fjh

On 12/5/2023 at 7:43 AM, kscarbel2 said:

I feel it's a great looking truck. I'm very proud of Ford's global heavy truck business. I know that Bill Ford is. He took a chance with financing the F-Max, i.e. investing in taking Ford International to the next level, and it has paid off !

It has a  uncanny resemblance to the cab over of the 80s ! We used to called them the Pac-man due to the 4 corner air bag system on the cab! they road like floating on a cloud! While beneath the chassis can be getting pounded to hell!  

On 12/5/2023 at 9:30 AM, Hook n ladder 1 said:

No, I already have that stuff.  The problem I'm having is certain "wear items" are not being covered.  A front wheel bearing failed at 50,000 miles and they won't cover it, but I'm still working on it. It shows under the Chassis 2 warranty that wheel bearings are covered.  The mechanics stated it was improperly installed and failed prematurely. 

Was this a Mack unitized hub OR jobber axle? just askin!

Yup agreed! Also if you don’t got a 10 thou handy you can set the yoke by putting your thumb on the yoke turn the screw till it touches then one flat of the nut and lock it down! Done this for years on v8 e6 e7 and eteck the best part is you don’t need a dam computer to do it and the procedure never changes!😂

Just now, fjh said:

more a set issue as Joe mentioned!

That said if the seats were improperly installed there could come an issue with un even ness after being run!

46 minutes ago, fjh said:

Did it break on the same cyl twice?

more a set issue as Joe mentioned!

Did it break on the same cyl twice? It could be a valve issue! Did the heads not have a warranty?

I have a fair knowledge of the v8 what are your questions I will try to answer!

The rear mounts you  have  are correct ! The front are likley correct! The later model RW had a single Rear mount! Derived from the MH cab over chassis! The RW was derived from the W cab over  Chassis Also known as a cruse liner ! R Cab on a Cruseliner frame! The MH  frame became a basis  for the RW and the CL !

So there is alot of posts on this subject on the site do a search! check the cheap and easy stuff it can be many things as simple as the fuel tank vent plugged to bad fuel lines! Start tring stuff and eliminating things!

Should work fine! Never seen this happen thats a crappy situation! seen a few broken springs but never a crack like that!

35 minutes ago, JoeH said:

I've been watching them for a couple months now.  In a world of insanity, they do bring common sense to the table.

Where they may fail is getting product to market fast enough.  Their plan is to make like 5 of these, put them out in the field to work out the bugs, which there probably won't be any, before ramping up production. By the time they get their production going their competition will already be making comparable setups.  Me being me, I'd still buy one of theirs first.  $90 generic headlight at the local parts store sure outweighs the $1,700 special one on back order. A lot of thought went into this rig.  Air ride battery tray. Differentials mounted so the motors are protected in both forward and reverse. Easy/comfortable access to the dash and electronics.  Fault code system that displays what the fault is instead of some B's code you need a $$$$$$ computer program to read.

Agree ! They took advice and knowledge from the masses and personal experience! and put it into practice!👍 That said you need repeat business to stay in business There are no captive parts on that unit! That is  what the big guys count on there is a method in their madness And it works once you got one your trapped ! whether it be a Pete A KW or Volvo trash its the way its designed!

5 hours ago, Salpolit said:

@fjh had the solution! Checked timing using a boroscope in the test port on the injection pump, found it to be 3 degrees. Engine called for 9.5 degrees, set it to that and the truck runs like new!

I appreciate all the help and diagnosis from everyone, just happy to finally have the old dog running good again

👍 happy to help!

18 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Couldn't tell you what specific PSI, but if you are testing all 6 injectors and they are close to the same popping pressure then you should be good. Spray pattern is whats most important when testing injectors. 

 

I'm with Bob Watch the spray they need to be cracking at similar pressures around 3000 psi With no dribble! 

4 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

They really are good to watch, very interesting stuff

Their logging idea makes sense, recharge down hill with logs pushing the load, them drive back up on the already charged battery 

Only problem for Australia is we dont have huge mountain ranges like the US or Canada 

And I dunno about the steering wheel in the middle and if that will pass ADR

But good on them for having a go 

 

Paul

Yup I agree! Good on them! Right down to earth well grounded dudes with a focus!  I question the usefulness over the road also!  the Cab makes huge sense as vocational units As they were saying the visibility alone is a true bonus! The Idea of haveing everything generic is a true savings in the logging game! thing is , everything as it is these days is to create more business built in obsolescence is In order for them to have that they must have something to sell after the sale of a unit! there growth will be limited ! they have no captivation not even the Cab ! I believe the repower idea is a sound idea! repower kits makes sense! still a huge undertaking for most thou! 

Thought I would post this ! These guys put a shitload of common sense to use here ! Hopefully they go some where with it ! They definitely wouldn't Be hired by any of the corporate type companies they are too logical! There veiws reflect my thoughts for the most part as far as saving the environment they hit the nail on the head! Not sure how this will work out for over the road use as their main focus is logging how ever.......! 

8 hours ago, allfritz123 said:

I will get a picture of the valve cover Terry.  I am thinking I can adapt the tip turbine to the 4 valve.  I am curious why you would think it is labor intensive fjh?   I am going to try fit the tip turbine onto the donor engine. I can understand that it would be hard to adapt if the jake module was on top of the head _ I run out of room!  The donor engine I have has no jake.  Everything looks very similar space wise. I think I  measured 10 inches to the top of the valve cover on the 4valve? while the 2vh is 9ish inches. The difference being the head is thicker (6 1/2 inches?) but the cover is tapered and shorter and has bolts all the way around instead of 2 mid cover bolts (much better system!).  The taper should allow me to fit I believe.   I am going to make sure I can fit the box onto the other engine before going further.  The head itself on that 1985 engine is thicker and has the injectors side mounted while my old one has it vertical mounted on the head LHS.  The newer engine has bolts all the way around the cover and looks similar to my E7s from 1998 or 1999.

Exhaust manifold looks similar positioned. It looks like the air cooler top bolts will adapt right onto where the air cleaner was mounted for the other truck.  They have 3 holes tapped on the cylinder head bolts LHS and in the correct position already to mount it!   As long as I am not missing anything, I think I should be okay. 

The other thing which I see is that the front engine mount on my old engine sits in a saddle apparatus secured with 2 capscrews while the donor engine was flat vertical mounted with a frame.  I think that will unbolt and then the saddle will work on the new engine which has the rounded nose on it.

Thanks guys for all the tips.  I guess in order to get the old engine out I will have to put the transmission on a jack. and pull it back out of the way so I gain clearance on the bell housing to come out vertical?  Or would it be easier to open the front plate out and move forward?  Any ideas on what is the easier method.  That transmission is huge and I sure would not like to have to slide it back with airlines and all and sitting under the cab!  This is a first for me and the engine needs to come out to get the crankshaft out of it for repair.

 

 

With out an engine brake you will have no issue mounting the Tip turbine ! Just make sure the stud nuts or bolts to mount it are in the correct locations when installing the head bolt/ studs! The three that mount the bracket to hold the cooler box have to be located properly is all! 

23 hours ago, other dog said:

That's something I always dreamed of doing when I was young. Driving the entire Trans Canada Highway and on up the Alaska Highway to Alaska. In the summer of course. Now that I'm in "the 4th. quarter" it doesn't interest me as much, but it would be a great trip to make. 

That is a beautiful  trip bro your missing out! We Have done the Alaska Yukon trip twice ! 

Bro  Sorry I'm not a guru on this subject! I apologize for the use of memory word! The engineering dudes figured it out for us ! Some how the extra turns going in didn't match up the turns going out to the diffs and compromised the ECU in one of the chips whether it be memory or OTHER not sure sorry I used that as an example! Again ! The point being the computer over worked it self in that area  trying to figure out what to do and couldn't  ! The same area got damaged 3 times it showed burn marks each time !  It was and MP10! They ended up reworking the ECU some how OR  ( MAYBE reprograming it to ignore the calculation) not sure  Don't really mater amazingly enough they worked with us to repair the issue that's the main thing and the customer got satisfied!  At that time there were some decent guys in that department don't know about these days!?Guess if you think about it if you stick extra gear reduction in behind everything It may have Miled  out the brain of the ECU Duno! So Can't really tell you the solution!

1 hour ago, allfritz123 said:

Sorry I was not quite understood. It is the rod bearing journal (crank pin) not the block journal which had the spun shells.  I am going to pull the valve cover off my 1985 donor engine to see what the valve train looks like and verify it is a 4VH.  I am some where's around 2.980  inches on that crank pin.  Nominal OD is 2.998 inches.

I wished I could fit my 1985 engine into this truck.   A lot better design in intercooler!  I just need a little space in the front. I don't think the hood was redesigned between years other than markers different?  If cab and chassis are the same and the hood is same - why can't I get this other engine to fit? It looks tight.  My current engine has louvres on the front of the rad which I would discard.  The front intercooler bolts right on to the rad tight.  I just don't know....  

Front after coolers came out early eighties The super liner was the first stab at it i believe  I think Mack was the first to introduce  them everything was 3 inch tube at that time!  but I could be wrong but Mack saw the benefit or air to air long before the rest of the pack  water to air was the media of choice for a lot of years! shortly after the superliner was introduced all other manufacturers started using the concept ! The tip turbine set up can be adapted to the 4 valve but would be labor intensive and if you add an engine brake there is a special adaptor to offset the turbine mount and would be scarce as hens teeth to find! 

5 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

my personal vote would be for the pyro .boost lacks you know it in performance . engine running warmer , you don't want to find out tooo late. 

I too vote pyro! I personally would dump the diff temp ! Put a boost gauge in ! Both tell a tail if you know what your looking for! Diff temp for a toy hauler is useless in my mind unless you plan on running the diff out of oil! Must have list for me are the two mentioned as well as voltage / water temp oil pressure ! 

14 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

If I may, emissions is not the reason Scania withdrew from the US market. There were other reasons. I later worked with the people who oversaw the US market.

 

Nice to see you hanging out Kevin! Nothing sounds nicer than a V8 Still miss the sound on our hyws here! the v8 and cab over population is slim here now ! 
We sold loads of these in the eight's ! Now a days the engine sound would be stifled anyway by the DPF ! you wouldnt be able to hear how pretty they sound anyway! 🙄

7 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Do you think you could get it with a crows foot? I've never taken apart a tip turbine before but I wish the best of luck to you. I know some of the higher horse tip turbine engine had coolant going through them as well, so that would be even more stuff to take apart. 

That came with 300 or more HP if I recall ! 285 was usually air to air only!

Well that sucks  I have heard of valves sticking on occasion ! guess you will find out as you pull it down!  Does your unit have a chassis mounted charge air? (bonus) or tip turbine style intercooler😪 ! ?