2wdiesel2021 Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 I have a 2004 ch613 with a 350 aset. It started cutting out just randomly like you shut the key off and if you let off the throttle and back in it seems to come back. I put a new throttle position sensor and it has new engine position sensors. New fuel filter and pump, what else could it be? No codes related to it, just egr codes but that’s been that way for a long tine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 Loose ground's.... do you know where they are?? in the cab and outside the cab.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 Where are they? I will clean all of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 behind the cluster to the left is a 6mm bolt,,(10mm wrench) clean them, scrape off the heat shrink glue from the eyelts and throw the start washers away.. same approach at the fuse panel, right side in the cab,, then...... clean the big ground bolt on the engine block in front of the starter,,, (15/16" wrench) if it is loose,, you found the issue.. there is ground cable from that bolt to the frame straight off of it behind the steer tire.. clean the frame ground.. (15 mm wrench). on the firewall next to the starter relay is a black ground breaker..(13mm wrench) clean the ends,check for dry rot and cracks.. then the starter grounds..(3/4" wrench) I assume you checked the battery cabels.. If there is a fused link on the batts,, check it out.. (9/16" wrench) .. Keep in touch... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 Cleaned all grounds really good and it seemed to fix it, then about an hour in it started doing it again but less frequently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 On the ground bolt in the engine block, is 2 thin eyelets. They are for the engine harness. Did you take that all apart and clean each eyelet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 Did you happen to check the accessory relay in the cab fuse panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 Yes I cleaned both of those. I saw those two. That’s one place i didn’t check was the relay stuff on the passenger side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 When you locate the acc. Relay, you can switch it with the headlight relay. If I remember right, it is the same style. Then you can road test to see if the issue is still there.. I'm glad that there was an improvement.. another thing we have done before was to make a short ground strap, and attach it the the EECU housing under a mounting nut, then run it to the engine block.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 My driver just called and said he got loaded and it wouldn’t hardly accelerate at all. Shut the truck off, let it sit a minute and it was better. But still cuts out sometimes. Could this be the engine computer doing all this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 (edited) Test the boost pressure sensor (Key on/Engine off reading should be under 1 psi) Also has anyone messed with any of the parameters on this truck? Edited January 20, 2023 by Onyx610 Spilling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 Hmmm 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 Figured it out, I was getting an intermittent j1939 communication code, so started messing with that and unplugged the egr computer behind the eecu and problem solved. Doesn’t cut out anynore 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 That's great.. Thanks for posting the fix.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 If it does it again, wiggle the fuse for the EECU. My 2003 ETech had that problem, yielded a code 9-1? Or 9-4. I forget which code number. It's "engine power loss without key" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 9-2 is power reset without the key... Very common issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 26, 2023 Author Share Posted January 26, 2023 Well now the truck is acting like it’s running out of fuel or missing when trying to accelerate. It gave me codes for #5 eup data intermittent or incorrect. And the same for injector number 2 but just real quick as i was driving it. I had it on the laptop as i was driving. It idles just fine. It has a new fuel pump so i doubt low fuel pressure but any on-site is appreciated. Makes 26-28 lbs of boost still just misses it feels likeZ was running good for a couple of days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 there is a fuel pressure regulator at the out put on the fuel gallery near the #4+5 cylinder.. Have you checked fuel pressure with a hand held gauge? Not a computer!! Before you throw EUP's at it, check the wires to all of them to see if they are chaffed against the block and each other,,, (very common).. sometimes they fray and sre connected by 1/2 or less of the strands.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 26, 2023 Author Share Posted January 26, 2023 I replaced the fuel check valve. Can I T in there to check fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 yes.. leave the fuel temp sensor pluged into the 'T', just save a 1-7 code and a timing adjustment for the EUP's.. no real big deal, just better to not add a reason to through a code.. I have done this dozens of times.. I have a seperate tool box with the correct fittings just for this test.. Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 I am going to T aim right above the compressor after the fuel pressure regulator. There’s no sensor anywhere right there that I see? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 27, 2023 Share Posted January 27, 2023 ok, on the sensor.. some do not have it.. you are looking for 60 -80 PSI... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 Ok thanks, is that at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 27, 2023 Share Posted January 27, 2023 at all engine speeds.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdiesel2021 Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 Making sure I am putting the gauge in the right spot. I made a t into the return line after the little Regulator screwed into the block. Is that the correct spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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