175° DEGREE F - Kysor 24000 SHUTTERSTAT

[tenfive0]

Noticed this morning while driving my shutters were not opening. Enigne temp went to 190 and I pulled over to cool down and investigate. Tapped on the Shutterstat - maybe it was stuck. No Luck. Limped back to the shop. Simple things first. There is air the Shutterstat.  Called my local Mack Dealer and then Watts to find out Shutterstat are no longer available.

When a Shutterstat stops working are they scrap meta? Are these serviceable? Can you take them apart perhaps to clean them in an effort to get them working? I don't want to take it apart and totally screw things up.

Edited June 19, 2021 by tenfive0

[alex g]

Your looking for the air cylinder that controls the shutters? If so I have a few new ones laying on shelf. I'll send a pic later when I'm home

[Rob]

Sounds more like he means the shutterstat that is threaded into the coolant passage which controls the shutter air cylinder to me.

[theakerstwo]

175 may be hard to find because that is a little cold for the shutters to open.I would want the thermostat to be 175 or 180 and the shutters to open at 185 to 190.

[tenfive0]

Troubleshooting - Testing Shutterstat

Remove air line from the shutterstat to the shutters air cylinder - Air line pressure bleeds off - Shutter spring pressure overcomes air line pressure - Shutters open. 

Any leads or ideas on where to get a new shutterstat?

I have no clue what if any thermostat is in the truck but I'll be checking while replacing the shutterstat when and if I find one. Over the winter of 2019 I blew to radiator in the truck. Before I had it re-cored the temp would occasionally reach 200 on moderate to long up hill grades with my foot in it. Since the radiator's been fixed the truck consistently operates at 180 degrees. Warmer days with a heavy foot up hills the gauge might creep towards 190 but nothing higher. What might be suggested as a good operating temperature? I figured 180 was where it was at. When it starts to approach 190 I get nervous.

Edited June 19, 2021 by tenfive0

[theakerstwo]

190 is not too hot

[tenfive0]

PITA- Trying to find any Shutterstat let alone a 175. Wondering if its worth all the bull-crap owning an older truck. Come on this should be simple finding basic replacement parts? Not like I need a flux capacitor for time a machine. Maybe that's what I need a time machine to go back in time and stock pile parts for the future. 

I am not trying to reinvent the wheel. I guess I'm going to have to get creative and come up with some kind of toggle switch hooked to an air valve to open an close the shutters. 

[Rob]

It is very much worth the effort to have an older truck but you are asking for parts over 40 years obsolete and not being reproduced. Impatience will not help your cause, or quest with an older truck.

Your problem is easily addressed with the installation of an adjustable aquastat, and 12vdc pneumatic solenoid valve. Once at your desired temperature and differential settings, the system will run fault free. 

When unable to simply replace it is time to modernize, or upgrade. 

[Freightrain]

Agree, a simple 180ish thermal switch for a car application would suffice to operate a 12v solenoid.  Simple fix if you can't disect your shutterstat and fix.

Something like this, but lower rating.

https://truckpartshq.com/hd-aftermarket-parts/engine/rf993605/

 

[tenfive0]

Nothing the easy way. I figured simple fix. Just call the parts store. NO LUCK. I'm just getting tiered of the constant beat down lately. Every which way I turn I've been getting screwed. Like I said I have to get creative and I don't want to have to reinvent the wheel when it would have been much simpler to just get the replacement parts needed. Thanks for to assistance with a few ideas on which way to turn if I can't come up with a solution to the way the existing system operated for the past 50 years.  

[Rob]

I posted an ebay link for a shutterstat that should work for you in the application in your wanted advertisement.

[theakerstwo]

KYSOR Shutterstat 185 Temp Shutter Thermal Valve 1047-36000-29 | eBay

Here iis one set at 185

[theakerstwo]

SHUTTER STAT 1047-36000-28 180 F | eBay

[theakerstwo]

SHUTTER STAT 1047-36000-28 180 F | eBay

[tenfive0]

Thanks to all who have contributed with guidance. While I'm replace the shutterstat I'm considering replace the thermostat, OR NOT? It IS difficult finding a 175 degree shutterstat. No surprise. The closest shutterstat match I've come up with to the original is 180. Regardless, if the 175 is or was factory original it decided to exit the procession. From what I've reached there should be a (rule of thumb?)10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat. Accordingly the thermostat that is currently in my truck "SHOULD BE" a 165. WHO KNOWS, what might have been done to the truck 46 or 47 years prior to me owning it? Should I care or just pretend I didn't know there should be a 10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat?

Next dilemma find a 170 thermostat if I use a 180 shutterstat. Is the 10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat a minimum or maximum difference? What's a 5 degree difference between friends? Will a 5 degree difference be noticeable or even make a difference? I would just as soon not change the thermostat because it appears the engine was happy and things were operating correctly other then the shutterstat pooping on the parade. Trying to keep it simple if I can and not open up another can of whoop ass on myself replacing a thermostat (that appears to be operable) if I don't have too. My luck, while trying to replace a thermostat I break off a bolt or snap the thermostat housing somehow. A 2 or 3 hour job turns into another nightmare 40 hour job of busted knuckles and cursing when I should have just left well enough alone.        

[theakerstwo]

5 degree difference is too close.Go 10 degrees higher on the shutter and look at it this way.If they are same or too close your shutter will stay open too long or all the time then you engine is trying to heat the engine and all of the time your fan is trying to cool what your engine is trying to do so in the end your just trying to heat up the world.

 

 

 

 

 

go a min 

[tenfive0]

The old (broken) shutterstat was 175. The closest shutterstat I can find to a 175 is 180. If the 10 degree rule applies the thermostat currently in the truck should be a 165.

A 165 thermostat with a 180 shutterstat is 15 degrees difference higher.

If 5 degrees difference is to close together. The question is 15 degrees difference to far apart?

Edited June 25, 2021 by tenfive0

[tenfive0]

Nothing the easy way.

I had to remove the coolant filter from engine to gain access to the shutterstat to remove it from the coolant manifold. The filter is attached to a bracket and the bracket is attached to the coolant manifold held on the engine with three 3/8" 16 x 2-3/4 bolts. The first two bolts came out with a 9/16" six sided socket and 3/8" breaker bar and a little bit of grunting. I thought this isn't going to be too bad. Of course the 3rd bolt wouldn't budge with a six sided socket and 1/2" breaker bar. I started rounding the third bolt head using the socket and breaker. I had to resort the using an impact set on kill. It took about 20 minutes turning the bolt both ways, sweating jelly beans and cursing to finally get the bolt loose. I am reassembling the truck. Figured I'd take a few minutes. The first two bolt went in smoothly but the third bolt isn't giving up the fight easily. The threads and bolt hole is clogged up with corrosion. Turning the bolt in a little at a time cleaning the threads, backing it out and blowing it out with an air gun. I was contemplating replacing the thermostat but the way the third bolt is fighting I don't want to press my luck. I'm leaving well enough alone because the thermostat appear to have been operation correctly.  

Is there a specific torque setting for the water manifold bolts?  

[Freightrain]

I resort to typical torque specs for the size and grade of the bolt.  There again I didnt torque anything other then the heads when I had my 237 apart.  Just "snugged" everything using my calibrated elbow torque wrench.  ;). Click, click....

[tenfive0]

Yeah, usually my approach, too. But, at the risk of getting it right I thought I'd ask. 

I'm still shaking nervous about the disaster avoided if I rounder off or snapped a bolt.

After I got the 175 degree shutterstat off the engine I took it apart. The top half, air chamber looked like it was filled with 3 months expired cottage cheese and the rubber seals crumbled like stale potato chips. After disassembling and cleaning the removed shutterstat, I'm going to try to refurbishing it. I'm thinking about buying a new/old stock donor (higher or lower temp) shutterstat and using the top with my 175 degree shutterstat bottom half. The workings of the shutterstat look pretty simple and straight forward. I figure it's worth trying to fix the 175 shutterstat as a spare to keep on the shelf if the replacement 180 degree shutterstat fails or it doesn't work. Because, they aren't making 175 degree shutterstats anymore.     

 

[tenfive0]

Test drive today and it seems to be fixed. Perhaps better then before the shutterstat took a crap. The engine is running cooler. The temp gauge is reading just a tick below 180. If the gauge is right? Now, someone tell me it should be running hotter. But, I'm happy were its at.

Edited July 9, 2021 by tenfive0

[Freightrain]

If I dont work mine hard enough it will be around 170*.  Normally around 180 doing its thing.  I can hear the fan draw hard against the shutters if they close if I roll down a long hill.  I wouldn't sweat it.  Only on the longest hard pull has mine gotten to 190ish, but I ease off a touch.