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16 hours ago, MACKS said:

Ok I got ya now,just had it in my head the internal adjustment would move the linkage also,thanks for the clarification..

The only time this doesn't apply is with a unit with hydraulically operated clutch fork  If you adjust the internal on these they will for the most part preposition automatically after a few pushes of the pedal ! 

There are many factors at work here ! However as usual it comes down to the MONEY ! Mack KW Volvo Freightliner  Don't mater  ! an in house part is a captive part BEND over boys you gona PAY! They will offer you a extreme Warranty but what they avoid telling you that the clutch and associated parts are  wear item s and your on the hook for them Oh by the way any wear on the fly wheel is unacceptable it will have to be replaced! the clutch actuator is worn we will need to replace that as well and the price for those will be over  5000 across the counter pricing not including labor and re calibration and computer time . yup and your Right they have created yet more  drivers that don't have a clue cause they don't need too  have any skill !  Don.t need to know how to stop got ABS , don,t need to check brakes Got auto Slacks ,Don't need to know how to shift got auto trans!

Steering is Next on the list and there working on it Boys! Won.t need to steer  Got GPS for that !   Oh Wait Don't Have a job I.m not needed!

Something else to think about!

This part of Kev's statement says it all  ( You have to genuinely care about the customer) And The big V don't give a rats ass about the customer OR its Dealers! They are simply interested in the money they can suck out of both ! 

Thanx for following up alot easier than pulling the fork!

Quite honestly guys if you think about  It really don't mater which order  you do them the end result will be the same how ever linkage first you will avoid doing the internal one twice! The fact is the the linkage governs  the clutch brake squeeze as stated by Glenn!

Right now he just wants his clutch brake Back and Have offered  several solutions! 

(  Usually )  It will have PTO stamped on the back of the case if it has the hollow shaft for the rear PTO!

So first take the cover off check that that the clutch brake is not just spinning on the shaft if it is you need to replace it! If it is still splined to the shaft Proceed as follows

because the arm set is maxed out PLAN B  I would loosen the jam nut behind the clevis at the arm back it back 1 or 2 turns then remove the clevis pin and turn the clevis back to meet the nut you just loosened now re fit the pin into the clevis and arm and try the clutch brake!

if you run out of thread on the clevis  PLAN  C  loosen the Rear most nut on the clutch cable Sheath two turns or so Then tighten the front nut!The objective here is to make the fork closer to the throw out bearing assuming you still have free pedal! once that's done and once you achieve clutch brake you will need to reset the clutch with the winder on the face of the pressure plate so you have a 1/2 inch gap between the clutch brake and the bearing face to achieve your 1 1/2 free pedal that you should be used to having by having a properly adjusted clutch! There is a plan D AND E how ever  Last resort! Don't want to go there unless forced too! 

For a fuller trans yup!

On the mack they provide an adjustment on the lever if that has become seized  ( Likely Why no one wants to adjust it for you ) you can remove the clevis pin and wind the clevis in several turns that will shorten the cable in turn that will give you more clutch brake and less free pedal!

once you got the brake where you need it  then you can set the free pedal  with the adjustment  provided on the clutch  itself . IF its not a solo clutch!

Make and model of truck?

for (most) normal trucks this is a linkage adjustment?

We have no more beaver pelts to trade so we have to go with the absolute cheapest thing possible ! 

the valve set marks are on the fly wheel remove the cover plate on the bottom of the housing  turn the engine clockwise  till you see valve set numbers and a line  place the line dead center in the hole  firing  order 153624  make sure you have overlap on the opposite number cyl in the window 1-6   2-5   3-4    are paired  so if your setting 1 you need over lap or tight valves on 6 and so on   and  usually the valve set  lash    16 intake     24  exhaust but changed  a tad for some years

 check valve cover lash is usually on the tag!

Good luck

11 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

No. 

Agree!    The Short list!  Fuel lines are metric. the drive hub likely  won,t fit the mount May or may not be drilled for rob bosch! There are likly lots more oddities!

yup missed ya bud!

Also be aware that if you decide to go with oem there are  3 different grades of chair  light medium and severe duty we just did a severe duty on a  RB cement truck last month took out the light duty one   .

Its q pain how ever with bolts out try get the non lever side out first it has no key!   the clutch arm has to has to come off as you need to remove the woodruff  key on this side and have to turn the shaft to get to it!once that is done the shaft will come out far enough to remove the fork!

You will likly have to remove the rear motor mount to get the drivers side shaft past the frame! you have a CL it has thick mounts it will gain you loads of space

it can be done!

I mainly have nothing but respect for guy? So knowledgeable,hope everything is fine also.if your out there budy chime in!

James Me thinking the same thing Normally KS would be all over this Anthem propaganda  thing!  He carries  the same opinion of the mother M/V group as myself.

Kev

sent me these links!

https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/AutomotiveNews/AutomotiveNews_EN/MANN_HUMMEL_Automotive_News_2012-2_en.pdf

http://www.us.mahle.com/mahle_north_america/en/news-and-press/press-releases/modularity-and-functional-integration-in-the-engine-periphery-of-commercial-vehicles-7361

As Glenn mentioned in the log run it comes down to Cheap assness!

(WONDER Why THE big V aint gone Here yet!) ( CHEAP)

And in my mind the  the idea of having to disturb those filter inserts ( CROSS contamination )Far worse than filling a filter with clean fuel or oil!

So one small vote for the volvo method For now! ( Its only a matter of time till Cheap mode kicks in At the Big V !)

Any one know why  the likes of Mercedes and Scania  IHC choose to use canister type filters rather Spin on style filters?

Is it deemed more enviro friendly ? Just curious!

 

Rebushing rear suspension not rocket science just a lot of hard work if I could get 6k for that job that's all I would do

Camel back Rubber or grease  ?  Yup  me too ! 8 to 12 hours work plus parts! You need a real powerful 1 inch gun thou  1600 torque  on them ubolts !

Won't Crank Or won't Start? Which is it????  Two different things!

Well I guess my comment was based on  what he has v/s what he will have to change ! fuel lines the power tower  ect  ! 

Just curious what makes the rob bosch Hands down  better  than Ambac Brutus ?  I realize obviously parts is one issue !

again just curious !

 

If I make an attempt to adjust the linkage what exactly am I doing?  How do I do it?

example western star ! If you shorten the link at the fire wall  you will get more brake lengthen you take away! Set this first it never changes except for wear of the brake its self!  On Our Macks you have five places to choose from  the cable ends  ,the cable sheath both ends or the proper one on the trans arm its self if its not seized !    Then wind the ring inside to Get the 1 1/2 free pedal OR  = 1/2 inch  gap between the clutch brake and the throw out bearing! On MOST Vehicles! It comes down to how you like it set after that  I personally like the clutch to start engaging approx half way up So the 1/2 inch  gap  = 1 1/2 free pedal  ,  May be a A little less than 1/2 inch at the bearing  and more like 2 inch at the pedal for my liking !