Jump to content

2000 etech starting issues


Recommended Posts

2000 ch 613. What actually turns the fuel on to the engine and how particular about voltage.  Won’t start was under 30degrees now seems to be 50. This morning put charger on it and pumped the primer even though it felt like it had fuel again it and immediately started other wise just cranks! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting..... Any codes??  have you checked the Eng. Position sensor next to the overboard breather filter, and the RPM TDC sensor in the flywheel housing, at 10 O'Clock , (left side). you can Ohm them to see if they are open, you can also unplug one and try to crank the engine (after its been running and warmed up) if it cranks on the one thats plugged in, then switch off, and plug the first one back in then unplug the second one and try to crank it. if it doesnt start, the sensor that is plugged in may be bad.... I know "V" has the specs for the Eng. pos. sensor depth to the cam. I have taken the teardrop shim out and "Bingo' it cranks right up..   I will look for the Ohms. I think it's 900-1500 Ohms resistance...  jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
More content needed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No codes.  Other thing this thing does.  About 3 times in the last 6 months  when you turn the turn signal on it either goes to idle or shuts off one or the other does it so fast and comes right back can’t tell which it is.  Always has done it when accelerating away from a stop.      I will check the sensors soon as get a chance.   Thank you.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK.  now it sounds like a ground issue...pull the cluster, fix the ground to the left.... open cab fuse panel, fix the ground iside there, clean the ground breaker contacts on the firewall next to the stater relay, clean the ground behind the left steer tire and the other end of it on the engine block.. and just for kicks... make a ground wire that grounds the E.E.C.M. to the engine.. bolt it to one of the mount bolts betweeen the E.E.C.M.. and the mount stud.. they are not conductive to the block....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After checking the grounds that have been mentioned and the cam and crank sensors , check the connectors on the VECU in behind the passenger side kick panel.... make sure connections are good there and no rubbing of wires and check the connectors at the ECU  , the coolant bottle isn’t leaking down into the connectors is it ? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Bluebulldog said:

No codes.  Other thing this thing does.  About 3 times in the last 6 months  when you turn the turn signal on it either goes to idle or shuts off one or the other does it so fast and comes right back can’t tell which it is.  Always has done it when accelerating away from a stop.      I will check the sensors soon as get a chance.   Thank you.  

That is an interesting fault. No codes stored in any ECU? I wonder if you are shorting J1939 to 12V?? Normal voltage on the J1939 is 0V-2.5V on the green wire and 2.5V-5V on the yellow wire. Try checking the voltage with a multimeter with the key on engine running and with the signals on. Wiggle the harnesses by steering column and see what happens. You can access the J1939 at the data link port. beside the steering column.

V

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I should say no malfunction light reading a code.  Vo Mac wants me to bring it so he read the codes.  Says he’s seen some not show up on the dash.  Going to try what everyone has suggested here thinking I’ll take it over and let Rodney check it out first of the week if I can’t find it.    Seems to get better starting when it’s warm outside.  Still in the 30’s next week hoping to get it figured out so it doesn’t show up again in the middle of harvest this fall.  Thanks guys when I find it I’ll post back.  
 

couple degrees warmer this morning or it was ran all day yesterday whatever but it started fine this morning.  

Edited by Bluebulldog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok.. Good signs... have you checked the E.E.C.U. J-1/J-2 plugs for coolant wicking as stated in a previous post? is fuse 40 loose or dirty? its in the fuse box on the fire wall next to the steering column.. I'm trying to think of other things to check. do you have chaffed wires to the E.U.P.'s? are they secure on the E.U.P.'s? one repair I have made several times, is the harness coming out of the power distribution on the firewall rubbing on anything and shorting out the wires? jojo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You mentioned that when you put a battery charger on, the engine starts up. I am thinking that there may be a voltage drop issue, starter is pulling too much voltage causing the engine ecu not to receive enough voltage to stay awake as the engine is cranking over or weak batteries. I've seen this many times and its worth a try checking the batteries and all the power connections from the batteries to the starter. Total voltage drop across the positive cables and connections should be less than 0.5V.

All of these suggestions that are posted here by Joey are excellent and will cause these issues. Its a process of elimination. 

V

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks "V"   youre right..... Now I remember chasing one of these issues many years ago... I took a new battery off the shelf and grounded it to the truck, then ran a jumper to the E.E.C.U. fuse, #40 and powered the E.E.C.U. with the "isolated" battery, and the truck fired up.... damn good call "V"   Jojo

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know......? This another reason that I like this site created by BMT.... I read posts and it jog's my memory,  and then I can share what I learned... :) Jojo

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds more like it.  Truck only has 2 batteries which we always had 3 in all the others.   I’m wandering if 2 that are maybe just a little weak just won’t start it? I know they have to be 5 years old.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

on the fire wall.. open the hood, look at the left side, theres a 4'x6' black box... i think its in the 3rd row from the left, 3or 4 slots down from the top.. 25amp

Edited by Joey Mack
More content needed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Thanks "V"   youre right..... Now I remember chasing one of these issues many years ago... I took a new battery off the shelf and grounded it to the truck, then ran a jumper to the E.E.C.U. fuse, #40 and powered the E.E.C.U. with the "isolated" battery, and the truck fired up.... damn good call "V"   Jojo

I just learned something. I never thought of supplying a different battery to the ECU power fuse.

Thanks Joey

V

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For what it’s worth, I have 6 E-Techs, they all have either 3 or 4 batteries each. I’ve never been able to start one with just 2 N70’s in it.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the help guys.   Wouldn’t start this morning.   Pulled the #40 fuse put 12v from the jumper pack there and immediately started.    Check voltage before doing that and was at 10.8 volts so guess it’s time for 3!! New batteries and see what happens.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...