turckster

I don't mean to start any crap or finger pointing BUT, your biggest mistake was NOT taking it back to the dealership. If I had done the work to this truck and there was a failure, I would want it back untouched for me to determine the failure. If a bolt broke- for example a rocker shaft bolt (powerleash) since they should be replaced when the shaft is removed, then it would be warranty. All damaged components would be replaced at no cost to you. Since you took it to a 3rd party that is not an authorized Mack dealer then I would, like the dealer you mentioned, refuse to look at it and would deny any warranty. I can't think of any other business that would accept that. I know the time frame thing was a factor in your decision, but taking it back to the dealer and pitching a fit or contacting the right people may have remedied that since the repair had failed. But now its just too late.

Hot oil psi for 1996 E7-400 as per tune up manual: Idle: 10-30 psi Governed speed: 34-64 psi

Some info about that fault: Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 0 (Valid High), 3 (Voltage High), 4 (Voltage Low), 5 (Current Low/Open), 2 (Data Intermittent) Parameter Identification (PID): 270 Message Identification (MID): 128 Circuit Description: The Compressor Discharge Temperature (CDT) Sensor is a thermistor. The resistance of the CDT Sensor changes inversely to the temperature of the air in the intake system. When the intake air is cold, the sensor resistance is high. As the temperature of the air increases, the sensor resistance decreases. The Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) monitors the voltage drop across the CDT Sensor and uses this signal to protect the turbocharger and engine from overboost conditions. Location: The Compressor Discharge Temperature (CDT) Sensor is located at the right side of the engine, in the air intake pipe between the turbocharger and the charge air cooler. Code Setting Conditions: The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will turn on and code 9-5 will set with FMI 3 when the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) senses the CDT Sensor signal voltage is greater than 4.8 volts for 2 seconds. The EML will turn on and code 9-5 will set with FMI 4 when the EECU senses the CDT Sensor signal voltage is less than 0.15 volts for 2 seconds. If the CDT Sensor voltage returns to between 0.15 volts and 4.8 volts for more than 2 seconds, the fault will become inactive. When the engine returns to ambient temperature after being shut down at normal operating temperature and the key is turned to the ON position (engine not running), the Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) Sensor, the Aftercooler Outlet Temperature (AOT) Sensor, and the Compressor Discharge Temperature (CDT) Sensor should all indicate the same temperature. Under these conditions, the EML will turn on and code 9-5 will set with FMI 2 if the CDT Sensor signal indicates a temperature that is NOT within 15°F of the average of the three sensors. FMI 2 is only available with EECU version 1MS378 software. Additionally, code 9-5 will only appear as an active fault when the engine is NOT running. FMI 5 is only available with EECU version 1MS368 software. The EML will turn on and code 9-5 will set with FMI 5 when the EECU senses the CDT Sensor signal voltage is between 4.55 volts and 4.8 volts, and the inlet air temperature is above 110°F. Additionally, FMI 5 will only appear as an active fault when the engine is running. Normal CDT Sensor Parameters: The Compressor Discharge Temperature (CDT) Sensor has a resistance between 59,500 ohms at 50°F (10°C) and 3,500 ohms at 180°F (82°C). Additional Symptoms: Power is reduced to 90% when code 9-5 is active. At sea level, the power reduction begins when the Compressor Discharge Temperature exceeds 430°F (221°C) until only 60% is available at 500°F (260°C). Above 5000 feet (1524 meters), the power reduction begins when the Compressor Discharge Temperature exceeds 450°F (232°C) until only 80% is available at 500°F (260°C).

I thought the same until one rolled into my bay with multiple issues. Absolutely no updates had been performed on the engine--all old school components on it from the old egr mass flow tube and cooler, oil supply lines to the turbo/egr valve....everything original. Had a broken exh. manifold center section, turbo vgt linkage was broken, egr cooler was held on by the coolant hoses and tubes....a mess. But, the owner ok'ed all repairs and updates. To answer the OP, I think when they first came out they had their issues. But with the updates and so forth, they have proven to be some good engines. Still see them rolling around, working.

After the first replacement cam failed someone should have done a better job of failure analysis, especially if a dealer was doing the work. The only time the lifters should be replaced is on a flat tappet camshaft since the lobe and lifter face have a matching wear pattern. On a roller cam there is no need to replace all the good lifters as long as they are current parts. The camshaft is billet steel and hardened, the roller lifter never develops a pattern on the lobe or the roller. I do prefer to replace all ceramic lifters though because the tiniest imperfection will lead to a failure. That and if you accidentally drop one or it falls out of the bore, i would not trust it after that. That's just me though.

Check the dimmer switch on the floor.

Three things will shut down an engine: oil pressure, coolant level and coolant temp. Depending of the software step or version the transmission temp can shut down an engine too. As stated above, coolant level is the most common reason for shut down, be it a sensor issue or actual coolant level. Sometimes during the cold weather the coolant is slightly below the sensor, but after a little heat in the cooling system, it expands enough to cover the sensor probes.

Usually the "leak" is a hair line crack or over/under a fire ring. The majority if not all of the fire or heat from combustion is contained in the cylinder. Sometimes an engine with a cracked head will not show signs of a leak until it is at operating temps, or under a heavy load above operating temps. A cracked head is bad obviously, but combustion blowing past a fire ring will erode the steps on the liner. That is where the fire ring seals, once that is gone then the liner needs to be replaced. The radiator cap is a 10lb cap, so not that much combustion or air from a compressor is being pushed into the cooling system. I mean, its enough to push coolant past a cap but to build any heat from a leak the cooling system would have to be able to hold a lot of pressure and the leak would have to be a lot as well.

What is the reasoning for wanting to change the wiring? is it damaged? The reason for the 4-5 fault is the VGT is not in the correct position due to an electrical or mechanical issue. It could be cause by an air compressor that builds air too slow-- a VGT need at least 95 psi at all times or this fault will appear. Air governor cut out needs to be at least 130 psi on AC ETech engines. The problem could be a binding VGT linkage, bad VGT actuator or actuator solenoid, oil contaminated air supply to VGT actuator solenoid, VGT position sensor, connector/terminal corrosion or bad connection, calibration and so forth. With the engine running and at least 95+ air psi, the VGT actuator should nearly be touching the stop. It might move around a little but it should be nearly touching. Check electrical connectors for being secure, corroded terminals or loose terminals. All wiring should be secured and no exposed wire.

When you see this happen it is one of two things, combustion into the cooling system or blown air comp. head gasket. A bad air comp. can leak air into the cooling system and not push coolant into the air system. Only sure way is to isolate the air comp. from the engine cooling system. Remove the air comp. coolant lines and plug the fittings, refill the engine with water/coolant and run the engine, if the cooling system builds pressure like before then your problem is a head or gasket. If not, air compressor is at fault.

The oil psi sender is behind the speedo/tach in an aluminum block. The #4 line off the filter base runs through the cowl/firewall to this block then to the gauge. BTW, unplugging the coolant level sensor will activate the alarm. When the coolant resivior/tank is full the coolant completes the circuit, by unplugging it you open the circuit causing the kysor module to think the coolant is low. More often that not the coolant level sensor is the problem, scale builds on the coolant probe insulating it.

With the hand throttle on and it kicks out when the lights are turned on makes me think one or both tail lamp bulbs may be bad. Could be back feeding voltage making the vecu think that the brake is applied.

I'll adjust all bridges 1 flat, power leash is 1/2 flat on exhaust. I never have checked with a feeler gauge after the 1 flat adjustment nor have I ever seen anyone at our shop make that check. Only time I have ever seen guide pin breakage is on e-tech engines with jake brakes where the exh actuator pins(inside bridge) have excessive wear. Those should be checked at every valve adjustment even if they have the hardened pins.

An 8-5 code is a fault with the #5 EUP, the actual problem depends on the fault FMI. It could be open circuit, short to ground or positive, abnormal frequency (most common), erratic data and so on. A 3-5 code is a fault with engine brake output #1 - the front head engine brake solenoid.

There is a service procedure for DEF buildup and cause/effect but for the life of me I can't remember it right now. Its in Imapct, You might try using guided diagnostics, under the symptoms tabs there might be troubleshooting for that.

You can feel comfort in knowing that its not just a Mack/Volvo thing, EVERYONE is having issues with these systems. There is a tremendous amount of technology going on there in a heavy duty application, problems are bound to happen. Its tough enough in a large dealer network with diagnostic software and factory technical support to solve some of these after-treatment issues, but to be an independent trying to work on this stuff has got to be a hair pulling experience. On catalyzed systems the most common issues I see that causes SCR derate is bad DEF pumps and Nox sensors with a few EGR valve and/or EGR diff. psi sensor/veturi issues here and there. 7th injector/nozzels can still be an issue, when they get dirty they create all sorts of problems. On the non catalyzed SCR systems (trash trucks) I have replaced quite a few atomization modules and flame temp sensors. Luckily we don't see these all that often. We send DPF filters out to a local radiator shop that uses approved cleaning equipment. They flow test after cleaning and if it passes certain EPA flow requirements then it is reused. If not we sell the customer a new DPF filter. On non SCR ('07 emission) with the catalyst before the DPF filter, when it gets face plugged (dirty 7th injector) we use a piece of cardboard and lightly scrape off the soot and then blow out the catalyst.

I had looked through the tune up manuals and could not find that pump/engine configuration for '92, '93 or '94. Then I realized your location was Australia. Facepalm to me, should have looked before I had responded. Everything I have is for U.S. emissions. If the pump and valve cover are stamped 23 deg btdc then you may have another problem

+1 on that.

The rubber/steel braided line after the lead off line may be bad, especially if its old or never been changed. A spray bottle of soapy water should tell you right away. Soak the lines from the air compressor discharge to wet tank or dryer. If the line(s) bubble up there is your problem.

Bad speedo head is my first thought. If you have a diagnostic computer w/v-mac3 on it or prolink you should see mph on it. I would think if there was anything wrong you would have a fault and the odometer would not be working. If the mph is still off then the tire rev setting needs to be programmed with correct value.

The 7-5 fault is for vecu input voltage, 9-2 is power reset without key switch. Basically, there is a loss of voltage while the key is still in the on position. The usual culprit is bad battery connections or bad batteries. Other areas to check - bad ground connections at cab/chassis, ground relay or its connections. From Mack Information System: 7-5 fault: Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 0 (Valid but Above Normal), 1 (Valid but Below Normal) Parameter Identification (PID): 167, 168 Message Identification (MID): 142 Circuit Description: The Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) receives and monitors vehicle system voltage at connector J3 pin 16. Thresholds for battery voltage (engine not running) and alternator voltage (engine running) can be programmed in the Customer Data area of the VECU. Location: The Vehicle Electronic Control Unit is typically located in the cab, behind the right side dash panel. Code Setting Conditions: Code 7-5 will set with a PID of 168 if the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) senses that system voltage to the module has dropped to less than the programmed threshold for 10 seconds with the engine not running. Code 7-5 will set with a PID of 167 if the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) senses that system voltage to the module is not between the programmed limits for 10 seconds with the engine running. If the system voltage returns to normal for 1 second, code 7-5 will become inactive. 9-2 fault: Failure Mode Identifier (FMI): 4 (Special Instructions) Parameter Identification (PID): S254 Message Identification (MID): 128/142 Circuit Description: Switched power is supplied to the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) through connector J3, pin 17. The VECU ground is provided at connector J3, pin 18. Switched power is supplied to the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) through connector J1, pins 2, 3, and 5. The EECU ground is provided through connector J1, pins 4, 7, and 8. Code Setting Conditions: The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will illuminate and code 9-2 will set with MID 142 if the Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) senses a loss of battery power without the key switch being turned off. The Electronic Malfunction Lamp (EML) will illuminate and code 9-2 will set with MID 128 if the Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) senses a loss of switched power without the key switch being turned off. Code 9-2 generally indicates a major vehicle power failure. If code 9-2 is logged, check the following components for corrosion, loose terminals, and/or poor connections: Batteries Starter Motor Engine Ground Ground Circuit Breaker Left and Right Dashboard Grounds Power Relays Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) Fuse or Circuit Breaker Connections (MID 128) Engine Power Distribution Module (EPDM) Connectors (MID 128) Vehicle Interface Connector (MID 128) Vehicle Electronic Control Unit (VECU) Fuse or Circuit Breaker Connections (MID 142) Clean, repair or replace as necessary. To clear code 9-2, turn the key switch ON, turn the key switch OFF for 6 seconds, then turn the key switch back ON. The code will clear in several seconds.

Need engine year model, helpful to have injection pump part number and turbo part number as well.

Unplug the oil psi sensor and turn the key on, gauge stays at zero-bad sensor, gauge pegs out -bad gauge. Most likely its a bad sensor, hopefully its not leaking oil and contaminating the new harness.

Glad you figured it out

There is really not enough info, but for what you've given so far I'd say there is not enough temperature. If 900 deg is the highest it got (pre DPF temp) and the outlet was below this then your temps are too low. On a face plugged DPF/catylist the outlet temp will pass the pre DPF temp and continue to rise during the regen. Face plugging is caused by a dirty 7th injector-when the adaptive factor is near the top end of the chart. Are you sure the 7th inj. is flowing properly? Did you reset the adaptive factor for the 7th inj.? During a regen, what is the 7th inj. duty cycle %?, If it is 20+% then it is a sign of becoming clogged or poor flow. More Info needed