fjh

7 to ten thou would not be unreasonable! 

13 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

We see lots of cracks in the lower DPF housing right above the DEF doser.  We mig weld a bead over the crack and so far have not had any come back yet. Yea Tech Tool never talks about that kinda stuff. 

Yup In the case above we pushed the unit into a regen FIRST and that's  when the leaks show up the best the cracks open up and it all becomes apparent!

On 3/13/2018 at 3:43 AM, OJ Avery said:

regen took care of it?? cleared code, drove, all good Why?? I also had another mp7 come in with same code yesterday, immediately took it outside and did regen, code gone?? I don't understand why this is happening, anyone have an explanation??

Some answers to your questions and some things to look for!

We did one of these last week it turned out to be the usual crack in the flex pipe (EXHAUST LEAKS) PRE dpf  (in part)  And Two Cracks in the ASH can  one at the DEF doser  and  one at the flange leaving the ash can!  All contributing to lack of heat!  The One thing guided D  doesn't tell  you ( and should)  is to check for exhaust leaks or cracks in the DPF BEFORE you run guided D You tend to waste alot of time looking at the screen and doing stupid tests  when you should be looking for a physical issue!  We sometimes tend to forget the simple shit and rely too heavy on the tecky stuff!  But if you are getting oddball  nox   efficiency  codes  and doser issues  bla bla bla  good idea to check further up stream for a physical  problem first! before proceeding with the tests !

Yup I agree ! In my opinion that's what these forums are about! And I don,t mind sharing my experiences with people ! However its only polite to do the same back ! Alot of these guys have been nubies . The smoke one awhile back was a frustrating thread! Guy never posted what happened!  It may save some else grief at some point!There Ain't A big bag of money to be had in this game now ,Back 20 years or so a guy could make a buck NOW With all this Teck crap on the trucks your lucky to drive past a shop with out having to turn in to get something fixed or diagnosed !  

Well I for one would like to hear the resolve to this issue if you do reach the fix for this please post it!

There has been quite a few posts lately that end up with no resolve!

And I also agree pulling the pan don't cost much and worth a look after you check the end play on the crank! could be a broken block  also who knows?  This is quite an odd senerio ! We had an  e7 with an od knock at idle presumed it to be injectors fuel knock piston slap bla bla bla ended up showing up as a cracked block after several months BEHIND the compressor! what we thought was a leaky compressor gasket!

The shift fork set screw can come loose as well all of the above pertain most odvious check to make righ now is that the yoke bolt is tight ! if not it can get pricey

I have a gauge built with a long whip on it 6 ft or so put it thru the vent window and drive it to get (REAL TIME) DATA in todays lingo ! Poor mans dyno!

Drive around the block in a higher gear foot on the brake and throttle to the floor the gauge as stated shouldn't drop much below 20 under this condition

if so you have either a restriction bad hose ,Bad pump    OR (A TANK VENT PLUGGED)     the last thing there is commonly overlooked ! Got burned on that the odd time! that also will show up on the gauge it  will fluctuate! 

symptom of that is similar to yours runs good for fifteen minutes or so then dies out!

just something  else to look for.

I havent seen any here!

So how much more def are they using ? And what about the particulate was that not an issue? No dpf?

Sounds good to me I agree short sighted! Still got to fix the  cheapass wire and dollar store sensors!😠

Do to regegs and a crystal sub and see if it clears it it simulates a work cycle

On 3/7/2018 at 4:40 PM, Mack Technician said:

Imagine what incredible base engines would have emerged if emissions Research $$$’s had gone into perfecting an N14, 3406 or E7. 

Well Quite honestly there Ain't much wrong with the core engine (shit Did I say that out loud)  other than all the captive parts on it I prefer MP8 0ver the MP7  ,Having said that both engines have  decent build attributes aside from the head/ injector cup issues, However  the emissions crap as like everyone else's engines kills any profitability to be had , Cheap wiring / dollar store sensors Being the biggest issue .We just spent a whole two days chasing greened out wiring on def greened out in some highly improbable  places. nice straight piece of wire Buried in the harness next to the trany no less than for spots on the wire just ridiculous .Totally unexplainable other than cheapass wire!

Rant of the day!

So you first posted this on the 28 of feb ! Again I say  So much for The MACK commitment to service  and Uptime!

Is the truck still not on the job? If not I think its time to go higher up! Voice your dissatisfaction! Unfortunately Its not the dealers fault and they are likely doing all they are allowed to do ! This is the point where the squeaky wheel needs to be greased !Phone the 1800 get satisfaction number and get the ball rolling! Throw the commitment to service  and Uptime in there face Ask em what happened to that !!!!

IMO either seal pictured is a good seal national and c/r are descent seals The stemco voyager seal is also a good seal !

 And I don't want to start a pissing match here however, IMO again, if your offered a stemco two piece turn and run! Over the years this seal went from my favorite to my most hated seal,  Now a days just an observation ,  if I find a leaking wheel seal on a unit  7 times out of 10 its a stemco two peice I Won't use one unless I'm Desperate ! 

Just An opinion!

Well I for one would like to hear the resolve to this issue if you do reach the fix for this please post it!

There has been quite a few posts lately that end up with no resolve!

Check plastic line from the fuel pump to the head for wear and tightness check  the jumperline betwwen the heads for leaks and tightness!

In my opinion!

You can stuff as much air down it you want , It anit gona give ya much more power unless the fuel is there to go with it!

These can top 0ut @ 40 psi with xt file rarely seen em go over that!

If you don,'t have fuel you likly wont get any more boost

3 minutes ago, ultratruck said:

I have had problems similar and it would rip the center out of 1 clutch  then go a while and the rip the other one time after time after about 3 or 4 months.  I checked everything to do with the engine, clutch and transmission. After 4 or 5 times I figured it was the angle of the drive line caused from warn suspicion parts.  The drive shaft should  be inspected also. The vibration follows the drive shaft and if you have a fuller Eaton trans sometimes it will brake the pins loose on the synchronizer also.

Yup NO STONE UNTurned! 

34 minutes ago, RobM626 said:

1 hour ago, fjh said:

Worth a try! fly wheel run out can be checked with fly wheel on the engine! with a dial indicator! balance has to be done by a machine shop or by the dinosaur method I have stated just somthing else to check!   (leave no stone unturned!)

Highly doubt the clutch is hurt!

Should I tell them to just put a new flywheel on?

You need to identify its a problem no point in throwing parts at it ! changing the same part over and over is obviously not working! Like Kevin said get the District service manager involved  (what do you have to loose!)

Note ! The RD is not the nicest thing to pull the trans out of so a higher than average in and  out time would be justified ! 

Guess there stumbling again! 

We did a horse power upgrade on a unit here And ever since the engine brake power has been cut in half  been chasing this for months very little support for this issue as well. (unexplainable)  I guess  . Or its just imaginary!  THATS IT!    You have an over active Imagination!

3/8 air line connected to the inlet  is all that is required there I believe! the t fitting is for torque limiting! 

43 minutes ago, RobM626 said:

Like you mentioned use a dumbie input shaft and pilot bearing on a vice?

Worth a try! fly wheel run out can be checked with fly wheel on the engine! with a dial indicator! balance has to be done by a machine shop or by the dinosaur method I have stated just somthing else to check!   (leave no stone unturned!)

Highly doubt the clutch is hurt!

16 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Think past conversations will include you as far as low oil flow to top deck of engine. Keeping in mind oil powers your jake. Are you aware of which update remedies you have already, or someone previously, installed?

Ageed here your issue is not uncommon!  oil preasure / flow is the key! does it have an external oil source Kit on It!

Hi did anyone think to check the balance of the flywheel? It sounds like you have had many clutches if so. then if the fly wheel has been surfaced lots or even changed  it can change the balance of it just somthin  to think on We once chased an issue in our shop similar to this  on an E6 it turned out to be the flywheel! found it by mounting our input shaft dumbie  in the vice put the fly wheel and pilot bearing on the spigot of the dumbie shaft and the fly wheel would always fall to the same spot like an out of balance tire! ( The wonders of gravity) or frustration of it! 

1 hour ago, Mackpro said:

We have 10 or 12 common rail engines running around here for over a year and still have not had any problems that a software update couldnt cure. So far so good!

We also have half a dozen running around here And the same result ! To my surprise  few issues in the fuel system department, we changed a couple of rail sensors so far that,s it That s in keeping with the on going cheapass sensor thing that has always been a thorn!

(May)      have a winner :  we will see!

As for up time ! ?? They talk the talk ,but its the walking they have trouble with! They tend to stumble alot! 

22 hours ago, Mackpro said:

Yep , I tell people to buy a new Peterbilt cause the never break down ! 

Yup me to a PETE a real mans truck!   Just ask em!

Same dollar store wire,  same dollar store sensors on a new and ELcheapo  cab desigin  ! Just like everyone else having to run the same stupid crap for emission related issues!