Freightrain

Good to see your still kickn!

Ken, pretty sure that is where I got mine back in 2003? I'll get a picture this weekend.

Unhook the alt so it doesn't work. Then swap battery leads and start it. If everything works fine, get the alt switched and bolt it back on. No harm, no foul.

I still have the stock muffler and guard and pipe laying behind the garage. I'll see this weekend if it has round holes. I bought it new, but only ran that set up for about a year and took it off. It needs a good home, I'll see if it is not rusted up(think it was stainless).

Jumping 30 and 87 just bypasses the relay function. Thus the "flash to pass" will not work as I'm sure that just cuts power to the relay coil to turn the light off. If the relay is getting power to 30 and 85, then I would guess the GROUND side is what is not connected. I can't see the pictures well enough to decifer, but does the 'flash" button interrupt the ground?(I guess 86 pin goes to the flash switch?) Or, is pin 12 actually reading the other side of the relay coil(basically the ground side). I would guess the headlight(or marker light) switch turns the lights on, then the "flash" button just interrupts it. If you pull the relay, "85" has power? Then "86" should be ground. Flipping the "flash" button should interrupt that ground.

Ohh, I know ALL about townships and zoning. Been there, 11 yrs ago. Have Mike dig up that picture of him in a suit going to court about his fight with them! It's all about POWER and MONEY. About 4 yrs ago, I was riding with someone that got a speeding ticket in Indiana. The bottom of the ticket basically said......."if you give us an extra $50, we'll forget to tell anyone about this". (meaning it won't go on your record). Naaaa, it ain't about the money. Ha.

Went through all the hoops for my 4 wheeler for Auburn only to not be asked to show it. Ugh.

Oh, I see Hat.......with a name like "Rachael" she has to be hot? Dont worry, she is.

Ugh. Like I usually say..........."a good day at the races is when it makes it back to the trailer under its own power".

I have a buddies little electic upright power washer. Does okay, but dies after a short time and you have to let it cool and refresh itself. Good for maybe a few pieces of lawn furniture at best. Neighbor has a small gas powered version, seems to do okay for what he cleans up. I've really wanted a hot water version to really clean things up on the Mack. We have a big blue steam jenny at work , but the pump is about shot and it barely drizzles water out anymore. Been trying to get it fixed so I can use it the shop can clean stuff up. I still just use water hose and car wash soap to generally clean it. I have one of those self wringing(folding) mops I use on the trailer. Makes short work of it. 2 x 40ft is a LOT of surface to clean.

Call my agent in Canton. Rachael Chandler Head (330) 477-8529 4422 22nd St Nw Canton, OH Tell them Larry Kortkamp told you to call about insurance on a historical truck. This is not my first referral about this. Have a friend in Findley, Ohio that called her because his local SF agent wouldn't deal with him.

I have State Farm for my truck. Try your local agent. Was through Smithville this morning on my way to Wooster Brush. I work in Barberton.

Thanks Harry. I'm still "in limbo" right now. Hobert, ya "Pro" class(or called "Mod" in IHRA). Basically your no electronics bracket class. Sometimes called "Footbrake". How cornfuzing is that!!! Just to make it interesting, "Super Pro" or "Top" is the electronic class where you can have devices in your car to help make it more consistent. Typically your dragsters and fast cars all run this kind of class. Throttle stops to control your speed and delay boxes to control your reaction time. Now you can dazzle your friends and family with drag racing terminology.

I'll play it by ear. If it stays sunny, then I won't worry about the wash. Not that you can tell when mine is clean or dirty. I have my own hose/sprayer, I'll grab a bucket out of the garage too. Not sure it is worth $65.50 to pay someone to wash it?? Not after fuel and show costs.

Not sure how Mike did it, but many of the guys start in HI range and just go as quick as it can. Anything in the 80's is pretty respectable for MPH. Some of the "fast" trucks do it in the hi 13's ET wise, That's get'n it in a big truck.

Beats the heck out of mine..............at a SMOLDERING........................................................................49 mph.

Shouldn't be too hard to come up with backing plates to convert over. The pins/cams/chambers are all readily available new over the counter.

I have plans to be there. No real schedule set in stone. I haven't even told the boss about it yet, it kinda is a PITA as it is the end of the month and that is my busy time here at work. I'll get it off, but there will be lots of groaning. "IF" I take Wednesday off, I'll be there late Wed, sometime(about 7+ hr drive). If not, it will be Thurs afternoon/evening. I haven't pre-registered, so I'll be waiting in line for that. I'll be staying in the trailer, on the showgrounds.

.............if you order yours today you get a FREE jar of........... For those tough jobs!!!!

Yup, first time I pulled the B model couple years back..................oh ya, it's another money pit of a hobby I could get hooked on. Even with the complete lack of power I got....it was still fun. Best part is when it gets to the "grunt" part of the track. Pulling down the rpm and work'n. Need to get thos vids over to Youtube so you can post them for everyone to see.

Will it do 8 tracks also? I have a bunch that I don't have time to rewind so I can listen to them.

You speaking of these: Don't know who made them or if they are available.

Where is this? If they were as nice as they seem, they would be good to start with. Pricing and shipping is the real issue.

I bought mine new from Barry years back. Stock appearing. $45.00 http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_71&product_id=178 Don't know how different they are from "original" ones?

Wow...turned out great!