a whole bunch of assembly to get done. My motivation is really picking up as this is looking so good and at times it seemed as if this would never come. Plus, I can't believe this page is now 19 pages long and over five years old!!

If you use them, get a copy of the catalog, first. There are images and measurements inside that are not on their website. The images are actual size so you can make easy work matching up what you need for clips and special items.

A batch of black for the cab, yesterday. Mostly floor parts. A small batch of red, today. That should finish ALL the cab painting. Parts are rolling in and still a bunch of hardware to source.

Here’s another outfit I’ve had really great luck with sourcing those hard to find small pieces. Very good prices, too.

I don’t believe that is a wet sleeve engine. That could be trouble or something easy, like a head gasket or an oil cooler leak. I’ve had engines that have done that and the block was fine. Still a big concern, until identified. As for gaskets, Olson’s Gaskets and Egge Machine Works, are two places to start looking. I’ve got a couple of carb’s and fuel pumps I’ve been trying to find a home for, if you need them.

That is some really good panel work!! Amazing truck from end to end!

Wow! That's really looking nice. Great work.

I was trying to keep them clean, after working on the other filthy harness. I wore rubber gloves so my hands wouldn't turn black, it was that grimy!

Yes, you can still get them. They are unbelievably expensive, now. I've seen them for around $2400!!! For that, I would buy the supplies and make my own or buy a modern one for a hot rod and make it work. I bought this one back in 2006, when I thought I was going to start the restoration. They were much less expensive, then.

Nice greasy pile of spaghetti!! I saved the old harness when I took the cab apart. Figured I’d use it as a template when the time came. Chased out all the wires from what I had tagged a while back and labeled everything I could identify. Also, to become familiar with the wiring system when the time came. Broke out the new harness, that I bought way back in 2006(!!!). From what I see, the only big difference is the spacing between the instrument cluster and the circuit breaker panel. Standard B’s it’s further to the right in the glove box. L’s have it in the center of the dash, so they’re a little shorter and I’ll have to route the new harness around to use up the excess. The only other issues are that there’ll be no series parallel switch and to modify it for an alternator. I added another pic with the new harness tagged out. The wires are numbered from the maker, but I like chasing the wires to prove out the numbering and I find it makes the installation easier, with less errors.

Some better interior shots. I’ve got a lot of hardware to get to put it back together.

Yes, both are used to make the paint sprayable. The reducer is temperature sensitive in three heat ranges.

Nice. It looks clean and complete, plus you know it's history. That'll look beautiful when it's done!!

Thanks!! A little at a time!! I waited a long time to start this one, collecting things as I found or needed them. When I get fustrated or find myself rushing, I walk away or do something else. It really pays off as this is coming out far beyond how I saw it being

A little interior mock-up to get the panels and dash out of the way and to keep them safe until further assembly can be done.

Thanks for that!! I’m still amazed at how good it looks, especially with what I had to do to bring it back. I thought it would look like Frankenstein, like it had been cut up!!

Oops, missed this. Look at my previous response, I updated it with a pic of the can with the code on it.