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Mack EUP problem


Eliott

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Hello, looking for some help with my 2003 Mack CH613 E7 engine, I have a lightning bolt displayed on the dash, and I'm getting a code of, 8-1,8-2,8-3,8-4,8-5,8-6, could all the EUPs be bad on the truck? The truck runs good ,no idle issues, I was gonna replaced all until I found out it around $800-$1,000 per Unit pump, thanks.

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23 minutes ago, Eliott said:

Hello, looking for some help with my 2003 Mack CH613 E7 engine, I have a lightning bolt displayed on the dash, and I'm getting a code of, 8-1,8-2,8-3,8-4,8-5,8-6, could all the EUPs be bad on the truck? The truck runs good ,no idle issues, I was gonna replaced all until I found out it around $800-$1,000 per Unit pump, thanks.

Check and clean the engine grounds near the starter 15/16 bolt head  with a bunch of wires bolting to the block!

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There was a time when Mack experienced premature codes during that vintage. They had a software update to “desensitize” the ECM so it wasn’t tripping so many 8 codes. That said......I’ve seen trucks with nearly all EUP popping codes and truck running down the road.

You should be paying $300 for those EUPs. I order from K & S Fuel Injection, Wausau. Mike Kosky. Wilbur has someone even cheaper, I forget the name of that website.

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I’m having the same problem with my 2005 E-7 460. Mack is talking about 800 labor and $1,000 a piece for the injector. Are there any special tools needed to replace the number 1and number 2 ?

I've seen guys here paying $300+- for them. Are the parts different or what?

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what are you wnating to change?  the injector or the EUP?  keep your wallet closed for now..  A bunch of us can save you some trouble, also, you are reacting to a 4 year old post..  #2,  we need to know what the issue is, and what you want from the repair..   too many newbies are sucked in to spending money for no reason..   Jojo

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

what are you wnating to change?  the injector or the EUP?  keep your wallet closed for now..  A bunch of us can save you some trouble, also, you are reacting to a 4 year old post..  #2,  we need to know what the issue is, and what you want from the repair..   too many newbies are sucked in to spending money for no reason..   Jojo

Yup I agree with Joe here post your symptoms a see what the masses say !also last six of your vin and model!lots of help here if you post all the info!including history of your issue!

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The truck is a 2005 Mack sleeper last 8

5N001649. Mack dealer says it needs #1 and #2 EPUS and EGR cleaned. It sputters kinda like water in fuel feeling. I’m not knowledgeable on engine repair but I can follow a manual. I bought the truck 2 years ago for $13,500 . It did fine with light loads in warm weather and flat surfaces but anything above 30,000 pounds was a problem. I’m going to set it up as a service truck/ salvage truck and equipment pulling a 1975 lowboy with a hydraulic dovetail. Also trying to decide if I should put a wet kit on it.this is the truck on the lowboy 

IMG_1248.jpeg

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EUP's are the high pressure solenoid operated fuel pumps underneath the exhaust manifold.  Theres one for each cylinder. Technically these are the injectors. They run at 24,000+ psi, so DO NOT crack injector lines while running.  It'll inject diesel into your skin and poison you. The injector lines are the metal lines that go from the EUPs into the head to the fuel Nozzles that are installed in the heads.  Dealer will tell you the injector lines are single use items, they'll want to replace those on any injectors they change out. Joey Mack will give you guidance on this.  EUPs can and do fail. Id be surprised if all 6 were bad, but I had my 2003 in at the dealer a few months ago and 3 were bad. 

You can source parts from M&D Distributors for cheaper.  Reman Bosch EUPs cost me around 500 I think. Bosch EUP followers I believe we're $150, cheaper than the PAI ones.  I would replace followers on any EUP that gets pulled.  I had 2 bad followers on my engine.

I would start with cleaning engine grounds and checking EUP wiring harness for cracked wire insulation. All 6 sending codes sounds odd.

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The EUP is the high pressure fuel pump. Each cylinder has one. They are on the right side under the chrome shields below the turbo.  Dont be so quick to buy news just yet. The wires on those are known to run through and short out and that is an easy fix in most cases.. just keep up with us and we will guide you..

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Jojo, yes there was a shim in there. Replaced the sensor and put it back in with new one but I will take it out this afternoon when I get to the shop

as for the rpm sensor on the flywheel, it was definitely dirty. Both inside and out, I did inspect it as there was oil and mud caked on it but couldn’t find anything that would make me cut it and recrimp new wiring. What throws me off is after cranking for a long while, the radio and everything starts flickering in the cab and I can hear a relay clicking lots in the dash. When I had a friend who’s a little more tech savvy than me take a look he was telling me a large draw from the starter even after putting a fresh rebuilt starter in 

 

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Ok, so if you remove the teardrop shim behind the RPM/TDC it may just fire up... I have done this many times..  I'm not saying that it will fix it, but with the weak early front covers, there has been issues with the clearance.  I dont have the measurements, because ...  well,, I dont.  LOL.. the cam has a stout thrust washer and a waliking cam is not in the cards..  if it walks just a little bit there will be some clashing.. 

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