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fjh

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Posts posted by fjh

  1. Could be the hose between the coolant manifold peices !  Very Common on a cold engine !A little more info would help! note that if the coolant has black oil in it it could have a failed  engine oil cooler

    If it has yellowish look to it it can be a failed trans or fuel cooler If so equipped!

  2. There torquing method is out to lunch in my mind tightening and loosening makes little sense in my mind how ever with such a wimpy bolt this method  may be needed!we did some the other day we used oil! WHAT ever!  any assembly procedure alterations will not totally  correct a poor hold down design! 

    • Like 1
  3. Yup oilly! also fairly common as strange as it may seem  is injector orings fuel can leak up by the injector hold down threads  ! and the fuel transfer pump  shaft seal can leak another semi common issue!

  4. Bro I got to ask has this truck been having any starting issues? We have had it where the cups are starting to loose seal and it causes the unit to never finish a regen for what ever reason ! once the cups were repaired life was good! just an observation!

  5. If it were mine  for the cost of a set of rings some bearings and a pan gasket while the heads were off, I would run a hone down the jugs  and install new rings just sayin!:huh:

    Never saw pressure blowing out of a front Teflon crank seal.  ( me neather) Also if the bloby is worse under power it can be a turbo seal issue also very common with the AI  and some AC turbos!  We also have several trucks running around with the cooler blocked off totally no coolant running thru or egr they perform OK ! sumthing to think on! be sure to replace the rocker bolts in any case

  6. The sex slave valve :rolleyes: was mounted on the fuel rail incoming line on the older first gen  engines  yours may not have it' it was done away with after a few years! In my opinion as long as your ecu fuses  are good and the connections at the firewall  pass thru are good no worn thru wires ect: you need to pull the pump and have it repaired! the rack controller is likely toast!:angry:

  7. The elab valve engages with the turn of the switch the engine should run with out the rpm sensor it will not run without the timing event marker on the pump but will throw a code and the check engine light will be on for both i believe ! Most often  By what your describing the rack control has gone west in these cases the pump has to come of and sent to a Bosch Fuel pump shop and parts replaced!

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  8. I would be squealing pretty loud about that!  If they plan on doing R AND D on your head and valves the truck could be down for two weeks or more ! they need to supply the dealer with a new head out of the box  MIN and just put it on there Ive seen this shit happen before ! I would recommend you make lots of noise!!

    • Like 1
  9. Sounds to me your doing it right the only thing I have to contribute and you probably already know and has been mentioned  can't say enough times is  SELECT SPLIT switch it and break torque right away ! Don't switch and wait! it wears the hell out of the shift fork if you pre select and wait! that little grind you hear once and awhile  is acceptable ! But  worth experimenting with different techniques to correct IT !  IE: engine brake on /engine brake off / usr the clutch don't use the clutch on the offending gear! experiment !! The 12 speed suffered from this same issue back in the day  and there were guys out there that have it down pat!

    I AM NOT ONE of them thou :rolleyes:!

    Teck  said it Here

    IMO- You can tell a good driver by front fenders and his slider clutch wear.

    Experiment!

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