Elitedownunder Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Hi Guys, I hope someone can help me out as I have just finished a full rebuild on my 94 CLR VMAC1 454 18 speed, runs like new but, the new Eaton 15.5 clutch I put in will not disengage when operated. I have adjusted the clutch correctly but will not disengage and then readjusted it right off but still no joy....any ideas???? When marrying the engine and gearbox it was a struggle going in and had to use longer bolts to bring them together, though was successful. So any thoughts???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Truck Shop Posted November 10, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted November 10, 2016 Either you have one of the clutch discs backward, there is a flywheel side and pressure plate side. Or one of the discs was not in alignment and or got bent when installing transmission. Was the input shaft in good condition and did you change the pilot bearing? I always install the clutch with the transmission on a 15.5 clutch. Much easier and way less trouble, the trans should have mated without using longer bolts. Never want to force it. Truck Shop 4 Quote One ping only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 There is a possiblity that the separater pins on the internidate plate are not even ! take a 1/4 inch punch and on each preasure plate mounting lug there is a hole put the punch in the hole and tap on it turn the engine and tap on each one till you have done all 4 and see if this repairs the issue! Also if you had the flywheel surfaced the springs on the dapper hub can hit the bolt heads of the crank if to much was removed as well as if you were handed the wrong clutch the damper some damper hubs DON'T fit the flywheel cut out! Just some stuff Ive been bitten by! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Hey guys thanks for the feedback I appreciate it. Truck shop the plates were put in the correct way around as per the writing on the plate, the spigot bearing was replaced and the dummy shaft aligned it all. The input shaft was not changed but did have some surface rust on it that I cleaned up, Last thing I did was knock in all of the pins, I did have the flywheel machined but only enough to remove some surface rust and Mack provided myself with this clutch which is the same as the one that came out. Once again I appreciate it...last thing I want to do is split the box from the motor.Though truck shop may be right and I have bent a disc forcing it in. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I have seen clutchs destroyed by forcing them in. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 So have I, but this was eased in ..... so what help did you want to add to this thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck Shop Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 When you bolted the clutch to the flywheel and torqued the bolts to 55 ft lb, did the wood blocks fall out on final torque? I'm taking about the blocks Eaton installs between throw-out bearing and clutch cover to keep pressure plate depressed. On final torque when the clutch cover seats it's self to flywheel the blocks should just barely fall out on there own when every thing is right. And what is the distance between throw-out bearing and clutch brake? Should be 1/2" plus or minus a small amount and free play at 1.5 to 2". Just some Q's. Truck Shop Quote One ping only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) When you take the clutch back out then check to see the bolt heads weren't hitting the springs I have had to remove the washers to make things work on occasion As the truck shop mentioned Be sure your gap is correct! how ever if its a mack trans its very hard to see around the clutch fork! We are assuming you are working with a NON solo Clutch!???? Good luck with it! Post what you find! Edited November 11, 2016 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Truck shop and FJH thanks guys, still no joy and will have to split the box soon as running out of time, and yes the wood virtually fell out once torqued also I have correct spacings but will not let go. My clutch fork is underslung but does the same thing. Will try again tomorrow before splitting it. Thanks for the ideas. WIll let you know what I find. Also anyone know anything about the Vickers pumps for power steering as its all piped back up after the rebuild but nothing even after bleeding and jacking and bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 If someone could post pics of their piping to make sure mine is correct, as I do not know what side the pressure is on these vane set ups...mine is the V20F 1P11P 38D 6H 22L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 had another go at adjusting and all looks fine with 1/2" between clutch bearing and brake and fork fingers adjustment is good also. I did move the vehicle with revs and meshing and using clutch as once the foot is down (clutch brake engaged you can feel the motor labour) but still will not engage but moving back and forwards a few times with revs and mesh the new ceramic plates were smoking some...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Rev the engine right up a couple of times the vanes sometimes stick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Hey guys, well I removed the box and found I had the plates ass about, so reversed them and just like a new one. Also I removed the V20 pump for the P/S and found I had reversed the rotation, anyway all good now. I really appreciate the Help and views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 don`t that just make ya want to bite a piece of apple pie? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 That's the trouble down under, sometimes things get all ass around! You-all drive on the wrong side too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elitedownunder Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 now if I can stop it over fuelling (blowing heaps black smoke) timing must be right as I set it up with the A/B box and set at 10 BTDC...what else would I look at to confirm then adjust?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry54 Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Hey Bud,You Might Check Your CAC ( Air to Air) Piping. You Need To Make Sure That The Clamps Are Tight And With NO Holes In The Rubber Hoses. What Type Of Engine Did You Say You Have ? Usually Black Smoke Indicates Engine Starving For Air.Might Check Your Air Filter As Well. Let Me Know When You Figure It Out.Wish I was Their To Help You. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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