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16 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

   JoeH's CAC tester is decent and easy to make..  just be sure to tighten the clamps really tight. The caps will shoot out if not tight..  

Like A bullet!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Well Straydog,  I appreciate the fact that you want to get it re-built..  Please make sure the shop knows how to do Mack engines.  especially setting the liners to the correct height.  and ask if they have a counter bore cutter in the case the shelves are pitted out to the edge.  

What he said!😃liner height over 24 -28 is best!

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

I wish you the Best !!  Jojo

 

keep us posted..

Yup agree keep us posted!

23 minutes ago, JoeH said:

What cab is this truck, RD690? You could have a fatigue crack on the charge air cooler, my 95 e7-350 had one running most of the way down the passenger side. My truck made 25 psi ever since we bought it in 2009, ran hot on the pyro too. Last year it started dipping closer to 22 psi max. Found the cracked CAC, put a new one on and now I get 34 psi on a good pull, and cooler pyro temps. Rarely over 900 degrees now.

That’s exceptional boost for a 350 your fortunate!

47 minutes ago, Straydog954 said:

All good tips, thanks. Also does worn rings contribute to lower boost pressure? I can only get like 23 tops and that’s going up a grade with a 20 load workin its ass off. I’ve read about other things posted on this site that causes low boost and I will check those. Seems like people with e7s on here talk about getting 28-30 or more but maybe that’s with larger turbo and injectors etc. 

It can contribute! A strong/ fresh    350   25 - 28 psi  /  460  33 - 38 ! If your trailing Smoke under a pull you may have a boost leak, another symptom is if you have a pyrometer it will raise quick! Can't emphasize enough !  You have to take in to account the age and what's worth spending for what your doing! oil is cheap in some ways! 

just stuff to consider! 

On 1/19/2024 at 4:32 PM, Joey Mack said:

just look at cross hatching..  if there is some left, just hone them and GO!..  the new rings will make up the difference.  it will run fine..  you may have to trim the carbon ridge at the top of the liner, but that is common for liner re-use.. before you pull the heads, come back for more advice..  

exactly the route I would take if I was in your shoes!pop the heads off in a lump don’t take everything apart leave manifolds on! Pull the pan pop out the pistons ball hone the liners be careful not to hit piston coolers new rod and mains re ring and reassemble!likely cost a lot less than ten k and worth the effort in your case and if it goes sideways in a few years you aren’t out much!

18 hours ago, Straydog954 said:

Yah I’ve never had anybody touch anything on the engine or had anything done to the injectors and I’ve put 20k miles on it. I use Shell Rotella oil. It’s always used the same amount of oil since I’ve run it. Maybe a valve adjustment, injectors would be good. 

In my mind its all in what  you intend to do with it! If you intend on keeping it and its a daily work horse then you could spend the bucks! How ever how far does one go with it! ? You can get into this for 30000 K and what is the unit worth? If your mechanically minded You could pull the heads pop out the the pistons re ring it! Economically and pop it back together! that would likely deal with the oil consumption blow by  issue ! how ever you still got to consider how long will the liners last till they leak etc. I could go on and on! Its a catch 22!  How much will insurance pay you if the truck gets wrote off?  if it costs 10 bucks in oil day after day of running add it up! And as Joe mention Skilled labor these days NOT The greatest! 

22 hours ago, JoeH said:

Is this a short term get you back to the shop or can the truck be left like this and run indefinitely? I don't have one of these engines, I'm just curious.

The This is a keep it working fix ! Don’t forget these engines ran good for years with fixed timing econovance was added for emissions reasons! The 350 was offered with either or in the transition year! 
 

Teck Tip ! DON'T Idle ! Too much idle Not enough work makes Mack a dull boy! 🤣

I have seen these go way over 30 thousand hours! If it ain't broke don't fix it! Comparatively speaking oil is cheap!

3 minutes ago, BigRigRepair said:

Thank you!! I’ll let you know how it goes! 

Please do!  I am not a fan of doing this but it has worked as a get by  in the past !  As parts have been hard to get for a long time! 

To disarm you want to cap off the oil line! To the econovance!

remove the timing event sensor turn the engine till the spade shows up in the hole where the timing event marker gets its message! Remove the 5 bolt cover at the front of the fuel pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump gear remove the gear! Go to the flywheel housing at bottom remove the six bolt cover observe where the timing is set should be 6 or 10 initial timing! Advance. The engine to timing up to 15-20 put the gear back in ensure the spade stays central in the timing event hole as you tighten the gear bolts the (holes are slotted)and reassemble you can run the engine with the cover off to test run not much oil in that area !  See if that works ok you can tweak the timing higher if you wish ! Just remember that you started with six or ten initially!  
good luck with it bro!

Note that the econovance  when working advances to a max of 22 - 24 degrees ! So you should pick a happy medium! Econovance was added to meet emissions.
 

Do you have a replacement? Try a solenoid first wouldn’t go pulling the econovance parts are near impossible to get! I believe I would disarm the econovance and set the timing to 20 or so and call it a day! Just my thoughts on it!is this a customers truck? If so the afore mentioned fix may not be viable! With out permission! 

1 hour ago, BigRigRepair said:

1996 Mack e7-350 between 1400 and 1800 rpm’s is smokes and misses really bad. I’m thinking something might be wrong with the econovance. Truck came in with fuel in the oil. Got that fixed and replaced several fuel lines. Any help would be appreciated. I’m not very familiar with Mack engines. 

Do you have a check engine light on? You can try put 12v to the econovance ! this will prove out whether it is mechanical or wiring/ software issue! if the stumble goes away you have a wiring issue! If it does not you have a physical issue with the econovance! broken spring or sealing issue! ect  !  Also check the line from the block to the econovance if the line has pluged it won't work either!  on older models There are also screens that can plug up in the econovance block remove the plugs and check these if you take the block off be sure to try and save the gasket or  get the right gasket for the year there are two different gaskets!

20 hours ago, 2015Mack said:

I have a 2015 Mack with an Mdrive transmission.  When adding a PTO and using the PTO switch in the dash, are there things that need to be enabled in the program?  We installed the mechanical part but the switch won't engage the pto.  

Yup ! Think its a dealer issue here there are lots of parameters to be set even just enabling it (may not) get the result you expect!

On 1/10/2024 at 6:15 AM, mechohaulic said:

a slide clutch in backwards.  it's time to walk away /take a break and have cup of coffee or ==. been there dun that . the frustration of what's wrong will cause "confusion" on the thought process ; walk away and come back SOMETIMES helps . in going through the gears are we talking of top covers off and manually moving sliders or shifting with covers on?

Good point and easy to do!

On 1/10/2024 at 11:11 AM, Wasteman1 said:

we took it to Mack they replaced the EGR cooler and EGR diff sensor and Venturi tube with new. they said it needed injectors. we replaced the injector and still the same problem. we have now replaced the ACM but Mack programmed the new one with the old ones program. it still id not dosing unless your in test mode, then it doses fine. 4094 will not go away, it is still not dosing. we are trying to get a used ACM from a good working truck. 

Did they sweep check the turbo? if the turbo is sticking it is a viscous circle as far as soot production ! not enough air more soot! round and round! 

12 hours ago, JoeH said:

Considering the same year block can put out 25psi boost on the 283hp version I can't think of anything that'll get hurt at 20psi.  That head you had rebuilt would make me nervous, it took a beating.  Wouldn't be surprised if a valve seat worked itself loose... 

The fuel pump is what limits the truck on power. The turbo will only put out enough air to match the fuel pump needs. I think. Basically the fuel exhaust drives turbo, so when you run out of fuel potential you run out of turbo potential.

The older two valve V8 would make a popping sound when a valve seat came loose and could really be heard when shutting down the engine pop pop pop as it was being shut down! the seat was big enough it would not fall out un like the 4 valve V8 ! That said the six rarely had seat issues 2 or 4 valve! Just sayin!

1 hour ago, Goddy454 said:

I ran a crystal sublimation and this seems to have corrected the issue with the rising number during a regen, it also set the soot back down to zero when it finished, but the truck is now calling for a regen everyday, i will have to a snap test and check into things further. Thanks

Think you should check the egr  differential pressure sensor and venturie tube ports foe clogging ! just sayin!

You get this working again bro!

13 hours ago, Highroadhauling said:

T2180B, water in trans, blown out oil cooler, can I bypass the oil cooler. Also guessing synchro is bad, grinding from high to low, is this a just replace the synchro and see or pull whole transmission and look inside type of job. Any help is appreciated, TIA.

Yup to both ! By pass the cooler and change the oil and try it but it has likly roasted the syncro! BUT you may get lucky!  The job can be done in the truck however you have to have special tools to do it! And it aint cheap! PAI parts for this are quite reasonable compared to Mack pricing!

2 minutes ago, Johnny93 said:

What signs will I get when pulling pan and valve covers and pressurizing the coolant system if it is the oil cooler? What should I look for?

you will see  where the coolant is oozing from with the pan off! Also there are plugs in the head between the rockers that can leak check there first but usually its a liner or oil cooler if this showed up quickly  both will show up with the pan off!

5 minutes ago, Johnny93 said:

I have a 2000 model CH613 with a E7 460 that is using 2-3 gallons of coolant a day. It doesn’t leak a drop and isn’t making oil. Looks like it is blowing straight steam out of the blow-by tube. Oil isn’t milky but if you pull the oil fill plug it has a greenish sludge and the valve cover has a green film. I’m thinking leaky liner but are there any other possibilities? Bad air compressor (tanks are dry) bad oil cooler? Bad head gasket (does not pressurize the coolant system or run hot) anything else to check?

Oil cooler possible! pull the oil pan and pressurize the system it will tell you where your At!