mattb73lt

You'd probably have to figure out what each wire does. The Wexco motors have three wires each, low, high and park. They match the ones on the controller, the others are for power, ground, wash and one for the switch.

BTW, if you're just looking for the controller on the wipers? I found it on Amazon for about $60 less than other suppliers.

It is old, probably 1920's, but still accurate.

That's great!! I hope it helps. Just trying to put out what I'm doing and finding. If it helps someone in their work, even better.

Another side project done. Converting to Budd hubs all the way around with polished Alcoa rims. I bought the hubs a few years ago, but they came off a burnt up B-73 without front brakes. At first I thought they wouldn't accept brake drums and having nothing to work with, as to what size the drum was, it was a lengthy search and a lot of questions. But, I dug through it and sourced longer front studs and all the other hardware I needed for the new wheels. After working out the dimensions I needed, I found Webb Wheel and they had a very user friendly site I could plug my measurements in and it would give you what drums would fit. Took my measurements several times to refine them and make sure I was ordering what was the closest fit. I also didn't want to waste time and money, the drums were not cheap!! I ordered them through Fleetpride, (the counter guy was very helpful!!)and picked them up today. They weren't quite drop in as I was hoping, but after boring both pilot holes out .060" they did. Assembled the hubs and drums and stacked up a spindle and no issues. A while back I almost gave up on this conversion, but I got it done. I used my 100 year old lathe to bore the holes. A simple operation, but i had to raise the headstock with a spacer that came with it and then true up the drum on a large faceplate. The set up was the most time consuming part, as I spent at least four hours getting everything together after getting the headstock apart and cleaned up. Quite the task spinning a 18 1/2", 80+ pound drum. It just barely fit the lathe, when all set up.

That’s a thought. I was toying with the idea of stacking the gaskets than I can still get, but that’s not really the best solution and may leak or blow out.

Anyone have a source for this ring seal for a NH220? It has a 4” ID and round, before it’s compressed into the flange. I’m not having any luck sourcing it through Cummins or my usual go to’s.

I mounted the controller and a 4 circuit fuse block to the underside of the steering column support.

Yeah, they’re very common. I see them in a lot of applications. It was kinda where the idea formed. Finding the controller was a big plus. I searched around for a while, looking at rotary type switches, but this one won out due to the synchronizing feature.

My new wiper system. I never really liked the L model wiper system. The standard B I thought was much better and was certainly more refined. You can throttle it back so it sweeps so slowly, you don't need a intermittent. Plus, the arms park and stay parked when not in use. None of that occurs in the L cab. With that in mind, when I cut apart my cab I removed all the air supply lines from the center windshield post. Now that I'm at the point of the rebuild where things are going back together, I needed to figure out what I was going to do. The search took a while, but this is what I came up with. For the parts: 2, 12V Wexco , 2 speed and positive park motors, with adjustable sweep angle and positive park, with 3 1/2" shafts. P/N 4R3.12.R110D 1, Marinco Dual Speed, Intermittent Wiper Motor Controller P/N 76080 1, HD three position Momentary On Switch (SPDT) 1, Momentary On Push Button Switch Several rolls of 14 & 16 AWG colored wire. Loose hardware and electrical connectors The heart of this is the Marinco Controller. It provides a three step Intermittent Mode (3,5,8 seconds), Hi-Lo speeds and positive park. Additionally, while the motors are running, the unit will synch the motors so that the arms will run together and not independently. It's made by a boat supply company and is a sealed unit, operates on 12 or 24 volts and is not polarity sensitive. It's a very robust unit and waterproof. The motors are standard units, widely available and come in various shaft lengths. I purchased ones with 3 1/2" shafts, same as the original motors. The sweeps are adjustable from 40-110 degrees and parks can be set left or right. So, you can set them both left, right, inboard or outboard. The only thing needed to mount them is to open the original shafts holes to 5/8" and add an anchor screw to the end bracket for torque. I bundled and chased seven wires through the center post to provide power, six for the motors and one for the cab fan. The controller comes with a three position plastic rocker switch. I'm deleting it and adding a three position toggle switch and a separate button switch for wash mode. These will reside where the air valve knobs were in the center of the dash. I'm not done with the installation yet, but getting close with all the wiring for the cab. It would be much easier to do this with the dash removed, luckily mine is. It seems like a pretty cool installation and shortly I'll know. I have some pictures of where I am with it, but ask if you have any questions.

Wow, those look pretty good compared to what you started with. Nothing wrong with a little patina, these were work trucks not show queens!!

The L cab uses two separate motors. I like the standard B wiper system a lot better. The one I put together should be a big improvement!!

I'd start by requesting the build records using the VIN, from the Mack Museum, if you haven't already. Then research the company that built the body. Make some connections with groups that collect/restore buses. Internet searches can be very helpful for photographs, technical info and other connections. In time, you'll built those contacts and sources to get the info and input to get the restoration done.

The breakers are Klixon CDM-20's. There were four originally, all 20 amps. I'm adding a fifth and the panel can take six. I'm using the far left hole for my Jake Brake switch. These are from the original manufacturer and identical, except the units are sealed ones and the reset button has the amperage printed in it instead of in a little recess. I sourced them from Waytek, Inc., www.waytekwire.com . They had them for about half of others at $16 ea. They're available from 5-40 amps. I'm assuming your H model dash is similar in arrangement, as my '63 standard B has automatic breakers and of a completely different arrangement. I'm also going to shorten this harness at the breaker end significantly. There's almost two feet of difference from the B dash to the center of the L dash. I thought I could coil it up a bit, but there's just too much wire to do so. A huge pain, but it'll make the installation a lot cleaner.

Bench work today. Starting to wire up the dash. I’m glad the whole thing comes out of the truck. A lot easier to get it all done, then install it as a unit. It would a lot harder to try and do it with it in. Still lots of sub-projects waiting to be finished as parts are still out for work and shipment. But, moving along and getting it done.

Good to know, thanks!!

Slowly filling up the firewall. Searching through old 35mm pics I took years ago to figure out what holes get used or not. Digital pics are so much better and clearer to figure things out and to manipulate. The Lizard Skin has helped seal the multitude of unused holes. I’ve just been poking it out where I need to, the rest aren’t very visible. Had to use my Dremel Tool to modify some grommets to allow the cowl vent drain lines to pass through. My dust barrier is pulling double duty by cutting the shop area in half, saving gas by not heating the whole thing. Lots of small tedious things being finished off, a little bit every day.

I was 13 at the time. My Dad was in charge of maintenance for the local school system. He always brought the school plow truck home during storms so he could get an early start to try to get the schools open on time in the mornings. The night of the storm, he gathered us kids and a few of our neighbor friends, piled us in the truck and went to the middle school. That was where the town pool was. We spent the evening swimming, diving and snorkeling in the pool while the snow went by the big windows sideways. Early the next morning when the snow stopped, he gathered us up and all the neighborhood kids he could find and wanted to make some money. Took us over to the schools and issued us a shovel. There were about 12 of us kids (all about 12-16 years old) and a bunch of regular custodial workers, a few plow trucks and a ford tractor with a bucket on it. We went from building to building, through the entire school system, and cleared all the exits, walkways and access points. Lunchtime, they opened one of the cafeterias and the workers cooked us lunch. We had a ball, they payed us minimum wage, which I think was around $2-$3 an hour, then. That was a lot of money for a 13 year old. In later years, my Dad was in charge of school bus maintenance. When it snowed at night, he was up early to start putting chains on the fleet of buses to try and get them on the road to minimize opening delays. He would take my brother and I with him to help out, at 3-4 AM!! We'd wear yard clothes and take our school clothes and books with us. We'd use wooden blocks on the inside duals, to drive the bus up on to throw the chains on the rear tires, lock them on and put the tensioners on. We'd also chop up short pieces bailing wire to hang on the inside mirror bracket for the driver, so he could wire down a broken link so it wouldn't beat the body up. When we were done, we'd get cleaned up, change and he would drop us off at school or we'd catch one of the buses, after we ate breakfast. I can't believe we did that back then, now that I think about it. But it was like a normal thing, we were helping out when something needed to get done. I also don't think you'd be able to get todays kids do that, even if they wanted to.

Typically, the frames were the same color as the cab, into the early 60’s. You could order a different color fame and cab, also. In the early 60’s they went to black fames and colored cabs. I have a ‘60 that’s red on red and a ‘63 that’s green on black. Not to say you couldn’t order a different combination to match your fleet or preferences, though. Someone may have more specific info here, but that’s what I’ve seen.

Restoration Specialties has the door seals, hood lacing and rubber seals for the cowl to fender transition. Chuck Roser has a lot of small stuff for B’s at decent prices, too. kingofsalvage.com

Well, yeah, considering how rough it was to start. Certainly things migrate from time to time into the house, especially when I don’t feel like heating up the barn. My wife is a saint with what she puts up with, at times. My skills have certainly improved over the years and I haven’t been this deep into a restoration in about thirty years. Everyone’s comments and insights are so appreciated as this progresses. I just keep thinking, it’s FINALLY getting done!!

It really is! After all the work the last two winters and painting it in October, so rewarding to be at this point. I’ve had a few friends stop over, that saw it sitting when I took it apart to store it, and can’t believe how it looks now.

But I know it’s there!

The paint really came out great. I try to keep the cab covered when I’m not actually working on it, to keep the dust off. But, I can’t help looking at it. I try to be so careful working on it so I don’t mess it up. No rings or watches and try to pad everything, two hands on the tools so I don’t slip....

I saw that. Looks pretty used up, but could be a good candidate. It has an interesting transition between the cab and sleeper.