Freightrain

54 minutes ago, The Rubber Duck 006 said:

I just want them to answer me if it's still available. I don't care about engines or the originality of the truck or motor. My boss has been looking for a Superliner and this is in his Price range 🙌 l

 

Time to call the number listed in the post?

Here is their website video

https://youtu.be/BVqfsTwC3HM?si=QODYMgyPbaj21_NJ

Wow, just shows how much information is getting passed around and having to figure out what is truth?

From my knowledge, they do have harbor pilots to navigate large ships because not every captain is aware of every port it comes into.  Plus the language barrier.

When they mentioned that the trailer would have to be moved on a barge.....ya, I can see why it will not be going anywhere.  The cubic money that would need to be spent and the restoration cost....way beyond my pay grade!!

Just watched a TimBatsea video that he spoke about this incident from his point of view.  Very good information.

https://youtu.be/IsdZVp0opsQ?si=Fvs_v5fuYMBh6B_m

I've scrapped old air compressor tanks.  They need like a min 12" hole cut in them.

I've scrapped old fuel tanks from vehicles.  I cut them into square pieces and then no one knows they were tanks.

Someone posted a live video shot of traffic on the bridge as it got hit.  Likely from a traffic camera.  It was on FB and I can't find a link now.

Tragic.

https://youtu.be/NPwFRRo4kqs?si=2gHQZHQ0cABSL7IY

18 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

https://speedometercablesusa.com/cables_and_housing_assembly.html

Just one of a few places that come up on a search.

I have used this place to get tach cables made for my hot rods.  Good work, quick.

Ya, if the tube has a bend in it, it can wipe it making it difficult to read properly.  Especially with clean oil.

For such an outstanding restoration I would have gone original color also.  Me, I wanna look like it was hotrodded!

Ya, definitely molten metal.  Could have been from the original pour?  Porous spot in the sand?

I think R model has higher reading oil pressure then a B?  It's okay after a few minutes of running but if you drive it while it's cold it will just peg it.

That glob looks like a chunk of weld?  Strange.

My 237 pegs my 80# gauge at start up.  Runs 60# mostly I remember.  Maybe 40 hot idle.

Like on my hot rods, we shim the pump relief a touch to get more pressure.  Throw a 1/8" washer in there to see if it helps?

Way back I'd buy the 100# spring for my motors.  I had to buy 200# gauge as it would got 150+# cold start!!  That is when we just shimmed stock spring to get 100#.

1 hour ago, tjc transport said:

are you talking about Back In Black Pulling  Larry?

he runs a slightly tweaked black V8 superliner.

No, not Albert.  It's a roundy round truck.

Ya, I eat leftovers til whenever( though they don't last long with me anyhow).  Only thing that does get pitched is sour milk.  Had a NEW gallon just last week that was sour when I opened it new(date was good for 1.5 weeks yet).  I won't waste the gas to go back to store and complain.  My guess is the whole shipment got warm and ruined so getting more from the shelf would be a moot point.  

Trucking company, truck was white?  Something like that.  Was quite a spectacular restoration.

The other one was black/red that was recabbed with a NOS cab.  Wanted good money for it.

On 2/3/2024 at 6:10 PM, JoeH said:

Slowing down and downshifting should be done in "steps". This isn't an automatic where it's one smooth constant slowdown.  Going downhill, I frequently use the brake to slow down close to idle RPM, then execute my downshift, then resume foot brake.

If you're finding yourself in situations where you need to have a foot on the brake while downshifting then you're waiting too long to even start slowing down. You're being too rammy. Relax, slow down, take your time. I just went through this training a new driver a year ago.

Kinda my take on it.  I find myself trying to drive to fast sometimes and having to downshift and brake at the same time.  Bad idea really.  Need to slow it down sooner, the Mack isn't my hotrod with synchronized transmission where you can just put it ina gear.  You do have to teach yourself to drive a bit further "down the road" and not so "last minute" like in a car.

I have a friend that road raced and was quite a heel/toe driver.  That is pretty much a race track thing, not a truck driving thing.

Oil pressure should be in top of filter housing.  Oil  temp?  Maybe in the pan would be my guess.  

Pressure should be mechanical with a copper line.  Not sure about temp?  Water temp is mechanical, so maybe oil is also?

If you here it "clunk", then maybe the contacts are crusty?  You can take the S/P switch apart and clean the contacts(two big washers).  I used to dismantle mine in a regular occasion back when I still have one.  I removed it the next summer and went 12v starter and alt.