Freightrain

Sorry to see this Dave.  Hope it goes to a good home.

Looks pretty solid.  I agree, in today's world $8k isn't bad.

My guess, she inherited it in some way and wants it gone.

6 hours ago, r8f1k said:

I'm game for just about any combo that is EASY to find parts and EASY to maintain.  Nothing worse than finding a project and all the parts to support it are like hens teeth.  In the last 25 years, I have done DOZENS of restorations.  Cars, tractors, soda machines, jukeboxes, pinball machines, vintage machining tools, antique farm implements, furniture, clocks, and on and on.......I'm a glutton for punishment.  

I was thinking it might be easier to buy a whole truck to swap parts off of, like a pre 1994 International with engine/transmission and axle.  Swap it all over to a Mack B61.  I would like a stick, but my wife may also want/need to drive it.  I kinda want to put a roll back on it to haul equipment rather than use a trailer, might also help with the ride.

Anyone know what is the limit for posts on this forum?  I got a notification that I had met the maximum amount of posts for the day.  Is that for new guys?

There was a fellow a few years back that bought a bus and used the whole driveline for his B.  Front/rear axles (hydro boost), motor/trans.  He did have to narrow the front axle to fit .  B's are pretty narrow.  All mechanical, no computer if you can find an old enough bus.  I'll try to find his build, there were tons of pictures.

Likely to keep spammers from doing mass posting all over the forum.

You have to have like 10 posts to add pictures?

Skid steers are around 7k lbs depending on version.  Moving my friends on his big tag trailer it pulled heavy, similar to my race trailer(14k lbs).

To get around some of the legal logistics, maybe a juice brake S series International chassis with a B cab put on?  That could get you under CDL issues and still pull okay.  Ex Uhaul chassis might be a cheap buy? 

Might want to get a mechanical Dt466 or 12v Cummins to get away from electronics on the engine.  I know someone with a S series pulling a race trailer.  It's governed to like 52 mph.  Dealership can't do anything for him.  It was a local Chemlawn truck, so never meant to go fast.

Most any B will be gear bound without changing the rear axle.  Most built to go 45-55 mph.  Mine originally would go 65 mph flat out, but many don't.

Most 2 spd rears aren't really fast either from my experience.  Marginal at best.  Finicky also with inexperienced operator.

Id say 330" overall just guesstimating.  Wheelbase plus one tire diameter, plus half the distance between duals, plus frame behind rear tire.    242+ 44+5+3=294+ what sticks in front of front axle. 30?". So maybe 324"?

On 12/2/2023 at 9:38 PM, Mean Green said:

The reason I changed to it my truck took forever to make oil pressure now I have it in a few seconds

I cleaned/polished my check valves in my full flow, it built pressure quickly a few times then back to 20-30 seconds.  That is why I changed mine to spin on.

Here's Jeff and his Federal with enertia starter.

Why have them separated?  Don't want a crossover line?  I'm not sure I'd want fuel just sitting around unused.  If you draw off both it will keep the fuel fresher.  My .02.

Here is my pyro/boost gauge

There are a couple variations to that block plate and likely gaskets to match.

I swapped my original 673 NA to spin on and had to get correct mount for "non turbo" motor.  A turbo version should be easier to find.

I used my motor manual book and reference what my block looked like once I removed the full flow plate like you have.

My 673 did not have oil cooler and that is another option.

The hell I went through getting block heater out of my 673 when I put spin on filters.  Geez what a mess that was.  Glad I got the new plug installed and didn't leak!  Heater won't fit behind spin on filter housing.

20 hours ago, 67RModel said:

I have noticed what your talking about when using a smart phone. Get on a real computer and the web pages are totally different and have all the information and user interface features you could ever need. The "mobile friendly" versions of just about any website is 100% worthless. I hate looking for anything with my phone. It is an absolute last resort option.

I won't use the mobile version if on my phone.  I know it limits things and usually makes it harder.  All else, I wait to get on computer at home/work.

I was waiting to see it go up like a volcano!  Lucky all around.

More and more people have less responsibility and will just flee to not get charged.  Or they have charges already and don't want to go to jail(again).

In Cleveland, it's been young teens stealing those Kias and such.  Cheap thrills I guess?

Welcome.

Seems I've seen that truck before in pictures.

47 minutes ago, Full Floater said:

Pyro.

Fuel pressure gauge is another informative gauge that gets overlooked.   Can really show a problem coming before you're stuck on the side of the road.

 

Few years back I was having power issues.  First it was the throttle lever had slipped on the shaft.  Fixed that but still was a bit sluggish.  I installed a fuel pressure gauge and hung it on the air cleaner so I could see it out the window and noticed it was low.  Installed a new lift pump and it was like new again.  The bad thing is, the pressure pulsates and you need a liquid filled gauge to steady it enough to read it.  I know they put them in the dash, but it would need to be electric or have an isolator as to not leak fuel if something went wrong.  I ran my external gauge for a few years and finally took it off.

On 11/16/2023 at 9:04 AM, Licensed to kill said:

And yet, after spending about an hour searching for that gauge with no luck, I showed the picture to my wife and in 5 minutes (literally) she found it. What REALLY baffled me is that she found it on a sight that I had been to and did not find it there. Unfortunately for me, turns out it is a 3" gauge and I need 2 -1/16" so as cool as it is, it doesn't fit my needs. That and it is $340USD which would be $466CAD plus shipping so about $500CAD so....that is a hard NOPE. 

That's why I put it where the ashtray used to be.  Wouldn't fit anyplace else.  I've seen old trucks with a pyro mounted to a piece of alum drilled to the dash.  Cobbled up, but typical for an old truck.  

I found it on Isspro website but can't recall where I actually ordered from.  Yes, it was very pricey, but gave me both gauges.

I know you want be purchasing it but will try to remember to get a picture of the install just for shitz and gigglez.

I eliminated my ash tray and installed an Isspro pyro/boost gauge.  Made a nice alum panel to mount it in the dash and cover up the edges of the ash tray hole.

Have to get a pic for you.

I have a pile of shirts, common gift from the GF.  She was upset after she had bought me one of everything and had to start looking elsewhere.  LOL!

I'm only 57.  40 didn't bother me, 50, 55 didn't bother me.  This one did for some reason.  I suppose work the last few years has beaten me up pretty bad and I'm in the Fuq it mode now?  I have been relieved of my boss duties so things are a bit easier on me.  Sleeping better, feeling better.  Time will tell.

Interesting thought.  

Two air starters or one of each(air-elec)?

Dual air starters will eat up some air for no real purpose.

If you run just an air starter and are hesitant, no worries.  Put good parts in the system and go.  Mine has been carefree for years. It will hold 100# for 6 months sitting in the garage.  None of the "dead overnight" woes.