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About turckster

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    Lubbock, TX

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  1. turckster

    Ignition system

    A common problem spot is the engine to chassis harness. I have seen them chafe on the harness support bracket mounted to the air compressor head and cause a short. There are a few other rub spots for that same harness in that area as well. Another possibility is the harness from the cab to the frame. If it is not properly secured there are tons of rub points for it also.
  2. turckster

    Econovance on Aset Series ?

    The econovance was used on inline inejction pump engines to advance the injection timing mechanically. When the etech came out in 1997 it had an injection pump for each cylinder. The engine ecu used a cam position sensor and engine position sensor to determine TDC and adjust timing from there electronically.
  3. turckster

    Testing for leaking injector cups

    99.9% of the time I just look in the fuel tank at the return tube and check for air coming out. Make sure the plastic cap by the fuel primer pump is not wet and if you have the 7th inejctor w/air purge "T" fitting, remove the air purge line. If, after idling for a while, you still have air in the return pipe you most likely have leaking cup(s). Rarely have I ever used the clear line kit. Yes, I got bit once. The 7th injector "T" fitting was bad and air was getting back into the fuel system from there.
  4. turckster

    Hard start drives great ?

    Check by the fuel hand pump on the fuel filter base, there is a little plastic cap. When you pump the hand primer does fuel bubble out around the cap? If so then replace the cap, it is causing fuel drain back and air in the fuel. If it is dry, remove the fuel tank caps and check for air in the fuel return. let the engine idle for 5 or so min. and then check. If you have a constant stream or big blobs of bubbles every few seconds then you more than likely have injector/cup issues. When the injectors are removed, if 3 or more injectors show leakage then it is best to replace all injectors and cups. If only one or two injectors are leaking and all others show a good seal then only the bad injector(s) should be replaced. If you have a lot of mileage on the set then its up to you to decide a complete kit or individual injectors. I think the complete kits are priced in a way that is cheaper to replace a set than two or more injectors.
  5. turckster

    EU PUMP ?

    If he installed all EUP's without o-rings the engine would not start and would be full of fuel in no time. Plus, fuel would be running all over the right side of the block. I don't think I would be worrying about a 1/16" of an inch since so many things could affect oil level. Now 1/4" + in 1,000 miles--- maybe then I'd worry.
  6. turckster

    Need 12 speed help ASAP !!!

    Trying to remember since its been so long but I think what your talking about is an old design. Everything is the same as far as clutch brake adjustment. They used a spring loaded pad instead of a solid type to extend clutch brake life (?). Could be wrong as far as reason. Like I said, been a while since I've seen one.
  7. turckster

    Cold Regen

    Since you will be replacing the egr valve you should clean the 7th inj tip. We use Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner and a soft nylon brush but any quality carb cleaner should work. I wouldn't swap the dosing module. As a 7th inj. starts to get dirty its efficiency drops, that is it's adaptive factor (as the eecu measures it). When you replace or clean a 7th injector you need to reset the "adaptive factor" to tell the eecu to re calibrate to new. On Volvo/Mack software (PTT2) it's under the "aftertreatment diagnostics" tab, not sure on other software. During a regen the 7th inj. is at 100% to keep the tip clean(purging air), once the pre-dpf temp sensor reaches a certain temp then the 7th inj. starts to deliver fuel. Because the egr valve isn't closing all the way or leaking, it is cooling the exhaust temps enough to prevent proper temps. When going down the road under a load the engine was able to create enough heat to perform a partial regen. therefore the 7th inj. worked ok. Be careful when removing the egr valve mount bolts, they have a bad tendency to break off in the exh. manifold. Work them off slowly and use a lot of quality penetrating oil. When going back together use copper anti-seize on the bolt threads and under the bolt heads/spacers. Torque for the egr mount bolts is 35 ft/lbs. Good luck
  8. turckster

    Numbers on side the block help please..

    Need more information such as year, vin, model and so forth. That will help in identifying what you have.
  9. turckster

    Cold Regen

    Usually if the egr valve is ok the glove will expand a little but not pop. You will have some air in the fuel return when you start up an engine but it should go away in about 5-10 min. When not doing a regen the dosing valve will be at 100% to purge air--to keep the 7th inj. tip clean. Being under a load may have helped the regen to build temp but if its not happening during a parked or forced regen there is an issue. Many things will affect a regen form one reason or another, but not building temp is usually either a dirty/poor spray pattern on a 7th injector (adaptive factor percentage should tell you condition of 7th inj.) or an egr valve flowing slightly all the time. It will also cause frequent regens. Another thing to consider, with egr failures we have seen over temps with egr coolers as well (plugged). It may not happen right then but it will happen soon. Best to check inlet and outlet on the egr cooler if/when replacing the egr valve. Also, check the egr diff. psi sensor ports for excessive soot.
  10. turckster

    Cold Regen

    Your temps are slow to rise and never reach proper temps? is that correct? Problem could be egr valve never closing. Best check is to unplug egr valve electrical connector, removed egr tube that crosses the valve cover(since it the easiest to remove). Start the engine and there should be hardly anything coming out egr venturi outlet, you can hold your hand over the outlet with no resistance. We will attach a nitrile work glove on the outlet, with the engine running if it blows up and pops withing seconds you've got a bad egr valve. The egr gas will keep the exh. from reaching proper exh. temps during the regen.
  11. turckster

    Fuel delivery pressure.

    Check for trash in the bajo fitting on the eecu cooler plate. I think the top fitting is the inlet. If noting there check at the filter base inlet for trash. I've seen small bits of trash float around inside the inlet under that plastic cap and block off the tiny fuel passage.
  12. If you have fuel jn the oil it could be a leaking o-ring or through the injector plunger and or body. To determine which, remove supply and return line fittings, plug one and apply no more than 20 psi air to the fuel galley. Use soapy water to find leak.
  13. turckster

    2008 mp8 falls on its face

    How old are the injectors? Could be a cup leakage issue or the injectors could be the problem. When it is running poor? Is there air in the fuel return? You can see it in the return port in the fuel tank, if there are bubbles coming out in the return port you have leaking cups.
  14. There are cup plugs on the engine brake valve as well, make sure they are not loose or missing. Make sure the cup plugs on the rocker shaft are not missing or loose. Also, make sure all rocker shaft bolts are tight. It could also be an issue with the CCV spinner. There is a brass nozzle that sprays oil at the CCV spinner and could be loose or missing. Verify low oil psi with a mechanical gauge. Seen this issue several times on mp8 engines and response from e-service after checking everything was to replace the oil filter housing and that may be where you are headed. Attached is a PDF for low oil psi on a D11/MP7 engine, some of it does not apply to the D13/MP8 but it still has good info in it. 11 liter Low Oil Pressure Diagnostic Process_D11_Nov 2016.pdf
  15. turckster

    99 Mack will not start without ether

    Possibly the ground relay on the firewall. When trying to start, the relay pops open and you loose voltage to the eecu because either the relay is going bad/bad connection or the starter is drawing too much amperage/internal issue. Use a jumper cable to jump the ground relay terminals and see if it starts. If it does start you need to check the starter. Remove the ground cables, measure resistance from the starter ground pole to a ground point on the block. You should have an open circuit, if you have resistance the starter is shorted out internally.

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