Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 I hope I did that right and got pictures up so you can see. I’m all but computer illiterate. I use an iPhone I don’t even own a computer. Let me know if it helps. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 That is just perfect! Thank you for those pictures! It explains so much. I am sure it is tthe same as our water radiator and is what we need to look for to fit around it. I am guessing that before the outlets get flipped, it was likely 30.5 inches between horns. The height of your CAC core matches at 25 3/4" and I have found one that I expect is the same as yours. https://truckpartsinventory.com/part-details/84693932/new-1988-mack-rdmodel-charge-air-cooler-for-sale I assume your donor truck would have been the same1998 RD series Model as the above link shows. The S superliner would be an RW series and could even include a V8 engine I think in their model line. Perhaps I have a CAC from the RW series which I got with the E6 engine as it core depth is thicker and different mounts for a different radiator style. I am interested in knowing that it comes from an RD as I need to look for piping. I need to transform from 4" to the intake manifold (likely 3"). I have to measure. You have a nice aluminum transition piece. I also need to look around for an intake manifold like you found on ebay which moves the access port to middle of the engine. It looks like you found perfect piping with your CAC to complete the project. It looks very professionally done and you can be proud of your work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I wish I could tell you the exact model of truck that donated the cooler and piping. It’s in a different town and if I get by there I’ll look. I can tell you it’s a 1988 year with a 4 valve E6. It’s a very heavy spec truck as it was built new as a 11 or 12 yard cement mixer. 20K front axle, 2 drop axles and a let down tag behind. Center point Walking beam rear with no springs. That might help you know what model. But I don’t know think it’s actually an RD. But as soon as I can I’ll see. That cooler you show the link to looks identical the best i can tell. Mounting brackets and all. I think you’re on the right track. josh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 By the way I will clarify that the piping came directly off of the 88 truck with the charge cooler. All I bought was new silicone rubber connection boots. So that is why it looks factory. josh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Have you made any more progress? Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Yes. I have made more progress. We ordered a charge air cooler and are picking it up today. Hopefully it is the right one and we can cut the "horns" off and switch them around if required for clearance on the radiator. I am now getting back to putting the rest of the engine back together before putting it in. I have decided that the clutch needs to be changed on the donor engine. We bought another. It was wore down to the copper rivets! Now the first plan of attack is to change the front and rear seals. I see there are special tools to put the rear seal in. I saw also in my old 2vh book that the seal ring can be put in by heating to 400F and then putting it onto the crankshaft. I have looked at the other posted 1979 Dump Truck Clutch Parts which is very helpful for reference! Thanks to all. I have taken the front collar/wear ring to a machine shop and they will cut it down and put a sleeve on to make like new. It didn't actually look too bad but it doesn't look like it is something you want to mess with when the engine has the rad in front of it! Manual also says to heat this collar to 250 degF when installing. That will be m much easier to do when accessible! I don't think I need anything special to put this seal in. I see there is a $200 jig for that. I think I can just flush mount it into the housing with some care! https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73600-1979-dump-truck-clutch-parts/ Getting to the back seal, I am not sure if I should remove the seal housing and take the existing ring off or leave everything in place and change the seal itself and just inspect wear ring. I have noted in the 1981 book that I have that there is a very extensive procedure to its replacement including making sure this housing is within .005 of pan gasket surface and at the same time seal housing is concentric to the crankshaft! I am not sure if it all applies to my 1988 engine. Some of the instructions apply for a non-lip seal found in the oldest models and with an oil slinger! I didn't know it was going to be such rocket science. I don't want the new seal to leak either!!! The new seal I bought was shipped with a new wear ring. They were not shipped assembled so I assume it is not oversized and that I can put the ring on crankshaft before pressing in the seal. I have also seen that if seal is teflon, you don't want lubriplate on it and to put in dry? I think my seal looks standard rubber. I don't see any white which would indicate teflon I believe? I see the jigs for this operation are about $400 USd. The wear ring is also not flush mount so maybe need to buy the jig? It can also be used for E7's which I have a few trucks with. Not sure if heating to 400 degF will allow me to just slide the ring on? I can maybe machine my own setup but everything will have to be precise to get the ring on to the right depth. (.165 inch depth for the wear ring according to my old manual). I am not sure why it can't just be flush? It does seem that Mack had made the wear ring so you could actually put a second seal on at a different depth to gain a new surface for a replacement "service" seal. I am just amazed how they built that into their design. Most engines don't even use a wear ring until after you have grooved the crankshaft! I have always been impressed with Mack. I am afraid the Chinese engines and transmissions now don't even compare to these old girls and are not designed for longevity!! https://www.freedomracing.com/am-j-37716-b-mack-rear-crankshaft-seal-wear-sleeve-installer.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I own the rear main seal installer.. it works just fine.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Yeah Joey I think I should just buy it. I am doing the work myself and if I needed it again I will have it. Ruining a seal or having one leak after a bad install is not worth it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Bingo !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 1 hour ago, allfritz123 said: Yeah Joey I think I should just buy it. I am doing the work myself and if I needed it again I will have it. Ruining a seal or having one leak after a bad install is not worth it! I 100% agree I never new there was a proper tool, that been said I have made a mess of more than on in my life so I'm thinking 400 bucks plus shipping is a bargain compared to pulling the gear box out again For gentle heat 400f I use a old deep fryer out of the kitchen filled with oil I used to heat bearings etc in kitchen oven but found some times it turned them a little blue in colour, never had a issue but felt it was pushing my luck so I changed to a old deep fryer filled with hydraulic oil Works really well, I think it's a more gentle even heat All those other measurements are I think to make sure that the wear ring ends up in the correct location so the seal is fully running on it and not up on a shoulder or just on the edge When these are done right they won't leak for a million miles,at least thats my experience Paul 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Joey Mack Posted January 24 Popular Post Share Posted January 24 Paul, I have a large toaster oven in my shop. I can put it right next my work, and rock and roll.. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I’m glad to hear it coming together. Im not any help on the specs or technical details such as clearance or allowances. I don’t have any books or experience but I believe joey and many others here are great people to ask. This place is great. Im just following along and trying to learn a little from everyone. Lol. Josh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Its funny to read about heating and pressing. Im going back together with an N-14 right now that ate a cam and follower rollers. Instructions I found had us deep freeze the cam to zero degrees and heat the cam gear to 500 degrees and press the gear on. Its on and going back together now but it was a chore. I guess its not just macks you need a parts oven for. Lol. josh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 (edited) I was progressing slowly but steadily and finally got the donor engine into the truck. It actually went in really well. I am now facing a new problem and I hope someone can shed some light on it. This donor engine has a Robert Bosch pump while my original engine has an American Bosch pump. I have all the mechanical linkages for the American Bosch fuel pump in my truck. The donor engine was out of a cabover I believe and I have some linkages but my problem is the fuel racks in the opposite direction from what my old engine did. So my linkage is reversed! Can anyone tell me if there is a kit or have pictures of what my linkage should look look like in a Mack RD with the different fuel pump? I would have to reverse the fulcrum to make my accelerator pedal work correctly. If I flip my oscillating lever, I will be changing geometry and maybe only get half my throttle. I am wondering what my solution is! I have shown the linkage hooked up from the cabover donor engine. I put it on just for visual and looking for solution. I have the rod that links from my old design but it is not in the picture. I may have to move the lever on the fuel pump so I get more of a right angle to the fulcrum. Looking for suggestions~ I have modified a charge air cooler like Josh did and so I have that done already! I had to buy a new one! Edited February 21 by allfritz123 Added comment at end! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I’m not sure about the linkage other than a junkyard maybe for a donor truck. I happen to have the same Robert Bosch pump and will happily take some pictures of my linkage and post up if it would help anything. Let me know Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Thanks Josh! I have it figured out. I removed the roll pin and flipped the lever up at the firewall. This allowed for directional reversal. I used the same linkage. The only thing I had to do was bend the air compressor cooling tube out of the way as it was contacting the linkage. It is the copper line going from the blue compressor back to the block! It actually works good. I was fearful that the linkage was at such a horrible obtuse angle to the injection pump arm that it would bind or be difficult. It works smoother than I anticipated and so far it looks like the mid-hole is a good fit on the Robert Bosch pump. I don't need any of the other linkages used in the cab over scenario which go to the front. I am very much relieved that it turned out simple as it did. I envisioned having to put in an additional fulcrum! It certainly is hard to find these old trucks around anymore to learn from! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Yes it is hard to find them. Im lucky enough to have a friend with a small fleet of old mack mixer trucks that sit since he closed down his batch plant and he lets me scavenge a little when im in a bind but even he is careful about what he lets me get at. Lol. If not for him id be out of luck. Lol. Where I live there just never was all that many macks and none now. I’m sure glad to hear you got it figured out. Hopefully you’ll be on the road and running better than ever soon enough. I’m really curious to find out how you like the 4 valve engine in the same truck. My 2 valve went down last week and im hunting an engine now and im curious about the 4 valve as I’ve never driven one. good luck josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allfritz123 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 I will keep you posted when we get it going! We are pretty much in the same boat. There are very few Mack trucks in our area and definitely very few RD Macks. We have a variety of the E7 4 valve with the electronic modules. This our oldest one. It is nicknamed Bucky and okay to shift when you are used to it - hence the name! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Hahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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