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I have a Makitata 12 amp 12 inch ! Had for years We had the very same machine at work and worked its ass off stood the test of time so I bought one for my own use! Still going strong That said stuff aint built like it used to be! so all bets are off !

Im very concerned here that you may have a restriction in the return line! Once you establish where the fuel is coming from as joe has explained there And IF its coming from the fuel pump Again I You need to be checking the return line for a restriction replace the drain back valve and check the fuel pressure to be sure its not going to much over 80 psi! also make sure the return line is clear just my opinion! If the pump has failed there may be a reason ! Just sayin!

I will suggest this once again Before you throwing a big bag of money at this! go to a parts store get some standyne fuel conditioner and Overdose the fuel tanks with it ! I" ve seen this stuff perk up pumps before its worth a try before pulling the the pump in my mind! As Glen is saying here if you have the cover off Providing this is an AMBAC Pump you will be able to see if the rack is sticking by simply looking pulling the stop back if the rack does not return to idle after the stop is pulled and released there is definitely a issue in the governor or rack area! the The standyne lubricity formula MAY Help free things Up ! Just sayin! Worth a try!

Well may be contact the PAI guys and ask! They are quite knowledgeable dudes and from my experience here in Canada Good at answering questions! Can't hurt to ask!

is the check engine light coming on?

sorry can't answer the question either Joe! kind of weird the reman center center didn't pick up on that ! all thou someone may have been into it after the fact! That said is the engine equipped with engine brake! This could have made the difference? just sayin!

Or you can look it most often happens on the top RH of the cooler due to hot incoming air! You should also be trailing smoke under load!!

We would often remove the clutch from the fly wheel in RD applications due to the lack of space under the cab! Just sayin! It actually is a lot easier to re and re this way ! doing it this way! no wasting time aliening splines yada yada ! The hardest part installing is getting the pressure plate bolts started back in once you got two or so bolts started your laughing!

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro? Three indicators of a boost leak quick High pyro low boost . Trailing smoke while under load @ rated RPM anywhere from 1200 - 1600 you apear to have a maxidyne it may pull lower than twelve how ever key here is pyro temp 1100- 1100 deg 1200 is pushing it! with the maxidyne you have a wide power band

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro?

Yup I got a shop full of junk that MAY have a use some day😡 ! at some point something has to go! I have an old vintage lathe I no longer use I want rid of Can't sell or give it away! Has Dozens of accessory's! It may have to go to the scrap guys!

22-28 lots of variables ambiant temps load ect!

Not necessary !This was developed for real cool climate warmup believe I have wired a few of these closed !It by passed the after cooler for quicker warm up rather usless to the average guy!

RACK is the rod that connects the plunger segments Joe is Talking about they are calibrated together ! If one or more segment gets stiff it can lead to stalling or worse a run away ! That said chances are it could be a governor issue also how ever ! Sounds like you have solved part of your issue there try a dose of Standyne Or Howes fuel conditioner in the tank and see if it changes your Drivability issue!

Bud if it will start again make sure the tank is venting crack the fuel cap loose and go for a drive ! if the tank breather is plugged it will create a vacum and suck the fuel back to the tank!

Agree with this you need to start at the front and work back on this! Drain back valve First / check valves in the transfer pump ? Have you looked at the lines and filters yet? Judging by how quick the start issue happens it may be the fuel pump rack sticking at low RPM! Try some fuel conditioner Standyne or howes fuel condtioner See if it smartens up! Just something to try!

Good score! Real bargain!

you should check Amazon Free shipping when in stock! 😜 You may find that the crystal Ball assortment quantity's are low to there' s been huge shipping delay's I hear!🙃

Chances are you won't Find it ! As you said you WILL replace the lift pump! ain't worth taking the chance on your dime! You can't fix what you can't see! Magic wand time! 😁

Buddy My thought here is that transfer pump ! bench testing is not a reliable test in my mind ! As the engine is not tuning the shaft ,Static the shaft may not leak but turning it and any gear vibration may change your scenario it may leak ! Just sayin! Ya the fact that three machines in a week is suspicious !but at this point I can't connect any dots myself! Hope fully you fine some cracks in the heads but its a long shot! That said was the bore on number 6 injector pitted from rust and not sealing!?

Yup if that spring has any slack either side it will can surge! Unfortunately as you obviously know the breakin is important Once everything is glazed over its hard to correct! The best breakin is hard work! warm the engine to temp And give it all its got loaded! in moderation! bar non the best thing you can do for a new engine or rebuild ! Odiously some common sense is required here however...................

Joe if the engine is NOT CCR the Injector top Oring on the injector can let fuel into the heads Seen this happen as noted ! You may not see it unless you pull the caps! Also running that high of fuel pressure may have compromised The fuel pump Seal new or old! Just sayin!

Your lines are defiantly out of whack And the ambac pumps after warmed and years of use would surge as you described from Governor wear!The other thing that will make them surge is the throttle lever breakover spring being loose and worn!

Is the fuel pump plug still in tact if so try disconnecting it and putting it together a half dozen times and see if this helps your situation it may need re pining ! If it has been hard wired then all bets are off! obviously! If the issue goes away after you do this Either have the plug repinned if you Can find anyone that has the tools OR Hard wire the pump ( Due away with the plug!)

I think your on the right track ! I would check fuel filters then check the fuel pressure should have a minmum 60 80 psi under load