Freightrain

I'm not overly worried about a deep low. Like my deep under 6041 just for the slow truck race. Beyond that I don't "need" it. I know I am dealing odd pieces and trying to get something that works well together. Decent splits and something like the double OD I have using my Triplex and 6041. Gets me 65 mph at 1500ish. Much quieter then 1800! I don't like lugging it much with that 6041 and the 300 will be harder on it. I wouldn't kick a 18 to the curb if I found one reasonable, even it it means paying full core for it? If there is a DO version that would be a plus. I have the Eaton chart saved, need to look around. I need at least a single OD, period. I will remove the 6041no matter. As for clutch housing, Geoff and I were already poking around at those before I rebuilt the Triplex. Using the Triplex? I could, but I don't want to have to "baby it". If I feel the need to let it rip, I want a transmission that will not flinch. Just a note, I purchased a new $10k transmission for my race car. It is the top of the line, badass, never have to worry kind of transmission. I have no problem with doing that for the Mack. I only want to do this once. Thanks for all the input guys. It will come together somehow.

I want to cruise at 14-1500 rpm @ 65 mph. Not 1800 I am now. Those 3.55s or a double OD like I basically have using that 6041 box. I'm not worried about going fast, just fast enough without all the noise.

My initial thought is NO. Everyone says to but I don't want to worry about something going wrong. These transmissions arent on every block anymore. My next thought is get rid of the 4.10s for a set of 3.55s if I can find a set for a Rockwell. Then I can run a 13 spd. If changing rear gears becomes a hassle, I want a true double over 13. Not a homemade version. I want more road speed at lower rpm(noise level). I will be removing the little 6041 box I have hanging in there. Much to fragile.(I'm a gearhead, I want something I don't have to drive like I have an egg under my foot). I had thought of using the 5 spd that came with engine and find a 1241 and use it for splits, plus if I get a 1241C it has deep under like my 6041. Lots of "maybes" and "ifs".

The 237 is a huge upgrade from the 673. Can't wait to see it with new motor! I found out last winter that my throttle was not quite wide open at WOT. I adjusted the arm just a touch and WOW what a difference. It really pulls the hills now. It was good but that last little touch of fuel made a big difference in keeping speed with my trailer on steeper hills. Always had to drop a gear, now I can almost not have to. Can't imagine another 100hp?

Ok, it makes sense. It uses an adjustable rocker cup to apply extra lift to open the valve instead of a Jake housing. Normal setting it has lash, once pressure applies it pushes rocker further opening the valve. Kinda ingenious actually.

I've run valves, so I understand the procedure. On my hot rods, I always do one cyl at a time. They have cheat sheets on how to do multiple cylinders at a time but I never do it that way. Ever. Even after getting grief for it. "Oh, you're taking too long". Whatever. This having so much lash surprised me. Why does it require so much for a "dynatard" cam? What is special about it? I'm just glad it isn't a cam lobe problem. I did the valves on my 237 and the Jakes without issues. I know Jakes are different but I followed the sequence and they work fine. I want to transfer the Jakes over to this engine, if possible.

Will do. Not my first motor rodeo. Been doing hot rod stuff for nearly 40 yrs.

I have the three pieces but they are all assembled and no easy way to measure the ball size.

Have to wait to get engine on legs, as it is just sitting on a few pieces of wood. Any big bar will have it laying on its side, on the floor! 😨 I remember the 673 was like 150#? when I replaced a few broke studs years back. At least that is what I pulled it to because that was all my torque wrench would go.

No engine brake(dynatard) that I'm aware of. I would assume, like a gas engine, that even at TDC there should only be max clearance(.020?). Not +.150. all the rest that I could check without rotating it, were pretty close to .020 sumthin. Going by "feel". It's coming apart, so I will make sure things are okay. Could just be lack of maintenance.

It has started. Will take time, not sure how fast it will happen. I have legs made up to get it off the floor and I can drop the pan. Local guy has std pan that he will trade for my ESI pan(that won't fit my chassis). Found a couple loose exhaust rockers(like more then 1/8" lash)hope that isn't a cam failure! Didn't make any bad noises while running and had 70# oil pressure. Will investigate that further. My 3/4" IR won't break the head bolts loose, but was using adapter for 1/2" socket. Need to buy a good 3/4" socket and see if that improves the performance. Should have some updates next week?

That orange B is my second best B. The marron one from Bisom is my first.

I'm pretty sure I have the parts still. I will check on it either tonight or tomorrow. Sorry for the delay, I got locked out of BMT and Barry had to reset my password.

Ok ..Barry hooked me up! I'm back as my old self.

Gotta love that back drop manifold.....

Sad to see it get scrapped. Wish I was 2000 miles closer.

Sounds good! Speaking of batteries in series, cut open a 9 volt battery and find all the little batteries inside making up the 9 volts.

Didn't someone steal a mixer in like the second Beverly Hills cop??

Another Steven Segal flick. DM chasing that ol Chevy pickup and he couldn't get away....lol. Fire Down Below.

I need to uncover it and look at it again. I know both are bottom mounted, but there is something different about their operation. I think one was reversible?

The old boxes have that shuttle pump also. I cleaned mine up in my Triplex. There was an eccentric in the front bearing retainer. It was fed oil from the cup cast in the passenger side of the main case, fed through a hole into input area and then down the main shaft to oil the gear bushings all the way into the compound. My 107 has two PTOs mounted on it. One is different then the other?

My sister has a white convert, 5.0 6 spd. She's a gear head.

Ya, those turbo Regals were quick for their day. The Grand National was top, then there were a few other variants(Regal T type) that weren't as flashy as a GN but same motor. That 3.8 was a weird one. The crank journals were all offset(rods didn't share a journal). Wondered how that thing stayed together with power they made. Mom had a 76 Century with 3.8 and it was a dead slug. Gutless beyond any belief. It would run 65 on the highway but if you leaned into it and it downshifted, it started slowing down and made a whole lot of fan noise. How they turned them around in 20 yrs. My 390 makes near 700 HP with 7# of boost. It will be a handful to drive if you don't pay attention.

With the crab cap you can still get the cap off with the blower on it. The spacer under the blower gives a bit of room. You can buy an offset distributor for $1k but this way works just fine.

Crack the whip Paul!!! 😆 I'm working on getting the motor back in my hot rod. Been a year and a half and trying to locate bolts and pieces that have been packed away. Plus all the changes I need to make to fuel system. It is taking way too long and my motivation is lacking. I have trans all hooked up, driveshaft,shifter. Now onto the new headers and hook exhaust up. Different headers so nothing will just bolt up. Then get blower stuck back on...... Radiator back in and maybe fire it up. Hijack!! Sorry, back to regularly scheduled program.....