Freightrain

5 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Interesting. So air start systems have a solenoid activated valve that sends air to the starter? Did they ever make them with a manually actuated lever or valve that you could use if you really hated having a good battery?

I never have been around anything with an air starter but sure have thought about getting one for the stuff we only use once or twice a year. Beats hauling battery's and cleaning connections in a hot shed. 

The early systems had a hand valve mounted in the cab(under the seat, with a handle sticking out) but they tend to leak pretty bad over time and will not hold pressure for long.   I wanted to use that valve in my B, but friend told me to NOT do it due to leakage.  Even though it would be period correct, I wanted reliability.   Now the dash valve is just a remote actuator for the main air valve mounted on the tank itself.  The tank valve cones in either electric or air actuation.

The tank mounted valves, in good shape, will hold for an extended amount of time.

My stick is over to the right but I made the shifter to bring it back over to the middle and have room to get into the bunk.  And not get twisted with the other two sticks.

6 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

based on memory (oh no not that ) the straight pins had the flat spot(notch) mid-way and a wedge pin threaded on one end went thorough axle to lock kinkpin in place. 

Like a twin I beam on a Ford pickup.

My axle was like 9-10, with the seal.  I have a few pics somewhere in my home computer showing the parts before installing them.

There is something odd about those bushings.  Almost like they need HONED, not reamed.  I seem to recall taking my spindles to my friends shop and using his pin home.  It's been a few decades so it's CRS.   Maybe I just cleaned the spindles so the bushing fit easier?  Too long ago.

I do know if you let the thrust bearing get too loose, the wheels will get a shake while driving.  Not until I jacked it up and realized they had worn in after 10 yrs, I resnugged them and it smoothed drastically.

My FA 517 was tapered pin.  I had it apart faster then it took to jack the truck up.  I was amazed.  I've done my twin I beam trucks that took days to get the pins out!!  Being tapered it took one smack with a 5# hammer and they dropped out.  One bushing was roller, can't recall if I had to resize the other end?  It was 21 yrs ago.  That was my first big job on the truck after I bought it.

I think I have a pump in my pile of parts but nothing to fit it to.  I was always curious how they mounted.

On 8/18/2023 at 5:33 PM, Joey Mack said:

I beleive they are thread-serts..  threaded bushings bonded into the original fiberglass..  Hes lucky they didnt twist out of the hood causing holes..  He may be able to drill them out.  they are replaceable and there is a riveter type tool to install new ones..

I used those to install my visor.  Better then just lag bolts!

8 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Mack called single-screw models "4 wheel" and twin-screw models "6 wheel".  You can see examples of that on the brochures I posted.

Most of those 673's had a HP rating on a tag somewhere on the engine.  Can't remember if it is on the engine or the pump, though.  I'm betting 211 HP, as I think that was the rating on the ones with no other letters after the engine model number.

The NA 673 were 170 or 185 for the split intake version.  The turbo was 205 hp.

Nice ones back in the 90s were out of my price range.  Took me a few years to get this one to a decent point.  Even today it needs a TON of stuff to actually complete it.  Not happening.

I swapped mine out years back, but I was lucky to find an R model with a 711 set up for a motor with NO oil cooler.  Bolted right on.  Hens teeth today.

I had messed with my full flow so many times trying to get the check valve to hold oil in the case so it wouldn't take 30 seconds to get oil pressure.  It would be okay for maybe 1-2 starts, then back to 30 seconds.  Never seemed to hurt anything, but just didn't like it, like I'm sure you don't.

4 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

In Australia there is a law that no flag is to be higher than the Australian flag

The only time a flag flys higher than the Australian flag is when the King is in the country and then the Royal Standard is up the top

One of our State governments got into big trouble in recent years for trying to be to politically correct and flying some other bullshit flag at the same height 

 

Paul

 

 

Like Mark says, the idiots in charge don't care about our laws AND history.  They want to destroy it all and make us all "woke".....smdh.

10 hours ago, mowerman said:

Not sure what you meant by that ha ha

The song that all the woke wackos are screaming about right now.  CMT banned from playing the video, etc.   "Try that in a small town" by Jason Aldean.

Wonder why they don't have Jason Aldean singing at the parade.....LMAO 🤣🤣🤣

Dang gone!  You don't have much luck with glass!!!  Are the fuzzy and felts missing from the tracks?  No reason the door glass should have broke.  Yes, the lock channel is a PITA to install.  I tried using the typical tool and broke it!  Had glass shop do it for me.  Best $20 spent!!

The air compressor will pass oil as the rings wear.  Mine would make a milkshake in the tank every trip out.  Spent the money on rebuilding it and been dry for 20 yrs.  It will sludge everything.  I pulled my air wipers, dismantled the motor, clean it and the valving on the end, new lines and it will throw the wipers off it runs so fast.  Many don't want to deal with them, but some simple maintenance and they work well.

The shutter control is another simple repair item.  Mine would leak air bad.  Just a simple rubber cup inside, mine was hard as a rock.  Found something at MacMaster Carr and it works perfect now.

I got signed back up.

Is it me, or is it really annoying when you CAN'T see your password as you type it?   Some give you an option to see it, many don't.

Ken texted me back before Macungie to see if I was coming.  I think he spends more time at the farm in PA then across town from me.

Last time we spoke he was working towards selling his MH and trailer.

When shoot Hank.  Good to hear from ya Eddy.  Glad you joined us.

Geoff, I know it's a "mack" website, but the more the merrier and most all of you guys have plenty of help to add to any of the sections of this forum.  Heck we even have a post in the Odd and Ends that is for "Off track" stuff that happens with most of the posts there.  It's been a running joke for quite some time, so a post was started.

On 7/10/2023 at 7:04 AM, tjc transport said:

The air valve was on the hose hoop.

Remove the hose would turn the air on. Put coiled hose back on hoop and air would turn off.

And as younuns, we would ride our bikes around the pumps over the hose ringing the bell until someone inside Got mad enough to come out and chase us away.

 

And if you cranked the handle, the pressure would increase.  If you did, it would blow the inner tube.  I made that mistake one day.  Dad wasn't happy with me because I cranked it up as he was filling it and didn't know it.  Lol.

Typical shutterstat has air supply to the stat and from the stat to shutters.

Yours looks like it might have a shut off valve from the dash to remove air supply so shutters are always open?  Like mentioned above, it takes air pressure to close them(sprung open for safety).

Note: the shutterstat is marked IN and OUT.  If you supply air to the wrong side, they won't open again(I found out personally LOL).

Shoot...I was almost there.  Guess I'll head north again.