fjh

As mentioned change it out to the air fan they are rubish! Do it once and be done with it! Chances are the new one will be kick right out of the box! Note you will have to have the program changed to suit the air fan!

Tire need to be roughly 3/4 to 1 of an inch below the top frame rail loaded or not! There is a proper gauge for this how ever this is a get by! Experiment with it! There is an 18 mm head bolt that holds the ride valve to the frame  loosen and tweak the bracket. And tighten bolt the bags and refill and check the height it’s easier if you on a flat slab and measure from the slab to the frame at the back it’s all doable from the outside!there is usually a hole you can bar through to change the mount bracket height!

19 minutes ago, Stacyb said:

Mack 2013 ch613 vibration starts at 50 gets better at 70  driveline balanced new u joints does it bad when loaded trailer at 50 to 60 new tires didn’t change this balance didn’t help feels like it’s in floor then sometimes like seat little in steering at times new back motor mounts  any help would be greatly appreciated 

Air suspension? Ride height ?

19 hours ago, Supermutt said:

I dropped them off to be tested a a Bosch pump  shop. The guy there said the green paint marks were a QC mark from the bosh factory. They are most likely the original injectors.  Pretty sure they are going to be nfg. 3 out of the 6 definitely had bad o-rigs as they were soaked with fuel and leaking out the head. 

You should be changing your oil then!!! 

1 hour ago, Dtech said:

Yes I have checked for boost leaks, The black smoke is only when I was manually moving the Rack inside the fuel pump. Items I have checked so far Turbo, Intake, air filter, air compressor supply line, Air charge cooler, Fuel psi, exhaust restrictions, valve lash, Cam Timing, Injection timing, Tps, intake air temp sensor water temp sensor. The scanner shows it going to 100% load. I can only watch the following parameters oil psi, water temp, intake temp, tps, load, rpm, road speed, and voltage. Can anyone shine some light on the torque limit circuit for mac I, why would wire 36 be labeled positive and wire 46 be a ground? I also don't understand why the wires have voltage on them. 

Bro!
So post the model and year of truck and last six of the vin there are guys on here that may be able to help either the vecu wiring set up . I no longer have access to this stuff ! There are a few here that may! I would think there would be voltage down one wire to that switch! And back to ground at the vecu! Does the power show up at the wire at the switch?at the transmission? If so a full 12v or .7

That is the switch the wire I’m not sure! Have you checked for boost leaks black smoke is a good sign! You got fuel! lack of air may be your issue! Air filter new? Check the turbo ! Check thectube at the compressor inlet and at the manifold left side for holes also by pass your air drier temporarily for something to try! They can dump boost as well!

So I need to ask what trans do you have and are there any codes coming up other the the inlet air ? If you have a 18 speed Tran s un plug the low range switch at the rear shift cylinder see if this changes things! If the wiring to this switch has rubbed together anywhere between the switch and the vecu it will de rate the power by 50 percent! This will not throw a code the computer will think this is normal!follow that trouble chart you have posted there if you can locate the two wires to the switch cut or remove them from the vecu plug this way the vecu will never see a closed switch!

14 hours ago, 70mackMB said:

Will!  Thank you for posting what the problem was. Too many never let us know "The rest of the story".     .....Hippy 

Agree totally with this statement ! spring brake is the most common failure with this symptom, there are a few other issues that can happen How ever yours fell in to the most common category !    Thanx for posting the fix! 

All good bro ! Took the leaky boom cyl out had it repaired and repaired  to the tune of 1600 other than that it’s working out well! Haven’t had much seat time yet been busy with other shit! Thanks for asking! I think after using the 4x4 I can hear a bad u joint in one or both of the for lack of a better term cvc joints bit of clattering on turns!   May have to address these at some point apparently there are 2 u joints per side! not to much info on line but haven't searched hard on this yet been too busy with  other stuff!  

2 hours ago, R.E.D said:

My 10 speed t310m had a similar issue, shift fork was very worn also in conjunction with worn synchro gear ...I took the rear cover off and welded the shift fork up and grinded it down to size..this quick fix got me through the busy summer..then rebuilt the whole transmission..like FJH mentioned,the rear part can be removed but will need a specialty bracket to hold the 3 shafts in place...if truck is new to you ,I would remove transmission completely and have it gone through....main boxes are kinda bulletproof, synchros are the Achilles heels.

 

Just my .02 cents

RED

Yup to avoid buying tools pull it stand it up on a wheel rim of the appropriate size or two 6x6 wooden blocks and pop the back cover ! Recommend checking the rear bearings on the main case while you’re there how ever not nessary just a precaution!

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Just drop the box out, stand it on its bell housing and lift it apart, PAI stock all the parts as far as I know

They are pretty simple to work on

Use the proper gaskets and silicon, sicka flex or form a gasket and you'll be right

Must of been a pretty hard change that broke the gear or dog, these boxes are regarded as pretty indestructible 

 

Amyway as to the 18 speed, it will fit but Im thinking a fair few changes are needed

 

Paul 

Agree with Paul ! If you have the access to an 18 speed fuller( out of a Mack) then that would be an alternative ! That said you will loose all your back up speeds fuller has 2 your 12 speed has 5 ! The problem may involve a broken shift fork or shift rail ! the model of your unit makes for a difficult remove narrow frame ! You could pull the floor plate remove the center shift lid and look at the rails and forks how ever it sounds like the trans has to come out! Can you post a picture of the piece you have found on the drain plug! the only dog clutches in this are on the splitter and you still have hi /low Correct?

3 hours ago, Digger Dan said:

Only low range gears and I believe in high and low on the splitter. (1-10 if I am counting correctly)

Plan A

just sayin! It’s a pricey project however! Is what it is! 

Nice my favourite! Model bar none for a dump truck !stand up oil change!😂It’s best to pull the transmission hatch if the box controls haven’t been mounted over it you might get lucky most box guys don’t consider that someone may have to pull the transmission some day! The trans can stay in the truck to do the back section but likely have to go to the dealer to have it done! Still check the yoke bolt and fork bolt also answer joes question there that is important too for proper diagnostics!

Cl713 likly has a Cummins in it! Check the rear output yoke for tightness! These were quite an issue behind the Cummins ! If it’s tight remove the top rear shift lid and check the shift fork bolt ! If it’s tight then the back section of the trans may have to com off and neew synchro plates installed!

Yup good thought Joe ! That said had this happen many times ! Shit got in the injector on installing of the line just my observation! AC engine particularly bad for this because of all the crap in the way !Replace the injector! Good to go! Cylinder not getting fuel! 
just sayin!

If you have bad compression I think it would be smoking! Do you have  blue white smoke or excessive blo by? if not go with the bad injector theory!

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Did you crack a fuel line to find the dead cylinder? Did you do the valve adjustment by the book?  

does the engine have an engine brake? 

The ground breaker can simply be by passed to get out of a pinch! Also if it does turn out to be the relay ! Make sure you’re given a constant duty relay cole Hersey is a common replacement and they make both and  look identical! 

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Rotten battery ground cables...  String enough to light a light bulb, but can't carry amps for cranking.. there is an acc. Relay behind the center of the dash under the cup holders.. it looks like a Ford starter relay..

i second the relay

On 7/8/2023 at 2:59 PM, Mackpro said:

The software update has to be done when the the EPRV delete is done so I hope it was done as well. Also injectors can have issues bust usually log codes. Also camshaft lobes are known to slip on the cam tube and this causes low power with  and without fault codes. 

yup another smart move in the name of saving a few pounds! At least they could have keyed these, Nope!

Kevin posted this years back sheds some light on the relationship! The mack  V8 was molded around  the scania V8! 

Wow never seen a mid liner in a rd! Seen a fare few scania engines back when scania was associated!

1 hour ago, tjc transport said:

no, i meant you.   

TLC is EVIL! 

12 hours ago, Salpolit said:

Update, pulled injector number six found it extremely fouled and covered with carbon. Pulled the other injectors, and found all of them, except for cylinder one were fouled out. Most O-rings were torn, and half the injectors did not have the middle O-ring installed.
 

We have six new injectors on their way in. I hope to have them installed by Thursday. Praying this fixes our issue but I think this is the problem.
 

the bottom oring has been deleted its a not necessary oring the  only orings needed are the ones that seal the fuel from getting out of the steel line and the top oring to keep the oil in the engine!  I have seen the older injectors used that has 3 oring groves  on the return they deleted the bottom oring ! as Joey mentioned the groove half way down the injector is an assembly point!