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What is the proper way to adjust the single disk clutch? thanks

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talked to D W clutch yesterday they are rebuilding my clutch. They said just adjust externally for free play.

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got clutch back today . they put ceramic buttons on the flywheel side and kevlar on the pressure plate side. I think its interesting that the pressure plate looks to be original and has rebuilding date stamp from 63 , 68 , and 77. in 1963 the thing would have only been a year old maybe someone was learning to drive.

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Clutch brake? reading through old posts i learned they are countershaft mounted on push clutches. i don't see one anywhere. were they optional? anyone have a pic of this setup.

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Clutch free travel is the most important factor to consider, this is the distance between the throw-out bearing and the pressure plate, the throw-out bearing should NOT touch the plate which translate to 1 to 1.5 inches of free travel of your clutch pedal measure from the floor. On single disc push type set-ups the adjustment is made through the clutch linkage, I have never came across a clutch brake on this type of clutch, On dual disc clutch pull type set-ups the free travel is adjusted through the pressure plate adjustment mechanism, the clutch brake is adjusted through the linkage and it should just touch the clutch brake. The best performance out of any type is to have the flywheel "TURN" and checked for run-out. Be sure to use a new pilot bearing.

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Some push type clutch did have the counter shaft brake but I think only on the two plate push type.

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The old Brockways had a unusual adjustment by pulling the stainless shims out of the hold down bolts for pressure plate at about 20 .

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Some push type clutch did have the counter shaft brake but I think only on the two plate push type.

Thanks. i just hope it dosen't sound like a guy trying to put a roadranger in gear with a wasted clutch brake. I've had to drive plenty of those. i would always start them in gear and just hold the clutch at lights. but some guys don't care and would just shove/ grind it in

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On single disc push type set-ups the adjustment is made through the clutch linkage,

I first asked about adjusting the clutch when i saw the six adjusting nuts on the fingers of the pressure plate. Are these ever adjusted? what are they for? perhaps only when being setup by the clutch shop.

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On these trucks, you just have to push the pedal, count to three, then very gingerly feel your way into gear. I too have heard "drivers" at stop lights grind the life outta first gear trying to force it in. Ugh, they surely prove that they are NOT the ones fixing it when it breaks.

I would guess the screws are for lever height adjustment after rebuiding.

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There is a procedure in the Mack manual I have regarding the initial adjustment of the pressure plate after assembly. Don't remember any of the deatils.

Some of these single-disc clutches also used the "wear shims" to space the pressure plate out when new, and which could be removed to compensate when the disc worn down some. Don't know if yours used them or not. But, if it does, it would probably be a good idea to put them in there.

There is also a procedure for setting the cam on the mechanical clutch linkage on the old B models, if I recall correctly. There seemed to be a couple of different settings for the cam, based on exactly which clutch was in there. Again, don't know what clutch or linkage you have.

I'll try to find some of this info, take pictures of the text, and post them here. Maybe it will help...maybe not.

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Thoses six adjusting screws is to adjust the clutch when its rebuilt. But if anytime your under there and you see the ring that is attached to the end of the finders is not straight that means one finder is out of adjustment with the others.It should not be that way but some times it happens.So you can adjust the screws to set the end of the finders same height so the ring will track straight. This will stop some of the grinding when you try the release clutch.If one finder is low it lets part of the pressure plate drag the clutch plat so get then all adjusted same height.They are not for taking care of clutch disc wear.The single plate clutch did not use wear shims between the pressure plate and flywheel but the two plate did.

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Remember the special tool for setting the fingers Glenn?

Used to have one, long gone now!

There used to be two different length eye bolts in the pressure plate too!

If the rebuilt pressure plate assembly had the longer eye bolts in it you had to make sure the clutch housing where the cross shaft went through was modified.

(Flattened with a grinder to make more clearance)

If you didn't the ends of the bolts would hit the clutch housing when the clutch was disengaged.

Ron

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Thoses six adjusting screws is to adjust the clutch when its rebuilt. But if anytime your under there and you see the ring that is attached to the end of the finders is not straight that means one finder is out of adjustment with the others.It should not be that way but some times it happens.So you can adjust the screws to set the end of the finders same height so the ring will track straight. This will stop some of the grinding when you try the release clutch.If one finder is low it lets part of the pressure plate drag the clutch plat so get then all adjusted same height.They are not for taking care of clutch disc wear.The single plate clutch did not use wear shims between the pressure plate and flywheel but the two plate did.

Yeah, I believe you are correct. It was the dual-disc that had the shims.

See if you can read this...

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Ron I don't remember and may have never did know that.I do remember a long wrench we used and have adjusted the pressure plate many times when you found the ring was not tracking straight.

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