Freightrain

1 hour ago, Mark T said:

Are they tubeless ? 

Yes.  Yokohama's.

I know any tire is a crap shoot.  Today even worse then 20 yrs ago.

The 3 yr old tires on my pickup were already showing signs of cracking around the bead area.  Luckily they were near replacing anyhow.  Granted the Mack stays inside 99% of its life.

I'm waiting on my buddy to price them.  Wholesale and local pickup.

Biggest scare is what it might do to the nose of my race trailer if it comes apart really bad.

2 hours ago, HarryS said:

Larry, I hear you. I'm looking to go from bias to radial. The ones I have now (Firestone bias/tubes) date back to the early 90s. Look good, hardly any wear, no cracks or dry rot. Prices I have seen are from $400s all the way up to $700. Of course I need wheels, etc too.

I was $200- tire, $50 painted used rim back in 2001.  $1600 for all six mounted up when I bought the truck and changed to radial.

Double that for only 4 tires.  Geez o pete.

So, my drives are 22 yrs old now!  Ya, new back in 2001 when I swapped the truck to radials.  I put new steers on it again 9 yrs ago, just because.  Ive let the drives go since there are 4 and less chance of crashing if I would loose one at 65 mph.

I just checked my local shop(where I got them last time), $650/ea and near $3k mounted and all the fees.  Yowza!!  They were just $200 each back then.

They have no age cracks, still look brand new but I've been getting a bit leary on loosing one more every year.

I was going to have my buddy price 4 and get them wholesale, but then I have to swap them myself.  Surely have to buy one of those fancy tire tools they offer because my back won't survive doing them with just spoons(I do car tires with spoons and it kills me). Likely save $1500 doing it myself?  Ugh, have to make up my mind.

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Still awesome!!  Is it ok if I copy you?

Be my guest

The two front legs are wide,so the rear didn't need to be so wide.  It was stable.

My initial intent was to be able to drop the pan if need be.  I didn't have to, luckily.

On 4/19/2023 at 6:22 PM, Joey Mack said:

I have a 673 in my shop..  I had to change the pistons when I added a turbo..  So END-to an- ENDT...  I am not an E-6 Guru..  I just did some reading and asked a few people about the change over..  My new head gaskets have fire rings.  I wish I knew a lot more about these engines..  and when I finish this one, I will have to make a jig to mount it in, so I can start it up.  Thats going to be an effort.. 

When I wanted to start my 237, I took some square tubing and welded plates to them to bolt to the front corners of the block, then a made similar stand for the lower two bolts of the bellhousing(allowed me to install flywheel).  Worked great.

You can see them in this video I made after I first started it up after having to pull the heads to get the mud daubers out of two cylinders.

Ya, I wondered what happened the other day when it came up "lost"!  The new server crossed my mind.

Hoped Eddy didn't forget to pay the bills!

Sorry, was late to the party Bob.

Hope it was a swingin good time!

Plenty of guys put turbos on early 673s.  I don't think they do much beyond cleaning up the smoke a touch.  I'm curious as to the stock 673T for boost?  5-10#?  My 237 has 15#(love to have 20#).

I remember going through the same thoughts for my NA 673 20 yrs ago.  Glad I found a 237.  I didn't want the chance of hurting my good running 673.

Ohio DMV is actually a private run business that just does the work for the state.  They have no real legal authority,  they just interpret the laws as they see them.  So they are not a person to ask for any legal questions.

Sadly you get them same run around if you call the state offices.  It's all gray area.  I was trying different avenues after I bought my truck back in 2001.  I ended up getting my CDL just so Barney Fife can't harrass me.

37 minutes ago, 67RModel said:

Sorry about the passing of Glenn. There is another fellow on here with the username "theakerstwo" also from Oklahoma I think. Any relation I wonder? 

That was Glenn.

Good luck with your project.

I put air start on my truck a few years back.  I used a tank mounted air operated valve.  Works flawless and will hold air for 7 months.  That old steam valve will be troublesome and likely leak air out overnight.

I also installed an oiler inline with the starter.  Takes some fuel from return line and shoots it in the starter to keep it lubed.  Works well.

You may want to pull cover from injection pump and make sure plungers go up/down.  When I got the 237 for my truck, two were stuck.  PB and a screwdriver got them moving.

https://youtu.be/FEG3vjqI6fk

Welcome to BMT and thank you for sharing the information about Glenn.

My condolences to you and your family.

16 hours ago, fjh said:

I agree with what yo see there you need to get that out of there to get the clutch set right!

If 2 are good....4 has to be GREAT!!  Lol.

Just saw on JOT that Glenn just passed.  So sorry to hear this.  He was always a big contributor to this forum and his knowledge and input will be missed.

RIP Glenn

I keep a Power Service jug in the bunk and add to the tank at every fill up.  Help?  At least it's better then nothing.

Or test light the wire to each.

As long as the main body is sound I can't believe the u joint itself isn't still available.

Tires..... they ain't what they used to be.  You used to be able to wear them out long before they dry rotted.  Now, 3-4 yrs and the sidewalls start to look bad.  They cut corners by removing the UV protection.  They save money AND make money by selling more tires.  Win+Win.

My black car has tires from 1997 on it.  Still look good but sits in a dark garage.  The Mack has drive tires from 2001 on it.  Again look fine because it sits in the garage.  I do want to replace the drives just because I don't want to loose one some night in the middle of nowhere.  I put steers on it about 5 yrs ago just because of age(from 2001also).

My .02 on the plow frame:

It would have had to rack the frame rails to shear the transmission mount bolts.  Not impossible but I would think there would be more issues now(alignment, tracking, etc).

I can't remember what mine looked like before I stretched the truck.  It might have just been a piece of angle bolted ton the crossmember behind the cab.

If the transmission moved far enough to shear the bolts, I'd say the fan would have hit the radiator.  The front engine mount would have damage/broke?

The hit doesn't look bad enough to throw the engine and transmission out of place.  

Sorry,  my .02 is the previous work on the transmission was the root cause of the bolt failures.