mattb73lt

A thought would be to reach out to Matt Pfahl. He does a lot of vintage Macks and has a lot of resources to get things rebuilt to original. Classic Instruments is another resource that rebuilds old instruments and can also put modern innards into them for those that want the original look but modern operation, like 12 volts.

Yes, there are two patches of plywood, between the fixed floor and the removable panels that go up to the firewall. I used marine grade plywood and made some of the openings smaller. This was the piece before I cut it in two, like the original.

Moving right along!! Power steering is complete and works!! Mounted the steering cylinder and fabricated the last two lines I needed. No leaks and it's definitely a help over the manual box, but the Sheppard box in the other truck is a more powerful unit. But no complaints on this Garrison unit. Almost done modifying the floor pans, cutting a slot for the pedal arm to pass through and travel. Need to make some filler pieces to close up the old gaps, the rest and the steering column hole I'll cover with a 1/8" rubber sheet to seal the rest up. Pedal position is much more comfortable as my heel rests where the pedal base was and the ball of your foot easily presses the pedal. Also have to mount and rig the new accelerator pedal. That should be easy as it's a brand new kit From LOKAR. Pushing hard this week because next week will be busy with work through the weekend.

Not with the B73. I was hoping to come up Sunday with the B42, but it’s a very busy weekend with my employer having a huge Special Olympics fund raiser and the big Dreamride event on Saturday.

Not really. I only heard the center drop once when I bought the engine 20+ years ago. The backdrop sounds really throaty when you rev it up, with a good bark. The video I have of it revving up sounds really good with my headphones because of the bass. Hopefully, I'll be running it around soon so I'll have better sound with a load on it.

This is really going to look good when the fenders and hood go on!! Just went through the whole front end, double checking torques, cotter pins, front end toe-in and greasing everything. Finishing the power steering tomorrow and concentrating on the electrical on Friday. Still need to paint the hood, but the weather is getting better for that. Really making some good progress lately.

That's a nice view to see in the morning!! Thanks for all the comments, still stoked about moving it!

24 years in the making!!!! Moved the truck for the first time EVER under it's own power. Granted, it was only to turn it 180 degrees in the driveway, but it moved!!! I can't believe it.

That's a tough decision to make. I hate cutting stuff. But, cut carefully and save what you remove. You could graft it back in or the next owner might have that option.

This off duty commute is killing me, too many distractions. Weekends have been busy lately with work, but the last two days have given some awesome weather were I'm not melting trying to work outside. Spent yesterday and today engineering a new brake pedal mount to move the pedal and give me a more comfortable position. Never liked the original mount position and it really cramped your right leg, unless you had really short legs. Used a 2003 Vision hanging pedal mount, cut the pad off and re-welded it 180 degrees off. A single circuit valve bolts right to it and is relatively close the the original position. This is the last component of the air system the needed mounting. The connections should be real easy to finish and then I'll have some brakes!! I need about a day to finish that and another for electrical work that needs finishing. Getting real close to moving this thing for the first time!!

That’s awesome!! Having a helper that size is great, too!!

I'm hoping so. It would be nice to have this done and road proven by then to go. I've missed it every year so far.

Yeah, that's the aircraft mechanic in me. Plus, I have a large box of those rubber clamps from my previous jobs. Nice and neat, everything secure, but with enough slack for relative motion. It makes going back in to fix things, if you have to, easier. I have a few hours running the engine and it seems very dry with no leaks, yet. Road time will be the big test.

Creeping along on the electrical system. Almost done modifying the harness for the 100 Amp, one wire alternator and removing/securing unnecessary wires. The alternator greatly simplifies things and charges like crazy at an idle. Smoke testing continued yesterday with powering up the dash, all instruments work but the fuel gage. That'll be todays chore, with installing new senders and connecting the two harnesses together to power up the rear harness. So far, no popped breakers, dead shorts or odors of things burning. Plus, trying to remember what I did when I wired the dash a year ago. Most everything is hooked and secured in the engine compartment with all temporary wiring removed. A little step forward yesterday by starting the truck while sitting in the driver's seat for the first time, ever. Should be a couple of days to finish the electrics and then a few more to finish the air system.

Those C Models were handy for maintenance, the way the fenders swung out of the way. It beats laying on top of them to work. Those are pretty rare. First time I saw one was was up in Massachusetts when I was buying the truck that donated the bed for my first B Model in chelate 90's. There must've been almost a dozen laying in the yard in various states of decay. There was a gentleman in West Hartford, CT that ran one with a dump body into the early 2000's, then I saw it for sale. Never saw it again. Yours is beautiful!!

Cleaned all the crap off the radiator after it’s rebuild and now the shutters are operational through the air system. More and more things getting hooked up and secured. Starting the electrical hook up in the engine compartment tomorrow. All the radiator and heater plumbing is complete (and NO leaks detected anywhere!!) More progress!

You’re welcome and thank you for being part of the process. It's been good chatting with you and all the others that have chimed in with tips or what they’re working on. It’s been an enjoyable journey so far!!

I’ve been to Atlantic several times. The counter guy let’s me go in the back and rummage through their bins of brass fittings to find what I need for the brake system. They’ve been really good to deal with. My last visit I had a conversation with that gentleman ( I can’t remember his name either?) and he showed me his office and his scratch built models, very impressive the skill he has. He asked what I was building and I had my iPad with me, so I showed him my progress on building the B73. He said it was one of his favorites and he actually had a model of one by his widow. But it got me thinking that this was more of a build than a restoration. I mean sure, I’m trying to be accurate with how it was, but with the stretch for the body and things I wanted (like the Budd hubs and rims) I really am building a truck. It’s been much different than other restorations I’ve done where I’ve taken something apart and put it back together. Even my other B model was easier with the driveline swap and adding that body, much more straight forward than this one. And I will admit this page has been very motivating to moving it along and chatting with everyone here, that has been great and very helpful.

Remounted and filled with antifreeze with no leaks!!! Block and heater core filled with Fleetcharge . No leaks detected on the radiator or block, after running it long enough to get it up to operating temperature. Hopefully done with that aggravating detour, but I did get a lot of the air system hooked up and flex lines fabricated during that time. Still moving forward!!

No not offhand. I have a friend who details cars and aircraft for a living and he has some stuff for aluminum he swears by. He’s promised to get me some of what he uses, but I haven’t received anything yet.

That's really neat. You have a lot of skill and you have a great amount of detail you've put into it. Amazing!!

I think thats going to look great when you get it all fixed up. Looks like a good fit for that wheelbase.

I bought this core about 15 years ago, when I made my initial attempt at doing a restoration, and I want to say this one was about $800. I remember it wasn’t cheap. It was carefully stored the whole time and was without damage. I’m a little pissed it had these issues, but it is what it is and now appears to not leak. I was just thinking that in a few days I’ll drain it and refill it with antifreeze to check it one more time.

OK, fingers crossed this time!! Radiator shop found three more cracked tubes, all next to the one I found. I put it all back together and filled it with water and.......it leaked again, but from another area. This nearly led to a serious Tourette's breakdown or possibly a 72 hour committal for observation! Cooler heads prevailed and work interfered with further frustration by causing me to walk away and perform other duties. Today, I was able to take a calmer look at things and by removing the driver's side plate, located a very small pinhole in a tube far away from the other ones. This one I fixed myself with a torch and some solder. Right now it's full of water and dry everywhere. I'm going to let is sit for a few days, full, as fixing this on the truck would be nearly impossible without some serious disassembly of the front end. The break also gave me time to do a parts hunting/spending spree and I was able to locate a lot of hydraulic and pneumatic items to finish up the chassis. I also bought a large supply of Fleetcharge antifreeze to fill the radiator and engine. That was about $370, so no leaks would be great!!

I swapped my carrier from a CRS-84 to a CRD-117(From a R Model) with a 4.62 ratio. Very easy swap into the rear end housing, then a little driveshaft work to make that fit. The 4.62 was perfect for me, 80 mph top end and at 65 I’m turning about 17-1800 rpms. I have a double overdrive Triplex in it and that gives me good flexibility from local roads to highway. You just need to figure out your ratios, tire diameters to get your cruising rpm right for the speed your looking for. The R model carriers are plentiful and have a wide selection of ratios. Plus, they’re newer and parts are more readily available.