thomastractorsvc

they should just give to somebody that will restore it, great piece of history. Let the owner know my terms and I will do it!

My neighbor told me a story about a guy at his old work that used a torpedo heater to warm up the radiator on a loader and melted the AC condenser and some of the fins of the radiator had it sitting on the counter balance weights pushed up against the grill. When he was asked why he did that he stated that he saw the mechanic use it under the truck to help with starting so since the loader did not have under the engine access had a hydro and fuel tanks with skid plate he thought heating through the radiator would be ok but the only place to set it so it did not fall off was up tight. Up in Northern Maine when I was a kid used to have hoses plumbed into the pick up and hoses on machine and would be able to circulate coolant through the skidder, loader or tractor and had welding cable for jumper cables if needed about 15 minutes on the hoses and the equipment usually started, used to have the old card board grill bra!

kinda, he was wanting a few snap shots, so in my infinite wisdom I figured I would post the the ones I text-ed in case they were too small.

http://youtu.be/xzXTrveO1qE

Was getting some pictures and video of the old girl today.

no not like those goes.

I would like it just for the engine, would like to put a 2 stroke DD in a rat rod or older truck build on a 1.5 ton frame.

from reading what is going on I am curious as to what is going on. Is the truck turning over, just slowly and not starting? If that is the case, charge the battery's or jump start after you plug it in for a couple hours. If you cant plug it in or don't think the block heater works take a torpedo heater or space heater and slide it up underneath to warm the engine just make sure it wont burn anything or start a fire. I have a small 35000 propane torpedo heater that works good for warming cold starting engines. I paid about $80 for it 14 years ago, I also have a tarp that I can drape over an engine to keep heat in, but if the truck had snow around it I would keep the hood closed and place under the bumper pointed towards the oil pan, just make sure that it wont burn or melt something. After about 20 minutes I am sure everything should be warm enough to try a start. Once you get it going I would check to see if the block heater functions and if not replace it, and I would park closer to an outlet to plug it in next time if you can.

I like the piston "bulldog" in the last picture!

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like you are going to be able to enjoy two summers worth of truck and tractor shows in one year! When you headed back to the Kingdom? Or are you going to stay and check out the winter ?

I would think the engines are all the same blocks right? and same starter mount?

I have had similar experiences most recently was with ADT, got a bill with a $10 a month increase called and asked what was going on they said rate increase, I told them that I was supposed to be locked in because it is through USAA, she asked do you dispute the charge I said yes and she said I will lower your rate for a year back to the locked in rate, I asked if I needed to call back in a year she said that's up to you. I think company's do crap like this to see what they can get away with. I wonder how many and how much more they make by raising rates and seeing who will complain or call them on it?

I just called the Mack dealer to see what they would say, the parts guy that I spoke with said looks like it is for an MR I asked what motor and he said that needed a Vin# for an MR.

I sent them a message awhile ago and asked what the fit they had no clue and said to check with the Mack dealer, never did since the local one is not very helpful.

back of the cab lower where the pinch seam is, roof gutter, bottom of the doors especially passenger side if it has the washer fluid jug in the door.

Welcome back! Are you going old school now and put the F back on the road?

I thought of that awhile ago for the b numbers but could not find anyone to do it.

DITTO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That guy that does it will cast a mold make a copy in resin fix the flaws if any recast than make in plastic resin

I have redone a few trailers when it comes to brakes it is cheaper to replace the whole brake backing plate assembly with new. Surge brakes are ok but if you maintain the electric way less expensive and less overall work in my opinion.

Awesome send it my way and I will see what I can get made.

sent you a pm

I know I guy that can make the mold, I am not sure what he would charge but he is in the local ATHS here in KC, he made a KW shifter knob for our chapter president it looks awesome. If some one has an emblem they want to in trust me with while he makes a mold I will get it to him and then can let everyone know what it would cost.