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Joey what do you use to target the piston coolers?

On 12/31/2023 at 12:48 PM, Joey Mack said:

Alright Mechaholic......    This ones for you..  Here are some of my home made tools.  I have used them many times..   See some of us arent fancy pants..    By the way,  ALL of my 7 torque wrenches are ''click type''  not digital, with a beeper..   

Any guess's as to which tool is the best one??     She's polishing the crank journals for me. 

I like the liner mock up tool ! I made one exactly the Same years ago when E7 came out great minds think alike buddy Never had a liner installer always used a bfh  and block of wood for that!

33 minutes ago, Macktruckman said:

Good luck!  
Josh

👍

13 hours ago, Macktruckman said:

Now i just can’t remember for sure and i might be mistaken here but im thinking you might get access by taking a front part of the floor pan out and possibly not have to pull the seat? 
Josh

Well the Friday parts guys are refunding my cash as they could not confirm what cylinders are on here and are to expensive to send back pretty descent of them ! I did a little more research and was able to figure what cylinders are on there and ordered thru Amazon ! So if anyone needs some  Cylinders Brake Master Cylinder D141779 D136837 for Case Backhoe Loaders 580M 580K 580L 590  !

I got em!😁

Thanks Josh ! Ya  I can get the floor out real easy its a pc of stainless just chucked on the floor I'm suspecting some one already has been fighting with this issue before I bought the machine hence the stainless on the floor hopefully we can get to the bleeders from here looks tight and my fat old carcass ain't getting at them!  I have an eager young apprentice that is going to dive in there and give it a go when they get here next week I HOPE! 

Wish me luck that these ones are right ! 🙏  

And Joey thanx for the heads up ! I'm tryin to Deal with places I can get to with out to much political interference due to import fees and BS Im avoiding using sites I'm not familiar  With!  

2 hours ago, Macktruckman said:

Am I thinking right is there bleeders on the slave cylinders on the top of the rear end transaxle?

Me thinks you’re correct !

makes sense! Very lodgical thought! We will see!

1 hour ago, Macktruckman said:

Ohhh i see. Its been 20 years since i worked on a K. I wish I could be more help. 
Josh

 

All Good my friends ! Thanx for chiming in ! if you guys think of anything more don't be strangers .The machine is down at this point till I get this sorted! The main issue to me is the lines coming in are on the top with a bend! upside down U shape so getting the air out may be a chore and apparently the bleeders are under the seat ! hoping I don't got to pull the seat! 🙄 😡

3 minutes ago, Macktruckman said:

I want to say I remember bleeding that k at the line out of the master cylinder but i just cant be sure. 
Josh

Well I ordered from Friday parts and got the wrong cylinders so I’m awaiting their return options! There are several options for this machine and it’s by serial number! I ordered 20000 vin or less and what came was wrong ,my vin is 16000 but I still need 20000 plus the difference is the bore size 7/8?vs 1 inch I need the one inch😡

20 hours ago, 67RModel said:

There are all kinds of cheap shop and service manuals for K series Case 580 backhoes on Ebay. I saw a full set with a parts book for $108. I would snag a full shop manual for it and see what it has to say.

Well going to take a crack at it today and see how it goes!  If it goes sideways well I will order up a service manual ! Its not really rocket science just the steel lines enter from the top with a over 90 degree bend kind of an air trap to my way of thinking! If it were difficult there would be alot more posts on the issue! Hoping for some good luck! 🙏😄  

I know there are a few guys here that  and have run and worked on these !  So I thought id put it out here ! A while back I purchased this unit! the brakes had been pined together so I hadn't noticed that the right hand brake is not operating goes right to the floor and the reisvour is full ! No leaks any where so I'm assuming the Master cyl is toast on that side! I got two new master cylinders and am about to replace them ! Has Anyone here had a go at doing these ? Bleeding them looks not to be the easiest affair so was hoping there was someone here with some tips! I'm finding this machine is a changeover year for a lot of the parts the hydraulics and brakes have different kits for  serial number 20000 and lower !  you can't just order for 580k and get the right stuff! That said I managed to get the cyls for this and thought if anyone here has dealt with this issue they might post there experience ! The Broken Tractor dudes seem to have a good handle on the part situation their selection is good but as far as info not so much on a lot of stuff! I don't have a service manual And there is very little on line u tube stuff! And what there is is in Spanish! Not helpful! 

Thanx in advance!

I know there are a few guys here that  and have run and worked on these !  So I thought id put it out here ! A while back I purchased this unit! the brakes had been pined together so I hadn't noticed that the right hand brake is not operating goes right to the floor and the reisvour is full ! No leaks any where so I'm assuming the Master cyl is toast on that side! I got two new master cylinders and am about to replace them ! Has Anyone here had a go at doing these ? Bleeding them looks not to be the easiest affair so was hoping there was someone here with some tips! I'm finding this machine is a changeover year for a lot of the parts the hydraulics and brakes have different kits for  serial number 20000 and lower !  you can't just order for 580k and get the right stuff! That said I managed to get the cyls for this and thought if anyone here has dealt with this issue they might post there experience ! The Broken Tractor dudes seem to have a good handle on the part situation their selection is good but as far as info not so much on a lot of stuff! I don't have a service manual And there is very little on line u tube stuff! And what there is is in Spanish! Not helpful! 

Thanx in advance!

18 minutes ago, Weston e7 said:

It’s a Spicer 10 speed

I suggest you follow up on the first stuff posted by Joe there! Cheep and easy stuff first !  Also if you can poke around above the trans there and see if the are any wires that could be rubbed together  the torque limit switch is a 2 wire switch that may or may not be used on the Spicer trans! even if the switch is not there the wires likely are and  could be rubbed together ! Is the speedo working? ensure that there are no other switches at play!( Fifth wheel slide)( Air Ride Dumped) those type of switches! I don't recall if these were equipped with these safe guards or not BUT keep them out of the picture by having them turned off!  Note the torque limit will cut the power by 50%!

So what trans is behind this engine is it a Mack trans? Or fuller! There is a torque limit switch that could be at play here on a Mack  trans also ! If there is no check engine light on ! there is something holding back on the power the computer does not see! as joey mentioned grounds and battery / starter connections(top of list) places to start!  ! Note the check engine light will likely be on now due to a miss match code between VECU and The EECU at this point!

Possible Fuel starvation? How’s the fuel pressure! Check you fir tank vent for starters! Check and clean the tack pu on the flywheel housing ! Clean the grounds below the starter all good first looks!

16 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

   JoeH's CAC tester is decent and easy to make..  just be sure to tighten the clamps really tight. The caps will shoot out if not tight..  

Like A bullet!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Well Straydog,  I appreciate the fact that you want to get it re-built..  Please make sure the shop knows how to do Mack engines.  especially setting the liners to the correct height.  and ask if they have a counter bore cutter in the case the shelves are pitted out to the edge.  

What he said!😃liner height over 24 -28 is best!

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

I wish you the Best !!  Jojo

 

keep us posted..

Yup agree keep us posted!

23 minutes ago, JoeH said:

What cab is this truck, RD690? You could have a fatigue crack on the charge air cooler, my 95 e7-350 had one running most of the way down the passenger side. My truck made 25 psi ever since we bought it in 2009, ran hot on the pyro too. Last year it started dipping closer to 22 psi max. Found the cracked CAC, put a new one on and now I get 34 psi on a good pull, and cooler pyro temps. Rarely over 900 degrees now.

That’s exceptional boost for a 350 your fortunate!

47 minutes ago, Straydog954 said:

All good tips, thanks. Also does worn rings contribute to lower boost pressure? I can only get like 23 tops and that’s going up a grade with a 20 load workin its ass off. I’ve read about other things posted on this site that causes low boost and I will check those. Seems like people with e7s on here talk about getting 28-30 or more but maybe that’s with larger turbo and injectors etc. 

It can contribute! A strong/ fresh    350   25 - 28 psi  /  460  33 - 38 ! If your trailing Smoke under a pull you may have a boost leak, another symptom is if you have a pyrometer it will raise quick! Can't emphasize enough !  You have to take in to account the age and what's worth spending for what your doing! oil is cheap in some ways! 

just stuff to consider! 

On 1/19/2024 at 4:32 PM, Joey Mack said:

just look at cross hatching..  if there is some left, just hone them and GO!..  the new rings will make up the difference.  it will run fine..  you may have to trim the carbon ridge at the top of the liner, but that is common for liner re-use.. before you pull the heads, come back for more advice..  

exactly the route I would take if I was in your shoes!pop the heads off in a lump don’t take everything apart leave manifolds on! Pull the pan pop out the pistons ball hone the liners be careful not to hit piston coolers new rod and mains re ring and reassemble!likely cost a lot less than ten k and worth the effort in your case and if it goes sideways in a few years you aren’t out much!

18 hours ago, Straydog954 said:

Yah I’ve never had anybody touch anything on the engine or had anything done to the injectors and I’ve put 20k miles on it. I use Shell Rotella oil. It’s always used the same amount of oil since I’ve run it. Maybe a valve adjustment, injectors would be good. 

In my mind its all in what  you intend to do with it! If you intend on keeping it and its a daily work horse then you could spend the bucks! How ever how far does one go with it! ? You can get into this for 30000 K and what is the unit worth? If your mechanically minded You could pull the heads pop out the the pistons re ring it! Economically and pop it back together! that would likely deal with the oil consumption blow by  issue ! how ever you still got to consider how long will the liners last till they leak etc. I could go on and on! Its a catch 22!  How much will insurance pay you if the truck gets wrote off?  if it costs 10 bucks in oil day after day of running add it up! And as Joe mention Skilled labor these days NOT The greatest! 

22 hours ago, JoeH said:

Is this a short term get you back to the shop or can the truck be left like this and run indefinitely? I don't have one of these engines, I'm just curious.

The This is a keep it working fix ! Don’t forget these engines ran good for years with fixed timing econovance was added for emissions reasons! The 350 was offered with either or in the transition year! 
 

Teck Tip ! DON'T Idle ! Too much idle Not enough work makes Mack a dull boy! 🤣

I have seen these go way over 30 thousand hours! If it ain't broke don't fix it! Comparatively speaking oil is cheap!

3 minutes ago, BigRigRepair said:

Thank you!! I’ll let you know how it goes! 

Please do!  I am not a fan of doing this but it has worked as a get by  in the past !  As parts have been hard to get for a long time! 

To disarm you want to cap off the oil line! To the econovance!

remove the timing event sensor turn the engine till the spade shows up in the hole where the timing event marker gets its message! Remove the 5 bolt cover at the front of the fuel pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump gear remove the gear! Go to the flywheel housing at bottom remove the six bolt cover observe where the timing is set should be 6 or 10 initial timing! Advance. The engine to timing up to 15-20 put the gear back in ensure the spade stays central in the timing event hole as you tighten the gear bolts the (holes are slotted)and reassemble you can run the engine with the cover off to test run not much oil in that area !  See if that works ok you can tweak the timing higher if you wish ! Just remember that you started with six or ten initially!  
good luck with it bro!

Note that the econovance  when working advances to a max of 22 - 24 degrees ! So you should pick a happy medium! Econovance was added to meet emissions.