Elitedownunder Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 Got hot and shut down so replaced the old two piece with a alloy one piece reservoir, flushed radiator and block, very clean. Has new water pump and hoses. No leakages externally or internally that I can see. Nothing in water, manifold and exhaust clean, nothing in air tanks only drops of cold clean condensation. Horton type fan operating at correct temps. When static operating you bring it up to temp range even at 1600 rpm and blip the throttle it won’t push coolant until you go down the road and come back then when you stop it pushes also when you then touch the throttle it also pushes. I haven’t looked at compressor but thought i would join the two hoses to complete the circuit and run it. Any other thoughts? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 God idea. Jump the compressor to rule it out. May also be the egr cooler that is leaking. Remove the pipe front the cooler outlet and see if there is coolant. Let us know what you find. V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 run time on an un-cooled compressor is short, before damage happens, however, youre post tells me that you have some good knowledge, and you will be cautious doing this test.... looking forward for the cure being posted.... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 19 hours ago, Vmac3 said: God idea. Jump the compressor to rule it out. May also be the egr cooler that is leaking. Remove the pipe front the cooler outlet and see if there is coolant. Let us know what you find. V No EGR on the ETECs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 8 hours ago, Joey Mack said: run time on an un-cooled compressor is short, before damage happens, however, youre post tells me that you have some good knowledge, and you will be cautious doing this test.... looking forward for the cure being posted.... jojo By passed with no probs running bobtail and it did not get over 80 or fluctuate but as soon as I put two 36 ft trailers behind (no load) it started rising and falling and as soon as you pulled up it was pushing though it was only limited but more then a dribble, but didn’t want to heat the compressor to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 (edited) I have an extended Mack Bendix Tu Flo 750, so what in the compressor needs replacing or what causes the compressor to push the coolant back? Edited August 27, 2021 by Elitedownunder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 29, 2021 Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 Replaced compressor head and serpentine belt but still pushing when at temp and stopped, so I’ve left it with a quarter of coolant in reservoir and is not pushing anymore. So tomorrow I’ll check level cold then take it for another run and if it’s not pushing I’m happy but the real test will be when the 44 tonne payload is put on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 On 8/27/2021 at 3:44 AM, Elitedownunder said: No EGR on the ETECs My apologies. Is this an Australian build? After testing it with lower coolant level and if it still pushes coolant with a heavy load, you may want to check for combustion gases in the coolant. V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 29, 2021 Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 Yep Australia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 (edited) Ok, so I top the coolant this morning with a couple of litres and drove my b double trailers empty for around an hour an sat on 80 C until you slow down or stop then it pours out the overflow 2 to 3 litres of coolant which had me wondering. So I went and purchased a thermal gun and after running it it showed me radiator at around 85/90 top and bottom the compressor around the same until I came to the thermostat housing and it showing me the front @ 90 the bottom rad hose at 85 and top hose at 50. So I’m thinking I’ve been sold the wrong thermostat. Another thing is which way should the seal face in the housing ? What say you guys? Edited August 30, 2021 by Elitedownunder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamkar Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 What pressure radiator cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 10 PSI …. Was thinking when I started her up the coolant sensor would come on and then go off after a couple minutes of driving then a week or two after it stayed on and this is when it started pressurising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 SB215025, is a service buliten that may be what you are looking for,,, Make sure that it applies to you, since you are in Australia... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 16 psi. should be correct for the cap... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 Thanks JoJo, but upon reading the SB it’s for non etech this is mainly for the ASET and EGR with twin Thermostat…mine is definitely a 10 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 ok, I am not familiar with Austrailian Macks. Here in the U.S. a 2005 is an ASET... Yes, 10 PSI is correct for an E-Tech.. Im sorry I didnt have the answer for you. Good luck.... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 Thanks mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 On 8/30/2021 at 2:45 AM, Elitedownunder said: Ok, so I top the coolant this morning with a couple of litres and drove my b double trailers empty for around an hour an sat on 80 C until you slow down or stop then it pours out the overflow 2 to 3 litres of coolant which had me wondering. So I went and purchased a thermal gun and after running it it showed me radiator at around 85/90 top and bottom the compressor around the same until I came to the thermostat housing and it showing me the front @ 90 the bottom rad hose at 85 and top hose at 50. So I’m thinking I’ve been sold the wrong thermostat. Another thing is which way should the seal face in the housing ? What say you guys? The lip of the seal should face towards the engine. V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 Is it still pushing coolant? V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 Yeah it is still pushing, so the lip should face the cabin not the fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 When you replaced the water pump. Did you inspect the housing on the front of the engine for pitting/cavitation?.... This can cause air into the system, which can cause excessive pressure and push coolant.. However, I'm still curious about an issue with compression leaking into the cooling system. "V" has touched on this... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 Wouldn’t he be seeing bubbles/pushing coolant regardless of being loaded or not if combustion gas was working its way into the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 (edited) Yes.... I was taught this procedure years ago by a 65 year old grumpy, MF'r.... Take the belt off the engine, by-pass the water lines for the air compressor, pull the top radiator pipe off, remove the thermostat, and put the housing back on, leave the short hose on top of the thermostat housing, fill the cooling system til' the water is at the top of the thermo housung,... which leaves 4-6 inches of hose sticking up off of the thermo housing , which will give room to watch the water perculate, like a coffee pot, pretty quickly if there is a head/gasket issue....you can let it run for 30 minutes or more at idle without overheating it. and just watch for bubbles in the top rad. hose... compression leaks will show up early.. i did chase a series 60 detroit that took a long run time before proving there was a head issue. I diagnosed it, but did not repair it... anyway, Good luck..... jojo Edited September 2, 2021 by Joey Mack More content needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 14 hours ago, Elitedownunder said: Yeah it is still pushing, so the lip should face the cabin not the fan? Yes. V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 Thanks guys I’ll give it a try Joey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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