E7x Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 AS TITLE SAYS ON MY 97 CH613. I WAS WOUNDERING IF SOMEONE HARE CAN CONFIRM IF I'M RIGHT OR WRONG OR, IF THERE IS A OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROB THAT IS NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. WHEN TRUCK IS IDLE AT 600 FOR MORE THEN 5 MIN IT PUSHES ANTIFREEZE OUT TO TOP TANK THEN IT GOES TO THE OVERFLOW TANK AND FINALLY SHOOTS OUT THRU A SMALL HOLE IN PLASTIC CAP. WHEN I IDLE AT 1000 AND ABOVE OR JUST DRIVE IT, THEN I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING NOR LOOSING ANTIFREEZE. I HAVE REPLACED A WATER COOLER, A TOP TANK CAP, TOOK A THERMOSTAT OUT, FLUSHED A SYSTEM AND CHECKED A RADIATOR FOR LEEKS. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL, THE ONLY THING THAT I HAVE NOT DONE IS THE HEAD GASKET. IF THERE IS OTHER WAY OF FIXING IT WITHOUT REPLACING A HEAD GASKET THEN PLEASE HELP.I DON'T HAVE A TIME AND MONEY TO INVEST IN THIS TRUCK AT THIS TIME, IT DRIVES NORMAL WHEN RPM'S ARE ABOVE 1000. THANKS, RAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 AS TITLE SAYS ON MY 97 CH613. I WAS WOUNDERING IF SOMEONE HARE CAN CONFIRM IF I'M RIGHT OR WRONG OR, IF THERE IS A OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROB THAT IS NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. WHEN TRUCK IS IDLE AT 600 FOR MORE THEN 5 MIN IT PUSHES ANTIFREEZE OUT TO TOP TANK THEN IT GOES TO THE OVERFLOW TANK AND FINALLY SHOOTS OUT THRU A SMALL HOLE IN PLASTIC CAP. WHEN I IDLE AT 1000 AND ABOVE OR JUST DRIVE IT, THEN I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING NOR LOOSING ANTIFREEZE. I HAVE REPLACED A WATER COOLER, A TOP TANK CAP, TOOK A THERMOSTAT OUT, FLUSHED A SYSTEM AND CHECKED A RADIATOR FOR LEEKS. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL, THE ONLY THING THAT I HAVE NOT DONE IS THE HEAD GASKET. IF THERE IS OTHER WAY OF FIXING IT WITHOUT REPLACING A HEAD GASKET THEN PLEASE HELP.I DON'T HAVE A TIME AND MONEY TO INVEST IN THIS TRUCK AT THIS TIME, IT DRIVES NORMAL WHEN RPM'S ARE ABOVE 1000. THANKS, RAF.Sorry man! head gaskets MIGHT fix it for while low liners is most likly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E7x Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 Sorry man! head gaskets MIGHT fix it for while low liners is most likly .THANKS FOR REPLAY. WHY DO YOU THINK LINERS IS THE PROBLEM? PLEASE EXPLAIN ... THANKS, RAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvgarr Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 have you checked the fan clutch sounds like thats the problem or the water pump is going out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 have you checked the fan clutch sounds like thats the problem or the water pump is going outThermal brings up a good point before jumping head first into my theroy .Plug off the bleed hole in the waterpump case ,see if that makes a diffrence.and make sure the fan is working correctly !AND make sure there are no air controled water shut offs in the bunk these can put air into the coolant system at odd times faking a persons diagnosus.As for my theroy these engines had problems with low liners at 460 horse power!What was good enough for 350 turns out is too low for 460.19 thou is low spec 28 thou is highspec for liner protrution ,an engine that is set at 460 and has low spec liner protrution has a good chance of havig head gasket problems (symtoms like yours )A water pump sucking air can cause this as well as over heatwill also cause it! You need to check the cheap and easy stuff first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bollweevil Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Does this engine have a water rail, lower the coolant level and take it off, remove the engine belts add coolant to fill the heads, and fire it off. If it has a combustion leak, you won't have to wonder anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 I have seen the bleeder hose stopped up and push water out but in m ost cases it heats at idle but runs normal at hi rpm but that still means compressuion in the coolant in most cases. glenn Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambi80 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 I had a coolant-push problem last summer...ended up being the air-compressor head gasket being bad and pushing compressed air into the coolant. Started with being random amounts at random times, then into full blown inability to hold coolant. Anyway, try bypassing the air compressor coolant lines when you're at idle. Quote Ever wonder how a blind person knows when to stop wiping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hook n ladder 1 Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I have a 98 CH with the same problem. It would happen when I would turn the heater off. Heater on I had no problems. I had a kinked heater hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unitedsalad Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 AS TITLE SAYS ON MY 97 CH613. I WAS WOUNDERING IF SOMEONE HARE CAN CONFIRM IF I'M RIGHT OR WRONG OR, IF THERE IS A OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROB THAT IS NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. WHEN TRUCK IS IDLE AT 600 FOR MORE THEN 5 MIN IT PUSHES ANTIFREEZE OUT TO TOP TANK THEN IT GOES TO THE OVERFLOW TANK AND FINALLY SHOOTS OUT THRU A SMALL HOLE IN PLASTIC CAP. WHEN I IDLE AT 1000 AND ABOVE OR JUST DRIVE IT, THEN I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING NOR LOOSING ANTIFREEZE. I HAVE REPLACED A WATER COOLER, A TOP TANK CAP, TOOK A THERMOSTAT OUT, FLUSHED A SYSTEM AND CHECKED A RADIATOR FOR LEEKS. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL, THE ONLY THING THAT I HAVE NOT DONE IS THE HEAD GASKET. IF THERE IS OTHER WAY OF FIXING IT WITHOUT REPLACING A HEAD GASKET THEN PLEASE HELP.I DON'T HAVE A TIME AND MONEY TO INVEST IN THIS TRUCK AT THIS TIME, IT DRIVES NORMAL WHEN RPM'S ARE ABOVE 1000. THANKS, RAF.We had this issue with our 2002 cx613 and ended up having all the coolant system updates done on it there were 8 of them the problem is fixed now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hook n ladder 1 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Raf, I had the same problem with my 98 CH. The problem was a kinked heater hose. It didn't look kinked to me but it had a pretty sharp bend to it. I replaced that line with a straighter hose and the problem went away. Also when I had the kinked hose it wouldn't fill up the reservoir if I had the heater on all day. As soon as the heat was off the tanks would start to fill up and squirt out of the little hole. Hope that's your problem.Good luckRob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackmech Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 check thermostat and see if it has bleeder hole and that it is installed facing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackmech Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 AS TITLE SAYS ON MY 97 CH613. I WAS WOUNDERING IF SOMEONE HARE CAN CONFIRM IF I'M RIGHT OR WRONG OR, IF THERE IS A OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROB THAT IS NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. WHEN TRUCK IS IDLE AT 600 FOR MORE THEN 5 MIN IT PUSHES ANTIFREEZE OUT TO TOP TANK THEN IT GOES TO THE OVERFLOW TANK AND FINALLY SHOOTS OUT THRU A SMALL HOLE IN PLASTIC CAP. WHEN I IDLE AT 1000 AND ABOVE OR JUST DRIVE IT, THEN I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING NOR LOOSING ANTIFREEZE. I HAVE REPLACED A WATER COOLER, A TOP TANK CAP, TOOK A THERMOSTAT OUT, FLUSHED A SYSTEM AND CHECKED A RADIATOR FOR LEEKS. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL, THE ONLY THING THAT I HAVE NOT DONE IS THE HEAD GASKET. IF THERE IS OTHER WAY OF FIXING IT WITHOUT REPLACING A HEAD GASKET THEN PLEASE HELP.I DON'T HAVE A TIME AND MONEY TO INVEST IN THIS TRUCK AT THIS TIME, IT DRIVES NORMAL WHEN RPM'S ARE ABOVE 1000. THANKS, RAF. check thermostat see if there is a bleeder hole in it and that it is installed facing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knelsonrepair Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Sorry to open this so far down the road. I am working on a 1998 Mack E7-460 that is blowing coolant out of the overflow tank. It is pressurizing the system. The customer had it to Mack last year and they installed a new head and one cylinder. It was fixed for three weeks and started doing the same thing. He called Mack and they are scratching their head. He doesn’t want to spend a lot of money on this truck so he brought it to me since my labor rate is cheaper. I pressure checked the cooling system for three days and didn’t lose any pressure. I have also removed the rocker arm assemblies and pressurized the intake manifold to 50 psi and I can’t see any bubbles in the tank indicating a crack between the valves. It had a sleeper but has been removed and made into a day cab. I am really scratching my head as to why after 40 minutes of driving it over pressurizes the radiator cap. The Mack dealer installed a new thermostat and air compressor as well sounds like they were just throwing parts on the engine hoping to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trenchking Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Knelsonrepair, did you ever get the problem figured out? My 98 is doing the same thing,run it about 60 miles & pushing coolant out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody454 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 air compresser? friend has a 2001 CH and thats what the problem was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trenchking Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Guess the air compressor is my next step! Checked for exhaust gases in coolant several times, nothing shows up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 On 2/22/2018 at 8:36 AM, Trenchking said: Knelsonrepair, did you ever get the problem figured out? My 98 is doing the same thing,run it about 60 miles & pushing coolant out! Is it a sleeper model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvicess Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 i have seen the surge tanks be the issue and have removed the 2 tank system on a few CH models to resolve the issue. mack coolant res.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isac Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I’m having the same issue on my 2001 Mack ch 613 dump truck when it’s loaded it seems to get pressure in the surge tank then push through the reservoir then out the little hole on cap I’ve changed the water pump thermostat oil cooler radiator took it off and got it cleaned and checked it’s not plugged changed the caps top and bottom no oil in the coolant no coolant in the oil and never runs hot I don’t know what else to do took it to Mack they say my radiator has cold spots To replace radiator but really not agreeing with the diagnostic they did can anyone help me out I’m thinking the compressor but there’s no coolant in my air tank tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahubbard Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 My 99 rd used to push coolant out the small hole in the cap. I have the 2 piece tank and now I leave the lower tank empty. No problem any more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isac Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 But I top the top tank then as it works or it’s loaded it’ll go to the bottom which is the reservoir then fill up and shoot out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahubbard Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 You are making pressure somewhere then. I leave my bottom one empty and top one filled and the bottomStays empty. But if I put coolant in the bottom one it will come out that weep hole and cover the side of motor. Like it siphons itself out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isac Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Yeah I know just not sure if it the radiator that’s not flowing correctly like Mack told me or it’s the compressor I’ve spend over 3 thousand and still can’t figure it out some say it’s the block some say the head or head gasket some say compressor I don’t know wat else to do took it to 3 different mechanics and changed a lot of parts from the dealer and still the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahubbard Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Can you pressure the coolant system to check for leaks? My buddy’s was pushing coolant when loaded. Especially when pulling a hill. That ended up being a head gasket. Pressurize the coolant system and see if you hold pressure or lose it somewhere. I have.l a feeling if the air compressor is the problem it would push coolant loaded or empty, and do it when the compressor is kicked in pumping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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