Freightrain

What batteries are you running?  Four 6s or a couple 12v?  

Are they good?  Are the cables and ends good?  Is the starter good?

Id say RS685LST.  The first letter just kinda didn't get stamped fully.

Aren't the tags on the passenger door?

Raneys has some retro steering wheels available.  I've been contemplating getting one for my B.  Likely better then trying to restore my old wheel. Once the steel core starts to rust, it will distort again and crack.

White version:

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/20-ivory-retro-bone-3-spoke-steering-wheel/

I always thought single headlights was a fleet thing.  Cheaper on the order form and easier to keep just one headlight to fix any truck.  Not a high or low beam.  By then single rounds were out of style so that is why the went to square across the board??

If you ever try to flip a pitman arm around and install it upside down, it won't go on much, if at all.  The taper makes it impossible.

I will try to get under mine again and get a better look at arm on clutch pedal side.  I know there is a lot of monkey motion for these for what seems to be a simple thing.

16 hours ago, Macktruckman said:

I have most of it i took off mine. Message me if i can help. I wont need it anymore 

Josh

I don't really know what all is involved with it.  Will find out soon enough.

I can get better light so I can get a better picture.  Soon as I put my arm up with my phone, it blocked the light and you can't see anything.  I tried to just get a quick picture but there is no room to get in there AND see what it is.

I've seen him at Gerharts also.  Parked my rig next to his bus.

Working on it.  Haven't finalized it.

Most steering box splines have a slight taper to make the pitman arm fit tight.  It can't have any slop in the spline and like a tie rod end a taper makes it tight.

Well, I got under there, sorta.  It was my arm, a light, or the tape measure.....but not all three....LOL.

I got about 3 1/2" from center of roller to center of throw out shaft.

Ya, it's a tapered fit that hasn't been apart in 60+ yrs.  No doubt she's snug.....

Bumper or is it the grille shell sagging?

Just have to roll under on a creeper. No big deal.

On 1/12/2024 at 9:25 AM, Licensed to kill said:

Thanks Larry. 

Sorry, I forgot to look this weekend.  Bought the time I was heading to bed last night did I realize I forgot something!  I will get home tonight and get some pictures.

I used a slacker adjuster puller to get my pitman arm off when I installed the air steering.  I bought a few others that didn't have the beef to do it.  The right puller and a smack with a BFH and it fell off.

These steering box resemble one from Cub cadet.  Rebuilt one before,this just a bit larger!

My air steering is a bit flighty sometimes on curvy roads.  Like mentioned it is similar design.  Beats Armstrong steering!  I have a spare steering box for my truck come the day it might need help.

3 hours ago, Wirlybird said:

I had my meter on 2k setting which gives a tone as I couldn't see the meter while hanging over the fender to get to the terminals!
Also I was first trying to see if I had a dead short in the starter motor.

Ya, it will just show continuity with that meter.  If the big wires aren't smoking, then likely not dead shorted.  Either bad brushes, commutator or bad solenoid.  Start with the easy stuff first.

If daring enough, use a big fat insulated screwdriver and jump the two big terminals.  If the starter spins, then you know it's the solenoid.  If it just arcs, then bad motor.   Do at your own risk!  Just saying.  Doing this on a car starter is not a big deal, but a truck starter is a bit more juice.

4 minutes ago, Wirlybird said:

Yes, going to finish removing the strap and small wires to test and see if I can determine why I get continuity from the left post to ground with batteries unhooked.

You are getting continuity from the left post to ground because that is the power lead to the windings and they go to ground.  If you had the proper meter it would give a specific resistance reading for the windings.

I've never personally had that solenoid apart so I can't confirm or deny what you will get once you pop it apart.  I know the basics of what it should have to function.

I can look at mine this weekend.

Hopefully in the near future I will be upgrading mine to a 16713.  The old triplex is just whipped.

The red is the hot from the battery which connects to one side of the contacts inside.  The yellow is the lead into the windings of the motor.  The small wire is the coil to the solenoid which when powered pulls the contacts closed and connects the main power to the windings.

Sounds like the contacts are burnt in the solenoid, which would make the starter not run.  That is the flash you are seeing.  Or, the motor is bad(shorted) and the flash is the high current when applying power to the bad motor.

Removing the screws, there is a spring loaded plunger inside, so be careful that it doesn't pop apart and things fall out.

Yes the block side bolt is a PITA to get out.  Either a box wrench and just 1/16 turn at a time or swivel socket and get out enough to use a rachet.

Besides it weighs a ton to hold onto.  My B is a real bitch because it is a lower right side starter and it falls in your face if you don't get a hold of it.  Reinstalling is another WTF moment.

So see if I get this.

The turbo was on putting boost back into the oil drain tube, into the engine, this showing blowby.

Bad turbo seal was all it was then, correct?  Just a bit cheaper then head gaskets!