thomastractorsvc 1,361 Report post Posted April 29 First of this week I had an air bag mount break off. After closer inspection the reason it broke was it had been welded to the swing arm as the pin/stud that is mounted to the end of the swing arm that supports the airbag and transverse rod was broken. After removing the transverse rod it was apparent that the pin had been broken for a long time. Not sure but it was obvious a PO had that repair made. The way the repair was made it was not detectable as it was being held in place by the air bag mount and the transverse rod. The shoddy repair held for some time as I have used the truck for the last year and hauled many a ton of rock with it. When I purchased the truck I went through it mechanically and I replaced the air bags last year and never noticed. I got in the manuals, online and called Mack and learned that the pin was actually a two piece design. The heavy pin portion and the threaded part. The pin accepts a threaded stud and is held in place with a roll pin (Vlad talks about this in a post from several years ago). In my search for parts the pin and stud were NLA. By looking at the pin and break it appeared the the pin was just welded to the plate. Dan, a facebook friend told me that the pin actually extends into the arm several inches and that I would need to cut a hole in the top of the arm and remove it. Here you can see the old pin and the new one. I had the pin made with a cut down threaded portion and a new washer/end cap plate. $150. Pin is 9 1/2" long x 2 1/2" round and threaded portion is 2 3/4" long x 1 1/4" fine thread Here is the cutting out of the old pin and welding in the new 3/8 plate used to secure the end of the pin. Dan mentioned that his problems were not the pins breaking off like mine did but t end of the pin breaking loose in the swing arm. I used the same pitch as the other pin on the other side, 6 degrees and used the washer to align in the pin left to right. I used ER90S mig wire I welded the best I could around the sides and bottom then used some filler to weld up across the bottom I also plated the top and sides just because a repair that is worth doing is always worth over doing! Test fitting a bushing The most difficult part was removing the transverse arm. I used heat and a 3/4 impact to remove the nut and washer. The bushings were packed with rust and debris and I used my tractor as an anchor point a come along, air chisel. hand chisel, torch and hammer to eventually get it off about 3 hours and that was from just one side. I was trying not to damage anything because I was unsure at the time what i could find for parts (new or used) I located a Swing arm for $200 and a Transverse Rod for $150 but my concern was the pin may not last very long and the transverse rod was going to be a couple days to get. I had to rebuild the air bag mount on the passenger so I decided to redo both sides. There were some scabbed on brackets and poor welds so at least it would look the same and I would not have to lay on the ground and try to fix it if the other side broke. I have about 3 hours redoing the transverse arm. I used a 4" wire wheel air needler and a 2" drill mounted sanding drum to clean up the insides. Installing was straight forward I used silicone spray antiseize on the pins and soap on the rubber. The service manual states to replace all bushings at service of 100K miles, like most they only get replaced when worn out. The service kit for the transverse bushings is SKR 77-1 ($138) it consisted of 2 inner beveled washers, 4 bushings, 2 large outer washers, 2 nuts and 2 smaller washers that go between the nut and the outer washers. I coated the pins with antiseize, placed the large bevel washer and a bushing on each pin, lifted the transverse rod on and pushed best I could into place. As I did this by myself, I used a floor jack to help hold the transverse bar while I inserted the outer bushing and drove it in using a block of wood and hammer. Once I could get the outer washer on and start the nut I did the other side the same way. I then used my 3/4 drive ratchet and worked both sides until I had at a couple threads exposed. I test drove and then rechecked and got about another full turn or so. As the nuts are lock type I am not concerned about backing off but will watch and check over the next week or so. I am no Neway Suspension expert but if I can provide any answers to your questions feel free to ask or pm. I did the work myself and the weather was raining most of the week so I wasn't missing out on any hauling. My cost was around $325 including the bushings, machine shop, welding wire/consumable/torch. I spent a total of around 16 hours working on it but now that I have done it could probably cut it down to 10 to 12 including running for the parts. I spent about 2 hours using a portable band saw and cutting the welds off the end of the swing arm because at the time I was doing it I did not know that it was welded on the inside. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Underdog 1,391 Report post Posted April 30 I have the ARD38 on my MH. I will call you for any repairs!Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timmyb 604 Report post Posted May 5 (edited) Nice job on the thread, lots of pics... even a dummy like me could follow. That pin you had made looks a lot like a rocker box pin. Only with out the hex head on the end. Edited May 5 by Timmyb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freightrain 1,724 Report post Posted May 5 Wow. Nice work. With all my machining capabilities I don't know why I didn't just cut my pins off and make new? Maybe someday I will. Mines ARD 144. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harrybarbon 69 Report post Posted May 8 Hi Thomas We are in the process of rebuilding a 1985 Neway ARD 238-6 suspension. We need to replace the all bushes and fittings, etc on all 3 sections, that is the frame hangers, equalizer beams and transverse beams and both sides of the suspension. Your pictures and information here is just in time for us. The maintenance manual is also very helpful. 2 questions please, 1/ The kit you paid $138 for the transverse beam, did this include the 4 split / beveled (wedge shaped) steel bushes and the 4 rubber bushes and other parts? If the beveled steel bushes are not in the kit, do you know if they are in stock/supply? Our transverse beams beveled steel bushes are history - rusted and we had to oxy/cut them to disconnect the transverse beam and equalizer beams. 2/ What was the supply time, from time of ordering the kit to receiving and did you buy direct from SAFHolland, the Neway manufacturer? Thank you again for the pictures etc Harry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thomastractorsvc 1,361 Report post Posted May 10 On 5/5/2017 at 4:36 AM, Timmyb said: Nice job on the thread, lots of pics... even a dummy like me could follow. That pin you had made looks a lot like a rocker box pin. Only with out the hex head on the end. Not sure I know what that is {rocker box pin} I used the dimensions off the old one and what Dan said his were. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thomastractorsvc 1,361 Report post Posted May 10 On 5/7/2017 at 11:19 PM, harrybarbon said: Hi Thomas We are in the process of rebuilding a 1985 Neway ARD 238-6 suspension. We need to replace the all bushes and fittings, etc on all 3 sections, that is the frame hangers, equalizer beams and transverse beams and both sides of the suspension. Your pictures and information here is just in time for us. The maintenance manual is also very helpful. 2 questions please, 1/ The kit you paid $138 for the transverse beam, did this include the 4 split / beveled (wedge shaped) steel bushes and the 4 rubber bushes and other parts? If the beveled steel bushes are not in the kit, do you know if they are in stock/supply? Our transverse beams beveled steel bushes are history - rusted and we had to oxy/cut them to disconnect the transverse beam and equalizer beams. 2/ What was the supply time, from time of ordering the kit to receiving and did you buy direct from SAFHolland, the Neway manufacturer? Thank you again for the pictures etc Harry Sorry about the late response. Don't worry about the steel bushings, the new ones are made of rubber coated steel. I guess somebody figured out a better way. To answer your next question I ordered from Custom Truck and Equipment before noon and had the next day buy 10, freight was $25 or $30. I ordered the first go around via stengal bros, on a Tuesday and was told I would have on Friday, they were around $50 more with shipping. After the second day and no shipping confirmation I called said it would be Monday or Tuesday the next week unless I wanted to pay $150 for overnight. I told them to cancel the order then called Custom Truck. I went with Stengal Bros because of recommendations from FB but I guess if you cant walk into the store might as well get from local. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harrybarbon 69 Report post Posted May 17 Thank you, very helpful Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
