Freightrain

You are retired AND the truck is in a garage. What's the hold up..... 😆

How much more weight was typically put in the front trailer? 20k/18k or 24k/14k for 38k total. That was a good looking U. Tall rubber also. Was that usual?

Well, took a run Saturday and every seems well. Heater core popped in my 95 f150 so needed to tear into it Saturday morning, so I used the B for a parts run and go to lunch with friends. Ran through town and then onto the highway to go to lunch. All I can say is "Nice". No noise, no rattle, no buzzing of the shifter handles which mandated I keep a hand on the compound while on the highway. It stays in gear on decel, with Jake on. Once I got parked at lunch and let it idle,....no more knocking and clanking. I don't know how to act 😆. I need to roll under and check for any leaks. There were none on the garage floor after sitting there for a few weeks. Life is good.

I have heard conflicting results on a stock organic clutch and a 237 torque. I decided to step it up a notch. Overkill for me? Likely but I have been doing stick shift stuff for a lot of years and I tend to like to build in a safety net.

There should be a major hot wire at the S/P switch that feeds the dash area. I had converted mine to 12v start and I installed a solenoid where the S/P was and I attached that feed to it as a junction.

Mine is very smooth overall. I don't have to ride it to get the truck moving so it doesn't get hot/aggressive/chatter. A similar clutch in my hot rod will chatter horribly but in a car you don't have the gearing as in a truck so it heats up quickly and will get tough to drive smoothly. The first few stop/starts is okay, then it gets chattery. I've wanted to do my own maintenance on my race clutch but don't have the proper rivets or rivet sets to install them. I have a sponsor for our group that does all the NHRA big boys so it is simple for him and just a couple hundred dollars to have him completely service it. I only do it every few years so it is not a big expense.

Yes, see my posted picture above and compare to other pictures that Heinz posted of a stock clutch.

Seeing you want a useable truck, swap the rears the easiest way for you. If you don't mind lengthening the truck, find some rails with good rears and slip it over and bolt it. That is what I did with my B. 1991 Ford rails worked perfect, they were an inch taller but width wise was a perfect slip onto my original rails. I bolted it on over a 5ft overlap and stretched the truck 5 ft(using the whole 10ft of rails I got).

Had to go back and look at the picture. Interesting to see a wide nose on a B67 for sure.

I put the NOS doors on my B. Had them painted all pretty, along with door panels with glass. Only problem is you have to drag and jam those panels on and it rips the paint up on the doors. Ugh. I tried tape but it only helped a tiny bit. Still bare metal spots 🤦🤦🤦

Nice truck. Welcome aboard. Seems most Macks back in the day had contrasting paint on the frame. Looks good.

They switched mine to metallic because of the 237, I didn't want it to slip. It is smooth as silk. It was very inexpensive and only took a couple days.

Try calling these folks. They helped me. https://dwclutch.wpcomstaging.com/

Well done!!

I had a conversation with a Schaefer representative. He recommended their 239S, 50w lube. The original GL1 is no longer around. $165 for a 5 gal pail. It is what I put in my rebuild. These transmissions due have brass bushings on each gear. Previously I did use 75w-90 or 85w-140 from AutoZone.

How cool is that!

Fantastic!!

Single or dual disc? My Triplex was 2" input, so that sounds correct. I don't remember diameter? 14-15"? I had mine rebuilt at DW Clutch in Maryland.

Look good!! Baby steps.....

Well, it runs. I through a couple batteries on it and thought I might just crank for some oil pressure. Nope, it fired up IMMEDIATELY!! Nothing but some fuel in the filter, no lines hooked up. Scared the hell out of me. I have since removed the broke brass fitting from pump so I could hook up some fuel. The primer is just and wouldn't prime it back up. Plus the check valve was missing from below it. I borrowed parts off the 237, primed it and lit it off. Runs fine, not any smoke from valve cover. Once I get some water into it, I will run it longer. I may not have to rebuild it?? I measured the pressure from breather and it was 1# using a pressure checker. I don't know what is acceptable or normal? I have like a 10 second video on my phone but will get something more later.

Somehow, in Wally world.... I believe it! People today.....🤦

Car transmissions are easy. You can carry them around.... 😆. I can do a Ford Toploader in my sleep.

Thanks. I just kept picking away at it. Imagine if I had a clue what I was doing???

Sounds plausible. Can't believe one of them was a through hole? Kinda dumb. Though the two holes for the "filter cover"(that oil trough/magnet) are through on the passenger side. I'm not sure I used any RTV on the threads? One is just damp but not a serious issue. I may just clean that area and apply a dab of RTV on the surface(threads just below the surface) and hope for the best.

It's mobile again .... Needs a really good bath, but it runs fine. Shifting was a bit tough at first, then it warmed up and shifts better. It was always a bit snug when first out but the compound was really stiff. Seems much better after 1/2 hr of driving. It's quiet and handles don't wander around anymore. My Jake switch is outta whack since I had removed the clutch pedal. I need to get under there and line it back up. It will work once, then not again. Simple fix.