Freightrain

Thanks Jim, I play hell sometimes trying to find my old posts. I gave up on it. Strange I thought it was longer then basically a year ago? BillyT, I held off for a few years til I found a unit that was cost effective. Most of the Vintage air stuff is pretty pricey once you get everything you need. I had contemplated putting a heat/air unit, but my heater is all rebuilt and didn't really want to get rid of it if I didn't have to. Again, pricing all played a part. When someone online somewhere posted a link to this place in Texas I jumped on it. Super people to deal with, though like I said the kit I bought is not longer listed.

Been there. I got my from Retroair.com. It was only $650? They don't offer the same kit anymore and looks like prices are higher now. Fit great, works great. It will freeze you out of the cab. I'm trying to find the link to my install a couple years ago. Here are a couple pictures. Condenser mounted under the bunk with a fan on it.

They need to have an automatic buzzer, like train engineers, that they have to hit every minute or so to keep them "aware" of their surroundings. If you want to ride the highways and NOT drive..........take a bus. Oh wait, they crash too?

Ya, you got the correct ones. It's all rocket science to me too. It has to do with engine rpm and throttle position and that determines how much fuel it allows. It is a real Rube Goldberg kinda thing and I'm not really sure myself. Lord knows the new ones are likely much worse. Some how they work?

I would stay small. I put a 20 circuit in that Willys. WAYYY overkill, but it was already in the car when I started on it. Most kits handle the typical operating systems and I doubt you need more then 10-12 circuits. Heck you have air wipers, so that leaves one out already. Either way, put the headlights on relays(doubt most kits are set up this way--it wasn't in Willys). I took the lo/hi wires and ran them to two relays under the dash and used them to turn them on/off. Then used good heavy wire to the headlights. On my B, I put the relays on the front core support right next to the wire terminals. Even with my std halogen bulbs it would overheat the original headlight switch and make them blink if I turned on the brights. Using the relays I can run my brights without issue.

Very cool find. The ol dog sure looks like it has hard a very hard life since new. But, what construction equipment hasn't? Other then Tom(OT), I can't say I've seen many mixer trucks in running condition at least at any shows I've been to.` The only BIG B I always remember is that red/silver wrecker from NY area(saw it at Syracuse in '03). That thing was HUGE! and very well restored.

I would say as long as the tapers are the same and you can get the right length bar, use it. I wonder if there is anything you could change out(like steering arm on the spindle) to get 517 ends to fit?

Likely west coast logging companies using lightweight alum trucks for hauling logs out of the woods. Well, ya, it is going to fail with the brittle aluminum they had back then. Those cast aluminum brackets and such.

I run a Unilite module(so many hate those too) in the race car with 6AL. When I dynoed this last motor(first time ever for me) we had ignition issues and the shop was jabbing me about that Unilite module so I bought a new one and it still messed up. They gave me more grief. OH, come to find out it was the dyno wiring!!! Seems a weatherpack plug was "loose" and causing all the problems. Never got any reprieve for the unilite though. Everything else has points in it! LOL!!

I saw that on TODAY this morning. I guess that is natural selection? If you are crazy(dumb) enough to rely on your car to keep you safe(ie: drive for you) then you get what you get. I'm sorry for the family and friends, but I don't care I am just smart enough to NOT rely on my car to drive, yet. Reminds me of the stories from way back, someone driving a camper, put it on cruise control and got up to use the bathroom and crash. Yup, here's your sign.

Hmmm, interesting Paul. Never had one or installed one before so I'm out in left field on that. Just know what I have heard, but I know how that goes. I wonder why the module fails with a reduced input voltage? You would think it would be the other way around? I've wanted to get a boost retard MSD for my blower car, but just don't want to spend the money! For what little driving I do with it anymore and the fact I don't really beat on it as I don't want to find out what those 1968 cast pistons are made of!

Had to laugh when the V8 died and they found out the updated ignition failed(likely a Pertronix?). People give me grief when they find out my blown 390 still runs a stock, 1964 single point distributor. Goes to 6K rpm without issue. I've wanted to upgrade the ignition but have seen enough of those conversion fail that I figure just leave the points in it. Oh, someday I upgrade it to something. Local family of boys live/breathe AMC(don't ever call it "almost a chevy" in their presence). Their gremlin does go in the 8's with a super built 401 sumthin or other and a dash of N2O. Street car. It can't weigh more then an empty can of tomato soup. I know how flimsy those cars are.

Just went through this with a couple local friends lately. Both turned a few flats on the nut and were pleasantly surprised with the increase.

Yup. Still waiting for some time to make my own. Ya, right after I get the bunk fixed...LOL!!!

Can't recall exactly how many flats I turned it but started with a couple, then thought if that is good a couple more won't hurt. Not sure if it ended up 1 full turn or what. It ran well, bob-tailing it would run away from traffic starting at a light. You can hear the snap when you crack the throttle. Once I turned it back down you could hear the "laziness" in the throttle. It was not like adding 100 hp, but it surely helps when pulling a load. Even the 1/2 turn will be noticeable. Ugh, pulling a gooseneck with a gasser. Pure torture(to the wallet). I haven't done that since 1996 with my new F350/460ci. 7 mpg pulling my race trailer. The 2000 PSD got 11 mpg. The "new" 237 gets 9 mpg.

Ugh, sounds like quite a trip. Glad you made it back home okay. Let me tell you about hydroplaning with good tires. Ugh, if you recall my incident last year going to York. Pucker factor: 100.

Jeezus............rub your belly and tap your head and PRESTO it is in Reverse. WTH???? Why do they make it SOOOOOOOOOOOO freak'n complicated. Does Rube Goldberg work there? Their fix: Dealers will be able to load the software into the vehicles, and it will automatically shift the cars into park if the driver's door opens while the engine is running. Have you EVER had to hold a door open to aide in parking or backing up to something? Guess that is out of the question now. Thanks.

Ya, back then I was "racing" it when the diesel drags came to town. Shortly after diesel went to $4/gal and getting 4 mpg wasn't cut'n it! I rolled the power back and got 8 mpg and just put up with the drop in power. I'm sure after it was turned up it went from 187 hp to 190 hp(at least). LOL!!

^^^I read a story about Bob Chandler and Bigfoot. Anyone remember the movie "Take this job and shove it"? They used Bigfoot in many scenes. The director had them basically destroying the truck. That is until Bob basically told them "NO" and demanded he wanted control over who drove it and what they did with it. The ending scene where it goes through the guard shack? Yup, that was Bob driving it(with beard shaved off because actor Robert Hays didn't have beard).

Yup, the two nuts hold the arm that controls fuel. Moving one then tighten the other back up against arm. I really cranked mine up about 14 yrs ago. Ran really well, got HORRIBLE mileage. I turned it back down and doubled the mileage(back to 8 mpg).

I have a couple others but never got them downloaded.

Unlike a typical car/pickup tie rod end, they use different thread pitches to allow lengthening/shortening the rod by just twisting it. Unlike a car where they are left and right handed. Strange, but it works. I went through this about 5 yrs ago with my truck. Lucky mine are still available, but it is the larger 517 axle.

Ya, I had ear plugs in the truck 14 yr ago. Sadly the noise was worse with the stock muffler on it. It would just drone you to death on the highway. I'm just glad I got the Dynamat put on the firewall, that help tremendously. That and the turbo taking the bark out of the exhaust. It was always louder with the windows down, but not anymore. The guys I see with those big 8" pipes just roaring down the highway....Ugh, ya that is just too much bellow for me. I like to hear it, but not like that. My 4" pipes are just perfect.

Sure it is cleaner air overall, but I agree with the volume being drawn by the engine I bet it is quite the vacuum inside that air intake tube. Here is a little inside video from the dinner cruise during out show last weekend. Using my sound meter I get a steady 92 db inside the cab with either the windows open or closed. Quite a bit lower then the old motor. I'm pretty sure it was over 100+ db and really bad with the windows down.

My return spring was missing on my throw out arm when I pulled mine apart. I did some measuring and came up with a spring at the local hardware just like the ones for the hood latches. Maybe not the perfect one, but by golly it was better then the complete lack of one. It was actually starting to wear on the TOB levers from the bearing just rattling on against the cast fingers for the last 50 yrs? This is the one inside the bellhousing that pulls the bearing tight against the arm. The latches actually do have a small oil hole in the top end. I think that is where I squirted oil years ago since I didn't have to take them off to pour it with the latch upside down. Though too much oil/grease and it will run down the fender when it gets hot outside.