fjh

Good job Man happy for ya! Probably won't hurt to torque  the studs after a few heat and cool cycles!

Good Job Bro !

Hope this cures the issue Bro Dam sight cheaper and easier than a cam job And does make some sense to the symptoms you talking about ! 

14 hours ago, Lmackattack said:

I drove a granite with a MP8 for the first time the other day pulling a 3 axle low boy with a PC160 and a few spare attachments. was only about 80k gross and I was fairly impressed with how smooth the engine pulled the truck up to speed. The engine brake was very strong as well,  I popped the hood and what a mess.... All I could think was that although the engine was pulling great I know one day will come that all that emissions crap will fail and render it a POS and cost the owner thousands. If I was to own one of those trucks I would seriously look to pull all that stuff off and just let the diesel do its thing . 

I If you want to see complication lift the hood on a BINDER with a Binder engine in it! You can barely see the engine with all the crap bolted to it It Is disgusting ! 

Make sure your primer pump is locked down!

Ya Don't know What ya Got Till its Gone!           

19 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

That drill shavings story shocks the conscience. Think the MP series is causing Gray Engine Amnesia at some dealerships, how else can you explain some of the stories on this site? Pay a high schooler $10 hr to help you get the hood off, set lifters up bore, etc. 

Yup think that is  a true statement ! How ever RIDER   I would'nt be so quick to say you would do the cam yourself you got to have a bit of a shop and a decent size press  or porta power to tackle the project with!  Unfortunately Mack had started hiring  VOLVO  thinking  type engineers by this time and started veering away from the keep it simple motto,  like bolt on cam gears ,  O ring and tubes instead of good ole  hose clamps  and hose  THE  true  Captivate  era was in ramping up !    Good JOB GUYS!  Make the easy jobs harder so the job takes  longer  (Creates employment  RIGHT!)

Yup good possibility  I remember you posting that! What a feasco ! if you find that this does come to a head as a lifter failure and its on the same cyl  look no further for a cause I would think!

you could try that how ever its not always  the exhaust roller that fails !

Hopefully mack tec and I are wrong! The chirp sound is usually heard At Idle and you can usually hear  it down low near the unit pumps and pick it out almost down to the cylinder front back or center!  Sometimes intermittent  !  Just sayin ! your symptom is not perfect for it however At  Idle  would be a dead ringer! We will keep our fingers crossed At this point!

Unfortunately  if the truck has an allision you will have to have the idle set AT a mack shop If you have a clutch heres a trick! you are already at base idle how ever !

Have the cruise switch off. The turn the cruise switch on, off, on, off, on off. Then you use the resume switch to set the hard idle wherever you want it.

Then step on  the clutch  that will set the base idle where ever you wish with in reason! 

Just a Note if the truck is an auto have the shop turn off set IDLE with switches after they have set it to your preferred RPM this will make it so default  idle dosent happen again  accidentally  as shown in the above direction! three times on/ off  =  DEFAULT idle

3 hours ago, RobM626 said:

Hey guys sorry was out cleaning snow for past couple days. I’m gonna have the clutch unbolted and check again. I did that about 5 months ago and listened to the motor and me and the mechanic both agreed the vibration must be coming from the clutch/transmission . That’s why I installed the 3rd clutch and then after that the transmission. Is it possible that if the flywheel is the culprit you won’t really feel the vibration as bad if the clutch is not bolted to it? And then once the clutch is attached I start to hear/feel the vibration and chatter from the clutch which ends up messing up the clutch. 

In my mind the more weight you add to an already out of balance situation the worse it is likly to get! even if the weight is balanced its self! you could try un bolting the clutch and turning it 180 on the wheel and re attach it ! see if it changes the situation Don't know if We asked this question DID YOU HAVE THE FLYWHWEEL   resurfaced? If you have not owned the truck since new then you would not have a clue If you have then you should have record of this being done! I have seen instances where 60 thou had to come off the surface to make em flat again thats a fare jag of meat that could potentially throw things out of balance at 7 plus inches from the centre line of the crank grams  count!  

Guess the metallic chirp is whats throwing me off ! Under boost is likly cause as stated could be any of the above mentioned things turbo base gasket is another thought! being as you have been changing eup rollers possibly the compressor inlet hose has split! its in that general area! Like I said I hope Im wrong about the cam follower thing Not a cheap fix!

Just saying !!! True however most times you can pick the lifter sound out at idle  can't explain the boost issue other than a boost leak  !

I hate to tell ya this but by what your describing sounds like a failing roller on a lifter!!  Hopefully I'm wrong and I will be happy for ya!

I Agree! I think that is a very  viable thought and worth a try! Would cost very little to zero dollars to do that  if you do it your self! that will isolate the engine from the trans with the exception of the pilot bearing! 

Yup ya got to have the will to build what is needed or wanted by the customer ! THE VOLVO ATTITUDE IS,..........  IF WE DON"T GOT  IT! 

YOU DONT NEED IT !!

50 minutes ago, james j neiweem said:

This may be the beginning of the end for Mack MR/LE

My exact thoughts James!

Pros One hr standup oil change if  I were to own truck this would be my top pick

cons 0

Sorry is this vibration evident while stationary? if so ,take the belt off and run it pretty easy to rule out the fan ! Did you get the ECU straightened out yet ?

I  still question the balance of the Flywhweel its self , Also what trans are you running ?Mack or fuller? 

I think your wasting your time pulling the pan your oil metals would have showed if something serious was happening down there!

Quite honestly the alleged 460 of this period in time was borderline power wise  due to emission standards !

The 400 would be fine I believe you would be disappointed with a 460 upgrade if you could do it anyway! These engines would max out at 33 psi boost and were programmed to  derate At 34 psi !  absolutely stupid ! 

Guess that rules out a broken crank then  Huh! 

In my opinion Leave no stone unturned !this may or may not fix your other issue ! However It is something a miss and worth spending 150 bucks or so to try! I just spent 150 on my Honda CRV because my fuel mileage is dropping (No codes ) And i'm chasing this ! They found nothing so I am still where I was how ever I needed to know !  They to a read on it checked the Cat operation ETC everything was in spec so its something the puter ain't seeing physical issue maybe Trans not staying in lockup maybe dirty throtle body who knows going there next thou! 

Wishful  thinking  James! 

32 minutes ago, fjh said:

Usually  what Mackteck said there is the case AS A RULE u don't swap a customers ECM out with out asking him if it is alright to do so if your using it to check somthing on another vehicle ALWASYS put it back! however people do stupid shit some times!

What ever was in your truck data file last time it was flashed will go in to that Ecm including the CAL codes for your unit pumps There is a slim chance That These MAY be causing your other issue . the cal code being different RARELY  affect the Engine Running  rough But however anything is possible! So As long as that dealer has the old mack software its worth a shot! in my min

So when we uproot unit pumps we number them. if that wasn't done then you have no clue where they went back in! in this case you need to confirm the cal codes on the pumps and reenter or confirm them  IF YOU CAN EVEN READ THEM  they may not even be READABLE NOW (Not positive on this)  But  I do believe you can see what is in the cal code area on the screen when you go in to change a cal code! Mack teck or mack pro may remember!?? 

2 hours ago, RobM626 said:

Can mack tell if the programming is wrong by hooking it up to their computer? Other than codes coming up that aren’t relevant to my truck? 

Is it a quick job or do you think I need to leave the truck there for a day or 2?

You will likely get charged An hour shop time! just guessing on that!

Usually  what Mackteck said there is the case AS A RULE u don't swap a customers ECM out with out asking him if it is alright to do so if your using it to check somthing on another vehicle ALWASYS put it back! however people do stupid shit some times!

What ever was in your truck data file last time it was flashed will go in to that Ecm including the CAL codes for your unit pumps There is a slim chance That These MAY be causing your other issue . the cal code being different RARELY  affect the Engine Running  rough But however anything is possible! So As long as that dealer has the old mack software its worth a shot! in my mind!

The Reflash with tell you only that the DATA is (Different Or the SAME)  and it will  ask    Do you still want to proceed !  you cant see what is different! in most cases  We always say proceed just in case they slip something in after the fact in the main frame ! Cases where we Don't Reflash is on early model 460xt engines that had the Extra Torque Engine File AS U MAY never get that engine file back! They were very stingy with it!