As Paul mentioned Pull the pan check the Cam and lifter on that cyl! There maybe an under lying problem! Before going off half cocked looking for a head! That said I beleive a 237 head will work But not positive on that!

There is no timing advance on what you have how ever you can check and set the timing!   Just wondering is the engine equipped with dyna tard?  hard to see there! If so pull the engine brake relay or disconect at the head and see if this changes your issue! I see two pictures here one with a jake switch replacing the original pump cover swiTch ! Is the clean one the engine you are using now???  I think you have a dynatard switching issue here! It will make the engine brake apply in a light load application if left on and not set correctly ! ! Disconnect at the head to be sure! a rubbed wire to ground will set the thing off!  If the stumble goes away you have your culprit!   NOTE If your using the built in switch on the pump theres a specific way to set its a bit tough to explain but will try  if you confirm what your up too there!

My opinion!

On 11/27/2021 at 4:51 PM, louisgbone said:

My answer to Joey Mack and Mark T is in the early 70's around 71 or 72 Mack developed the maxydine engine which had a RPM range of 1300 to 2100

it was a 700 RPM split mack built 3 engine of this configuration ENDTB675 rated at 237 hp 6cyl , ENDTB676 later known as the E6-300 rated at 285HP

6cyl engine and 1 V8  known as the ENDTB865 rated at 325HP all of these 3 engines were all painted gold to identify them the minute You opened the hood. Mack

thought it would be a good idea if You knew before You opened the hood so any Trucks built with a maxydine engine had a gold bulldog on the hood

to match or identify that the truck had a maxydine engine. When Mack brought out the E9-1000 I don't know whether they made a maxydine version

of it or not I was gone from Mack from april 1978 to oct 1982 when I returned to Mack.

The first 400 Hp E9 were Maxidyne As the horse power increased they dropped the the Concept for what ever reason probably emissions ! Thanks for t dispelling my roomer by the way It was just the way I heard or perceived It! 🙄

36 minutes ago, The Rubber Duck 006 said:

Almost sounds like you've got warn out parts like the other guys commented and like you've got air in the system somewhere. Even the foot pedal for the extend a hoe is hooked to the hydraulic pump. Sounds like the old girl needs a rebuild to me. I own a Case 530 Diesel 

ya your likey right ! and likley will be working around it ! Can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! 🙄

2 hours ago, tjc transport said:

if it is the same all rpm.it could be tired control valves, or worn linkage and pins. with machine off feel if there is play before the valves start working. that will be worn pins/rods.

if it is tight, it may just be tight valves and you are being "heavy" on them

when we got the brand 2023 315 cat excavator, i had to relearn how to run it as the controls are VERY sensitive. the old 94 312 excavator controls were so worn out you had to be heavy on the sticks.  the 315 you look at the controls and they respond. 

my friend had an old john deer 310 double ender that had worn out valves, rods, pivots, and levers. 

when we replaced everything it was like a new machine. no more fighting with the controls.

When I get a chance I’ll pull the cover a check into the pin and Clevis idea I kind of doubt it cause the extend acts abit funny also when operating it with the boom and it is foot control!  

2 hours ago, tjc transport said:

are you are full throttle, or idle? 

full throttle does weird things to hydraulics. 

i very rarely run more than 1/2 throttle in machines.

 

I've Tried at several RPM Full and half pretty bad in most all positions Rpm wise! You really have to concentrate on the levers to feather them if you pull both in full its pretty even level wise trying to compromise speed with level not so much real bad in fact!  Thanx for the replies by the way guys! Any advice is appreciated! Not knowing what the machine should feel like new and not knowing history makes it hard to tell lack of skills is another issue !  Lack Expertise  is also in the mix! Like anything EXPERIANCE is very helpful! Likley a mix of operator and worn out machine! may have to do one function at a time to avoid Breaking things Its pretty violent at times! Also to add the extenda hoe gets jerky as well!  I thought maybe starving for oil??? Duno? the filters were changed not long ago!

Well Guys  for those who were following the bellow 450 JD Post Updating the 580 purchase here !Just getting around to making some use of the hoe and  So as one might expect the old case didn't come with out its ghosts! I am not an operator by any means But ! 

The boom seems like its on a hair trigger when you try to operate it  up or down And when you try to feather the stick and boom everything becomes very jerky Makes for a not smooth machine to operate Is it just the operator or is there something a guy can do to curb this feel! hydraulic tank is full!  swing and curl seem good power is OK it is Old ! but  it will easily  lift the machine of the ground !Is there something I should be looking into curb this issue! just wanted to pick the brains of any of you that have had one!May have to just live with it I don't want to install a new pump if this is the issue think it is over 2000 here And I can just work around it for that price! 

Thanks

21 hours ago, Bluebulldog said:

I wander truck has 750k on it.   I’ve only had it since 680k.   That or a unit pump I wandered???

Should likley throw a code if it was a pump ! Check out Joeys theory First then  clean the crank sensor !  and the block grounds! I lean towards a fuel pressure issue too!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

1st.... Stop using Ether.. does it start back up after it runs for a bit?

Have you pumped the hand primer before starting it to see if you have fuel pressure in the galleries?

Have either the cam or crank sensor been touched before this issue?

No Ether.....

The fuel transfer pump is a good possibility! The hand primer mentioned  By joe there should prove this theory! The crank sensor could have a build up of clutch dust and fragments on it remove and clean that! Clean the block grounds under the starter! all easy stuff to check! before using the parts canon ! AND AS STATED  No Ether.....

15 hours ago, Mackpro said:

I believe the flywheel can be turned but there are strict guidelines and bulletins to follow. The lineup shaft for installing the clutch is different than a regular clutch. As FJH said always replace the clutch actuator and the airline inside the bell housing while your there. We also replace the clutch air controller solinoid that’s on the outside of the bell housing as well. It’s a easy but expensive job. It’s by far the easiest clutch job to do compared to manual trans trucks . Most Mdrive clutch failures are due to issues with the actuator or controller. I’ve seen 700,000 mile on a original clutch before. 

In my opinion don't shortcut the job! If you got good mileage out of the first clutch stick with all new stuff start over! If the trans is programed to start out in 4 th have it programed to start out in second or manually select it ! specially if your pulling any kind of weight! much to my dislike of auto. these trans are pretty tough and like anything they have a weak point or two! If the trans has a 2 speed reverse option resist the erg to shift it on the fly! It can shorten the life of the synchro in my observation ! I have been away for a year or so now and things may have changed some however ! Mackpro the man here still at it and has the best advice !  I am just a sidewalk superintendent  Now!

Just an opinion!

Just be careful here ! Before you get carried away ordering parts! Check your cam shaft and lifters before proceeding! I Have seen a failed lifter cause this issue!

So the M drive clutch replace can be done by most any mechanic! The problem is you need to know what to replace! Which is almost everything inside the bell housing including the flywheel YES  It will need to be calibrated ! The job is not cheap to do! and unfortunately  you would likely best off doing it at the dealer! Trying to cut corners by not replacing the clutch actuator is not a good idea ! This is one of those jobs you want done right from the get go!

17 hours ago, mowerman said:

Well thanks for that. They haven’t really made many  improvements. Bob

Correct! It still has Volvo written on it!

9 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Is that anything like "brain science"?

Quite similar!

1 hour ago, Anonymous said:

Can anyone guide me on replacing the wiper pivots on my CH613? I can't really tell how to get at them. 

 Everything is behind the catch tray under the windshields be carefull taking the motor bracket off the bolts / screws can be a bitch to get out!

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

Good deal..  

yup innovative Repair! 

3 hours ago, Granitecv713 said:

Thanks, will post pic’s shortly. I saw the Dorman pump , but concerned about reliability of the product ? My drip is at the bottom of pump / appears to be a round puck held in by internal snap ring . Hopefully has an o-ring that can be replaced ?

That originally had a filter bowl attached and was deleted due to the awkward nature of its placement! You could try replacing the oring!

12 hours ago, fjh said:

Transfer Pump 

 

 

Amazon  Dorman pump 370 bucks Canadian!

 

•  

 

Dorman 285-5500 Fuel Transfer Pump, Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon Canada

Plastic drive is the norm! Pai is an option for a source!

31 minutes ago, macattack said:

Thanks Terry.

Do I have to  drain the oil?

no

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

''That Whathh Cool''   ''Did I just Score''?

YUP!

I second the liner protrusion! That era of engine had liner protrusion set too low! for the horsepower! the spec got change in later years from  low spec ~ 19 to 23 if you can achieve 25 or above is best!