Freightrain

Ol Rob told me about how he used to do them.  I tried on one junk gauge and gave up.  Guess I was doing it wrong??

The extendable Studebaker is cool.  Seems there is a real one still running or on display somewhere?  Maybe I saw it at an ATHS convention?

Yup, 12v system, 24 start, POS. Grd.

Two 6 v on each side, wired into ser/par switch that mates then either 24 start or 12v running.  You could put one 12 each side and eliminate some cables and work fine.  6v batteries just had better capacity in those days.  As long as the s/p switch was kept in working order all was well.

I spent the first summer trying to get mine reliable.  Gave up and converted to 12v start, alternator and neg. ground.

Of course now I went off the reservation and put air start!!

That tach likely got a tight spot and tried spinning the needle around at a high rate of speed.  Thus it hit the pin and broke the needle off.

Very nice work on the rebuild in that speedo.  There is a technic to getting the bezel off and not destroying it.

Been about 4 yrs I've been fighting these pricks.  Poison doesn't work.  Even after a few years.  I finally stepped up my game with a scissor trap and got one today!!  I'm resetting it and will see if there are others.  They supposed use a big space but I am going to keep trying.

My yard turned into a plowed field it was so rough from their ruts and holes.  I want to level it next year and get back to being able to mow without throwing my back out.  Heck just walking can twist an ankle!

Tractor protection valve.  Uses TP1 on the dash to activate (if I recall correctly).

The one on my B was only available as a rebuild.  Had a buddy give me one out of his parts supply bin.

Friend has lawn care business and tells me about fertilizer costs the last couple years.

On 10/4/2023 at 2:01 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

Interesting, I had not run across that before. Motor coaches sometimes had "buttons" on the floor exactly like high beam/ low beam switch but one for left turn on for right.

Most any of the typical transit busses had floor mounted turn signals.  That way you could keep both hands on the wheels and you didn't have to worry if you turned them off.  This was back in the 70-80s.

I remember when Rob bought his ol RL water wagon.  It had a V8 also, but was a few years newer.

65* this morning.  Nice.  Gunno go to hell tomorrow and through next week.  45 high and rain.  Yuk.

Time to bypass everything and use jumper cables from a battery to the starter.  That would eliminate all connections.

Sounds like starter is cooked if all you did was replace the battery.  Is it supposed to be 6 volt?

I always loved my 2000 Ford 7.3 Power stroke with a straight pipe.  It sounded like a baby E9.

I liked running with my rear slider window open as I pulled hills with my race trailer.

I remember popping a couple studs on my 673.  I looked on ARP website to see if they had anything possible.  I did find a couple originals in my part boxes so never looked further.

My 2000 F350 PSD, 6 spd, 4.10 gear would run up Fancy Gap with my trailer at 65 mph just barely holding the throttle in 6th gear.  That 7.3 was only 235 hp.  I would wonder if my 237 Mack would do the same today?   I know the ol 673 would surely not do it.  I'm only at 28K lbs GCW.

I've more then once wished my 237 had just a "bit" more power on some hills.  It's no slouch on flat land, but start out on a grade and it just creeps along.  I'm just glad I found the 237 a few years back.   Of course a 300 would really make me smile!

It is variable speed but with no gunk and new air lines if you crank the knob to the right it really flies now.  Before it barely made a full swipe as it hesitated a long trying to fight through the stiff crap jamming everything.

I think a picture of the engine will help.

^^^ This is true in a LOT of things today.  Too many products come and go so fast that if you don't buy what you need the first time, they aren't around 6 months from now to buy again.

Even after 22 yrs,  I  never pull both sticks in neutral until I'm stopped.  I try to get in the gear I need before going around a corner, but if not, leave the compound in a gear, and get the main out and ready to pull back into a lower gear.   You're "suppose" to have it in a gear going around the corner( don't coast more then a truck length I think is the rule), but we all know that doesn't always happen in the real world.  If you downshift the compound down to underdrive by the time you get to the corner, the main will be easy to shift down as  you will be in a low rpm and plenty of room to get it up 1000 rpm to get in a lower gear.  You will find you can't "rush" driving these transmissions.  It is not like a car where you can just put it in any gear at any time.  You do have to look ahead and make a shifting plan.

Even when I'm stopping for a light, I will goose the throttle to get the main in neutral but I'll leave the compound in gear until I'm stopped.  That way I can blip the throttle to get the main back in to move again if the light changes suddenly.  I rarely use the clutch unless starting out.  I work the throttle to unload the transmission to shift up/down.  Every gear has a road speed and you have to remember what each one is.  That will make it easier to put it in the correct gear at the right time.  It took me the WHOLE first summer just to get good enough to drive around town without grinding it to pieces.

Looks like your havin' a ball Bob!

Baby steps.  I remember when I stretched my truck and did the bunk.  It seemed like I would never get it done.  6 months and presto!  

Depends on intake.  Single was 170?  Split twin was 187?  Seems that is what I remember.  My 673 was a split.