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Gunk in crankcase filter.


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youre pistons should be scraped on the thrust side. The P.A.I. kit I used had pistons, and rings in boxes, and new liners. I re-used the connecting rods. Of course, many will dissagree with re-using connecting rods without having  them checked, the engine ran good before i tore it down, and did not vibrate or shake,, it had a cracked head, and my cust wanted me to re-build it. after inspecting the crank journals, we decided to go for it. I guess, you and youre mechanic need to discuss it......

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There are plenty debates on reusing engine components, pistons, rods and the likes. Its all about how much money you want to spend. If the pistons are not out of round, ring lands are good, no cracks and the thrust and ani-thrust sides show little to no wear, then it can be reused. Connecting rods can be checked by using a dial indicator and rotating the engine and measuring the heights of the pistons. The liners need to be secured to the engine block bolted down with large washers. Anyway if you plan on keeping the truck for a long time then it will be a good investment to have all pistons replaced. But its up to the individual.

V

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Hello 880 joe, The E-7 I built, is doing good... When I did the job, we replaced, the: Heads, Water pump, Air compressor, Radiator, the oil cooler and turbo was a few months old and in great shape, so my customer asked me to re-use them. I agreed.. New belts, and fan clutch (viscous). The cam and lifters looked good, so we skipped that. I took the oil pump apart and measured the clearence, spring tension,  and there was no scarring. I put it back in, Oil pressure was, and still is, within spec when we ran the engine, (Run-in).. It still makes good oil pressure when hot. it's only been 4 months, but it's still doing it's job.. I know I repeated some stuff here.... The final cost: $10,500.00 Parts and labor.. Jojo

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Myself Long as the pistons and skirts look good I wouldn't hesitate to go the liner kit route! Also if you engine is 350 plus horse power DO NOT Atempt  using low spec Shoot for any thing above 25 thou as mentioned 28 is nice if you can achieve it! And strictly adhere to the 2 thou variance between holes!Also! Suggest  use a good quality Silicone permatex  Ultra gray or ultra black Have also used there  Anaerobic sealant works well also!   Try to avoid cutting the counter bore if you can Putting down shims can be a risky business  if not done correctly can backfire! before your guy up roots liners Measure where your at See what protrusion is there!  Theroy here being, It ran before it will run again if were in and around the midrange spec!

These Guys are putting you on the right road here Just heed the warnings!

 

Good luck bro

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Thank you "F" for adding youre knowledge.. when i'm building an engine, the deck looks like a "math problem" with all of my paint pen measurements, I also sketch the deck on cardboard and re-write my measurements on the cardboard "art work" ....Anyway.  I have been mocked at dealerships for my redundancy....... but when my engines fire-up...... there's no problems... I take neary 10-15 hours longer than most, but .....  I dont know it all,,,, but i'm proud of what I know.. I'm glad you're here.. Jojo

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14 hours ago, Mark T said:

I bet someone had green antifreeze in that engine

You'll notice that now a days you can find mostly 50/50 antifreeze  no mixing required two reasons ! they make more money For sure! How ever water quality is controlled also ! With full strength your at risk of adding in unwanted minerals yada yada! Where I work we wouldn't entertain using  the water with antifreeze, Just the Iron content of the water is off the scale We have a big sign on the wall DON'T DRINK THE  WATER HERE! That goes for the trucks we repair as well!

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